I know I know, this is one of those things that seems like it will never become available, and yet it will never go away. However, thanks to some correspondence with Bosch the converter has been bumped to version 5.2 due to some re-mapping.
Mildly-Related ContentFirst, my odd check engine light mystery seems to have gone away. Not that anyone else really cares, but I am happy because now I may not need to replace my WBO2 sensor. Talk about an odd issue. The fault code was always 1222 (bad EGO sensor), and it came on when:
- Car started cold and I hit the main road. After ~10 seconds at constant speed, CEL popped up. Letting off the throttle, or flooring it made it go away. It kept coming on until it warmed up enough. Mileage was super crappy until CEL stopped coming on.
- Any time I rev the motor over 4500RPM it came on as soon as I let off the throttle. Blipping throttle made CEL go away. The car jerked a little as I came back on to part-throttle before the light went away.
- If I drove the car really hard it came on and stayed on. The clue there was the LC-1 tossing a Sensor Over-Heated error at me. Lean running suspicions arose...
So, if you experience these issues, and nothing seems to help, your AFM may be pooping out.
I replaced every vacuum hose on the motor because of this, but to no avail. I was pretty stumped, and about to resign myself to buying a new LSU4.2 EGO sensor.
Related ContentThen I got some "official" data for the MAF sensor, and it turns out that my previous (experimentally determined) curves were ~5% leaner than the Bosch data would have made them. This is more than enough to cause leaning issues.
In a couple hours I will be hooking up my custom data logger and going out for a few runs after traffic subsides. In the morning, the second critical test will be executed: highway mileage. I had at one point tried artificially enriching the mixture to solve the issues around 2500RPM which helped, but dropped my mileage. So far, the power band in there seems a little better and my mileage needle seems to be good still.
So, we shall see. Damn, I am the world's biggest MAF conversion tease (sorry guys).
Next Steps, Pending LoggingThe next hurdle is figuring out the best way to get the MAF to fit on customers' cars cheaply and PROPERLY. I am torn between two options.
1) The first is machining copies of the custom adapter I currently have that fits in the stock air box top (which you need to chop up a little).
2) The second is having tooling made for a thermoformed plastic replacement air box top. Thermoforming is so unbelievably cheap when it comes to tooling (compared to injection molding anyway) thanks to my GF working in the industry and having connections in China. I just need to see about the availability of high-temp plastics and the cost of this relatively large/deep tool. I still need to devise a way to securely attach the velocity stack, but at least customers won't have to hack up their air box (only an issue at smog check time).
Of course, those who wish to use an open element filter don't need to worry about this, but without a heat shield they are going to lose power.
Last BitsAs far as the wiring harnesses,
I need a little help. I got the VW part numbers for all the connector bodies and pins from someone who is no longer an active member here. It turns out that the terminals that go in the body were not the proper ones. I got them to work, but I wouldn't sell something like it.
Does anyone know which terminals go with VW connector body 1J0-973-775-A? Thanks.
The price for the converter and hardware is targeted at $200 (NOT including a MAF sensor). This may change depending on the availability of parts and wiring harness labor costs, but I think it is reasonable. The MAF sensor is maybe $150 new, and
http://www.car-part.com has them for sale anywhere from $50 to $300 used.
I AM working on sourcing an M44 MAF, but finding BMW connector bodies is proving to be a real pain. That is the big hold-back with the M44 MAF right now. Anyone have some tips?