Author Topic: Bolts in Oil Pan (Read 7131 times)

Alpine003 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 06, 2007, 12:14:18 PM »

Quote from: 91318isguy;29128

You mean the last part when the military guy laid it down and slid under the robot? I thought that looked like a GSXR.

\

Nope. It's an Aprilia. You can clearly see the decal on the lower side of the bike.

91318isguy · « **Reply #16 on:** July 06, 2007, 12:19:04 PM »

Ah, my bad. Got to get to work now.

gearheadE30 · « **Reply #17 on:** July 07, 2007, 08:37:50 PM »

Random thing I just learned. Output bearings on the diff commonly go bad and make a bit of noise. The only real way to tell is to look at the diff. If one side is covered with more crap than the other, with a significant difference, this may be the case.

91318isguy · « **Reply #18 on:** July 09, 2007, 08:20:52 AM »

My diff, CV's and shafts are all clean. It seems like either there is no fluid (just kidding, I'm going to swap in fresh fluid in a few days before I start driving it) or the previous owner took really good care of it.

gearheadE30 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 09, 2007, 06:52:29 PM »

Just dropped the lower pan-no bolts in the pan, and none of them were remotely close to loose. I think my engine may have had work on it-it has helicoils in the head, among other things-and these may have been tightened then.

sheepdog · « **Reply #20 on:** July 09, 2007, 07:45:07 PM »

Quote from: gearheadE30;29312

Just dropped the lower pan-no bolts in the pan, and none of them were remotely close to loose. I think my engine may have had work on it-it has helicoils in the head, among other things-and these may have been tightened then.

Most likely a Profile gasket victim.
You also may have had a mechanic do the work who knew what he was doing.

Shocker · « **Reply #21 on:** July 09, 2007, 08:53:43 PM »

Quote from: sheepdog;29319

Most likely a Profile gasket victim.
You also may have had a mechanic do the work who knew what he was doing.

Same thing happened to my car with the heilcoils except I had to put them in for my valve cover because the dumb ass that took it off last stripped out every thread of every bolt in the head for the valve cover. And the previous owner had all work done at there local BMW Dealer (Hacks). PITA

gearheadE30 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 10, 2007, 08:58:26 AM »

Quote

Most likely a Profile gasket victim.

This is pretty much what I was thinking, as it had new gaskets, tensioner, chain, and other small things replaced, and it looks like it was done right.

The profile gasket must have been done at some point, as my car has a march, 1990 build date.

Something else I have recently discovered-my car doesn't have central locking. I guess some early american cars didn't have it, after all.

sheepdog · « **Reply #23 on:** July 10, 2007, 12:24:32 PM »

Quote from: Shocker;29326

Same thing happened to my car with the heilcoils except I had to put them in for my valve cover because the dumb ass that took it off last stripped out every thread of every bolt in the head for the valve cover. And the previous owner had all work done at there local BMW Dealer (Hacks). PITA

Those strip VERY easy.
In fact anything into aluminum on these engines strip easy.

Torque wrench everything or kiss it goodbye.

91318isguy · « **Reply #24 on:** July 11, 2007, 11:04:16 AM »

Speaking of torque wrenches Sheepdog... do you know on the nuts to the subframe from the control arm, if I'm using the 3/8 18" extension, how much torque loss there is. It calls for 62 ft lbs. Would there be much loss, where I would have to adjust it higher due to being a distance away?

sheepdog · « **Reply #25 on:** July 11, 2007, 03:46:02 PM »

Quote from: 91318isguy;29425

Speaking of torque wrenches Sheepdog... do you know on the nuts to the subframe from the control arm, if I'm using the 3/8 18" extension, how much torque loss there is. It calls for 62 ft lbs. Would there be much loss, where I would have to adjust it higher due to being a distance away?

Problem is, it changes based on the amount of torque you are applying as well as the length.

I once saw a formula for it, but I have no idea where it is. Personally I would torque to spec +5 or 10% and if I did not think it was enough add a bit more based on calibrated elbow. 5-10 is within tolerance for the connection so it should be safe as far as stripping it, and should with any luck be tight enough to stay tight.

I would re-check it after a few days as well.

I looked around on the net but everyone either wants to sell you software to tell you, or they have some complicated bundle of hoops to jump through to figure it out.