Messages

1

General Topics / Need photo of hard brakeline routing

« on: June 08, 2014, 04:46:17 PM »

It's been a while since my car was in operational status.  I labeled all of the hard brake lines during disassembly but a couple of the labels smeared and I'm having a hard time figuring out which ones go where.  What I'm mostly looking for is photos of the hard lines that mount on the engine bay side of the driver's wheel well, between the ABS unit and the firewall.  I believe there's 4 or so hardlines from the ABS unit as well as 2 from the cylinder and I want to make sure the right ones go in the right spot.

Thanks,

Micah

2

How-To's / Re: how to(with pictures): de-power, disassemble, ects.. 318is steering rack

« on: June 08, 2014, 04:36:01 PM »

You can see in these photos, the "enemy seal" (as noted in photos 7 and 8 of the flyingmiata post) was ground off and removed.  The first 2 photos show the top and bottom of the seal to be removed to help anyone get an idea of what they're working with.  I used a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut the seal ring off on either side of the shaft.  I went just far enough to cut through most of the seal but not enough to cut into the shaft.  I then pried it apart with a large flathead screwdriver. 

The third photo shows what the shaft looks like when you pull it out of the housing after removing the stop ring.  As you can see, it looks a little different than photo 7 of the flyingmiata post.

I set the removed seal into place in the fourth photo just to show what it looks like when you pull the shaft out and remove the large cylinder before cutting off the seal.

I removed all of the tubing on the outside of the housing and will be installing bolts with the same thread/pitch to just plug the holes since they aren't needed anymore.

The dissasembly and reassembly was pretty straight forward.  Just make sure you have some way capture that stop ring during dissasembly, otherwise there were no surprises when following the flyingmiata post.

3

How-To's / Re: how to(with pictures): de-power, disassemble, ects.. 318is steering rack

« on: June 08, 2014, 04:19:54 PM »

I just depowered my e36 steering rack using the flyingmiata link posted by desktopdave above.  It's very similar to ours.  I took a handful of photos during the process and thought I would share for those that are interested.  It took me about 3 hours but that included 1.5 hrs of emptying a corner of the garage after the stop ring (photo 6 on the flyingmiata directions) shot out of the end of the housing .  I had to completely empty the one corner of the garage just to find the stupid ring, but I did find it!

The first 3 photos (attached in this post are the rack in exploded diagram mode.  I did mess up the layout a little bit in the first pic - the component to right of the housing actually goes on the top, below the snap ring on the pinion shaft.  I also don't have the seal ring in the photo that comes out of the left end of the housing from behind the stop ring (will be in the next group of photos).

4

WTB/WTT / WTB: L & R Output shafts

« on: May 14, 2014, 12:24:39 AM »

I'm looking for decent shape output shafts for my '91 318is.  I'd prefer ones with good boots/bellows.  Located in 98072.

Thanks,
Micah

5

Engine + Driveline / Re: Plastic Coolan Pipe install help

« on: May 05, 2014, 08:29:27 PM »

Thanks for the tips.  Yes, it is a genuine BMW part and the intake manifold is off (I would hate to try to mess with it with the manifold in-place with my fat fingers).  Upon closer inspection, there is a fair bit of corrosion on the block where the pipe goes.  I'll be taking some sand paper to it and some sil-glyde lube to the o-ring and hope it slips in.

Thanks again.  Hopefully I'll have the motor back in the car in the not too distant future.  I think these cars are more enjoyable behind the wheel rather than in the garage in pieces, but it's been so long I can't remember. 

6

Engine + Driveline / Plastic Coolan Pipe install help

« on: May 04, 2014, 10:34:32 PM »

Is there some sort of trick for getting the plastic coolant pipe installed into the head?  I'm in the middle of addressing the mess under the intake but can't seem to get the plastic pipe into place.  I was wondering if I need to remove the oil filter housing (but was hoping not to) to gain access to that side of the plastic flange on the coolant pipe.  I tried setting it into the hole and tapping on a very large flat head screwdriver with a hammer, but am afraid I'll crack the flange on my new coolant pipe.

Thanks,

Micah

7

Engine + Driveline / Re: water pump bolt lenght?

« on: April 27, 2014, 03:37:13 AM »

Heli-Coil is not exactly a middle shelf item, sorry to assume you were not aware of them.

1mm off sounds like you did a decent job, I've done worse on virgin metal due to a bad drill bit. You can always bore out the water pump side to compensate.

It's most likely the plastic ended up in the heater core or some crevice in the motor. I heard their is a bolt to drain the coolant somewhere on the block, can anyone verify this, it would be a possible place to check for bits and built up gunk.

I actually found out about the heli-coils from my stand-up jet-ski days.  The annoying part is they don't come with middle of the shelf pricing either, but they've saved my butt a few times in the past.  They are handy and a pretty good system as long as you can get the tapered black plastic piece up to the block or whatever you're inserting the heli-coil into.

There does appear to be a little bit of meat around the bolt hole in the water pump.  We'll have to see if it'll cooperate and slip on or if some extra boring is necessary.

