11
Engine + Driveline / Re: Drive shafts 318is e30
« Last post by 318ise30 on October 08, 2024, 01:01:05 PM »up up 
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12
Electrical / Problema Alarma BMW/ encendido
« Last post by Chema GB on October 07, 2024, 10:35:13 AM »Hi everyone!
The other day I was finishing fixing some things in my 318IS and I connected the battery that I had removed to work.
Whenever I disconnect the battery, when I reconnect it, the alarm goes off and I can't figure out how to stop it, sometimes by locking or unlocking the doors and sometimes it just stops.
The question is that when I wanted to insert the key to start the engine there was a tab that did not allow me to insert the key.
After manoeuvring for a while I managed to get it in, but when I turned the ignition on, the dashboard wouldn't light up and it wouldn't let me turn the key any more to start the engine. It doesn't work with the battery disconnected either.
My question is: Does the alarm have some kind of immobiliser? I know that the original BMW alarm cuts the injection, but I don't know if it has a locking system for the cylinder, as the key has a light or infrared (I have disassembled it and it is a light attached to a battery without a motherboard).
The battery works correctly at 12V and on the other hand I have the driver's door lock broken and I don't use it, which is the one that triggers the alarm.
Thanks for your help.
The other day I was finishing fixing some things in my 318IS and I connected the battery that I had removed to work.
Whenever I disconnect the battery, when I reconnect it, the alarm goes off and I can't figure out how to stop it, sometimes by locking or unlocking the doors and sometimes it just stops.
The question is that when I wanted to insert the key to start the engine there was a tab that did not allow me to insert the key.
After manoeuvring for a while I managed to get it in, but when I turned the ignition on, the dashboard wouldn't light up and it wouldn't let me turn the key any more to start the engine. It doesn't work with the battery disconnected either.
My question is: Does the alarm have some kind of immobiliser? I know that the original BMW alarm cuts the injection, but I don't know if it has a locking system for the cylinder, as the key has a light or infrared (I have disassembled it and it is a light attached to a battery without a motherboard).
The battery works correctly at 12V and on the other hand I have the driver's door lock broken and I don't use it, which is the one that triggers the alarm.
Thanks for your help.
13
Electrical / Re: Temp Gauge HELL
« Last post by RatchRoyal on October 06, 2024, 02:47:17 PM »Thanks dudes.
It can only really be the wiring between sensor and gauge and that’s a pretty simple path.
One thing I noticed is there was no sign of a C191 plug.
The junction box under the manifold (unique to M42) goes straight up to the bulkhead look.
Is this correct there’s no C191??
It can only really be the wiring between sensor and gauge and that’s a pretty simple path.
One thing I noticed is there was no sign of a C191 plug.
The junction box under the manifold (unique to M42) goes straight up to the bulkhead look.
Is this correct there’s no C191??
14
Electrical / Re: Temp Gauge HELL
« Last post by keflaman on October 06, 2024, 02:39:49 PM »I honestly don't know why this forum hasn't followed suite and faded off into the great unknown like many in the past. It was probably the best and most mature on the internet in its day. Anyway...
First thing everyone checks is to make sure the the instrument panel nut to the gauge is tight. You've tried three different IPs, so that's out of the equation.
Make sure you're connectors aren't crossed and installed correctly (refer to attachment).
Is your engine ground strap to frame in good condition?
Do a continuity check on the wire from the sensor to the gauge.
Open another tab and type in "temp gauge and m42club.com" for other ideas and suggestions.
Good luck and don't give up!
First thing everyone checks is to make sure the the instrument panel nut to the gauge is tight. You've tried three different IPs, so that's out of the equation.
Make sure you're connectors aren't crossed and installed correctly (refer to attachment).
Is your engine ground strap to frame in good condition?
Do a continuity check on the wire from the sensor to the gauge.
Open another tab and type in "temp gauge and m42club.com" for other ideas and suggestions.
Good luck and don't give up!
15
Electrical / Re: Temp Gauge HELL
« Last post by RatchRoyal on September 30, 2024, 04:44:05 PM »Could REALLY use some help gang...
16
Electrical / Temp Gauge HELL
« Last post by RatchRoyal on September 29, 2024, 06:58:09 PM »Hi all.
So my coolant gauge does not work. The car does not overheat as I just did a load of maintenance on it and all runs well, bled well, heat from the dash etc. When I turn on the ignition, all the gauges jump to life as normal as does the temp gauge and sits the bottom of BLUE ready to rise - so I assume it is getting voltage. But no matter how long I run the car, it does not budge one bit. Here is what I've tried:
New coolant sensor - NOTHING
Tightened nut on back of gauge - NOTHING
Grounded Pin 4 of C101 Plug - NOTHING
Grounded Coolant Temp Connector Pin - NOTHING
Tried three different clusters - NOTHING
I looked for the infamous C191 plug when I had the intake manifold off but there was no sign of one? The temp sensor runs to the nearby junction box under the manifold where all sensors and injector wiring join which is sealed and looked spotless - the guess straight up into the bulkhead via a thickly ribbed sleeve. In any case, Grounding Pin 4 of the C101 would eliminate an issue there.
Does anyone have ANY ideas? I cannot really drive it without a working temp gauge, even if it is running just fine.
So my coolant gauge does not work. The car does not overheat as I just did a load of maintenance on it and all runs well, bled well, heat from the dash etc. When I turn on the ignition, all the gauges jump to life as normal as does the temp gauge and sits the bottom of BLUE ready to rise - so I assume it is getting voltage. But no matter how long I run the car, it does not budge one bit. Here is what I've tried:
New coolant sensor - NOTHING
Tightened nut on back of gauge - NOTHING
Grounded Pin 4 of C101 Plug - NOTHING
Grounded Coolant Temp Connector Pin - NOTHING
Tried three different clusters - NOTHING
I looked for the infamous C191 plug when I had the intake manifold off but there was no sign of one? The temp sensor runs to the nearby junction box under the manifold where all sensors and injector wiring join which is sealed and looked spotless - the guess straight up into the bulkhead via a thickly ribbed sleeve. In any case, Grounding Pin 4 of the C101 would eliminate an issue there.
Does anyone have ANY ideas? I cannot really drive it without a working temp gauge, even if it is running just fine.
17
Engine management / Rear spring mtech
« Last post by 318ise30 on September 14, 2024, 11:09:02 AM »Hello everyone
Does anyone by chance know what the height of the original rear springs on Mtech chassis is please? Or if it’s -20 -30 etc.
Thank you so much !
Does anyone by chance know what the height of the original rear springs on Mtech chassis is please? Or if it’s -20 -30 etc.
Thank you so much !
18
Engine management / Re: M42 noise
« Last post by 318ise30 on September 14, 2024, 11:08:00 AM »Hello everyone
Does anyone by chance know what the height of the original rear springs on Mtech chassis is please? Or if it’s -20 -30 etc.
Thank you so much !
Does anyone by chance know what the height of the original rear springs on Mtech chassis is please? Or if it’s -20 -30 etc.
Thank you so much !
19
Engine + Driveline / Mysterios gasket in the valve cover
« Last post by Eduardsxd on August 21, 2024, 05:05:25 PM »Hello!
Currently working on swapping a E36 M42 in an E30 touring.
Took of the valve cover, to clean.
In the valve cover there are two metal plates. One with some kind of oil jets and the other one blank.
The one with the jets has some kindof gasket, there is a part number on it "11121739608" but there is no info on google or in realoem.
Anyone know what they are?
Attached is a picture, i can take more tomorrow is necessary.
Thanks!
Currently working on swapping a E36 M42 in an E30 touring.
Took of the valve cover, to clean.
In the valve cover there are two metal plates. One with some kind of oil jets and the other one blank.
The one with the jets has some kindof gasket, there is a part number on it "11121739608" but there is no info on google or in realoem.
Anyone know what they are?
Attached is a picture, i can take more tomorrow is necessary.
Thanks!
20
Engine + Driveline / Re: Endemic starting chain noise
« Last post by DesktopDave on August 06, 2024, 01:54:42 AM »I'd guess (and hope) you just have a few stuck lifters, based on that video. The early M42 was pretty infamous for that, in fact it continues to be a BMW problem, I replaced a bunch in my N52! I'd be tempted to try a slightly thinner oil to see if that helped with the problem. Mike.bmw notes a similar problem in this thread. Either Shell Rotella T6 5w40 or Liqui Moly Lifter Additive might have done the trick. I've used Rotella T6 myself and will certainly vouch for its quality. Liqui (Lubro) Moly makes all sorts of wonderful stuff as well.
I'm not sure what your build date is, and I don't want to make you worry, but the early M42 motors also have some known problems with the cam idler pulley bearing. Usually the bearing will fail, but in severe cases the mounting boss can be torn off the inner cam chain housing case.Here's a good example of that failed idler bearing from bmwman91. The later M42 (and M44) were upgraded by BMW with a deflection rail to solve the problem. Check out this build thread at GRM. I think that was around late '92 build dates? If you have the early E30 motor, I'd check that bearing & idler gear immediately, with an endoscopic camera or likewise.
I'm not sure what your build date is, and I don't want to make you worry, but the early M42 motors also have some known problems with the cam idler pulley bearing. Usually the bearing will fail, but in severe cases the mounting boss can be torn off the inner cam chain housing case.Here's a good example of that failed idler bearing from bmwman91. The later M42 (and M44) were upgraded by BMW with a deflection rail to solve the problem. Check out this build thread at GRM. I think that was around late '92 build dates? If you have the early E30 motor, I'd check that bearing & idler gear immediately, with an endoscopic camera or likewise.