I figure/hope all or at least enough the plastic pieces are out now.  It didn't overheat when I drove the car home from Portland to Seattle and they were all in there then (unknown to me).  A drain plug of sorts would be nice insurance though, I'll have to search around for that.

Are you talking about #3 in the picture?  If so it's 20mm.

That looks like it's the bolt.  I'm probably around that depth with the heli-coil installed - kind of figured if I can get full depth into a heli-coil it should be fine.  I was just hoping it wasn't as long as #4 in the picture, but that's a much bigger bolt.

Thanks everyone,

Micah

8

Engine + Driveline / Re: water pump bolt lenght?

« on: April 25, 2014, 01:14:36 PM »

Heli-coil works great (already used 10 on the valve cover) and it's the same M6x1.0 as nearly all the rest bolts on this block.  But I have to get the broken shaft of the bolt out first in order to insert the heli-coil.  That's why I was trying to figure out the original bolt length so I don't overdrill.  I actually drilled it out last night, although a little off center thanks to the soft aluminum of the block and inserted a heli-coil.  I'll find out this weekend if I have any alignment issues for re-bolting the water pump back on, but it's at most 1 mm over (I think it will stretch...).

What's weird is when I pulled the old water pump the blades were intact but there were several plastic pieces floating around inside.  Must have been from a previously destroyed water pump.  Hopefully I was able to flush them all out.

9

Engine + Driveline / water pump bolt lenght?

« on: April 24, 2014, 05:20:19 PM »

I'm trying to figure out how long the lower right bolt (when looking at the pump & motor from the front) is that holds the pump in place.  It was nice enough to shear off when I removed the old pump and I'm not sure how far to drill it out.  I tried using an easy-out bit with no luck.  Now I have to figure out how to fill the hole and re-tap it, while keeping it properly centered, so I can secure the water pump. Any suggestions?  The motor is currently out of the car on a cherry picker so acces is pretty easy.

Thanks,
Micah

10

Suspension / Re: How to eliminate ABS

« on: April 08, 2014, 04:08:26 PM »

Thanks for the replies.

Check of you have the 3-port master cylinder. Two of the ports are used on our cars; just remove the blocking bolt and run non-ABS hard lines (like from an '84 318i).

If you don't have the three-port master, I'd look for a slightly larger cast iron 3-port master cylinder (E23/24/28?). I prefer cast iron, they're safer to rebuild.

Your solution sounds pretty straight forward, looks like I have the three-port master.  Just to verify, I can just take the bolt out that points down from the hard brake line directly below the reservoir and go from there (see attached photo if it lets me post it)?  Now I'm on the hunt for the non-ABS hard lines...

Thanks again.

11

Suspension / How to eliminate ABS

« on: March 01, 2014, 02:05:51 AM »

I'm finally getting back to working on my 318is after neglecting it for mos of the winter to work on my other commitments.  I'm building this car with it's primary use being track days with the BMW CCA and other local clubs and some autocrossing while remaining street legal to be driven to the track (at least for now).  I talked with a couple of my track instructors last season who are also PRO3 guys about the e30 ABS system and it was suggested that I eliminate it.  I've never been a big fan of ABS (or similar aides e.g. power steering) when used on the track.  My first couple years of track experience was without ABS and I've also had a couple with - I prefer without.

With the above being said, I'd like to point out that this thread is not the discussion of weather or not to remove it or keep it.  I've decided I want to eliminate the ABS system and will accomplish that.  I would appreciate any contribution to assist me in this endeavor rather than trying to change my mind or give me examples, reasons, etc. to do otherwise.  It's been discussed in depth before and I've done plenty of research before making this decision. 

My problem is that I'm having difficulty finding the information needed to make this a fully functional, clean and stock appearance operation.  I'm pretty mechanically inclined but prefer to have all my "ducks in a row" before commencing on a project.  My question to you all is what parts do I need to source from other cars/models, what do I remove/modify from mine, etc.?  Of course this will be inspected and tested (as required by the club) by a professional mechanic prior to use on the street or track.  I have a very reliable local mechanic who always double checks my work prior to use to reduce that portion of risk associated with such projects.  I just don't like paying someone for the research and fabrication time that I can perform myself.

I already have the engine bay completely stripped (engine, tranny, all accessories and mounts, etc.) thanks to some work that needed to be done thanks to a negligent previous owner.  The ABS module and computers/sensors have been removed.  I would like to mount a brake bias valve inside for adjustment.  I also have a front UUC BBK that will be installed as it was never installed on a previous e30 I used to have.

I've done some searches on this board as well as the other e30 boards and haven't had any luck finding anything clearly outlining this procedure yet.  Any information or insight would be greatly appreciated and I would be more than happy to provide a writeup once the procedure is completed on my car for the use of the community.

Thanks

P.S. It's an alpine white '91 318is slicktop

12

For Sale / supersprint cat back ...e30 m42

« on: February 07, 2013, 04:54:08 PM »

In post #15 the op says it's sold. The last activity was in 2010, I'm pretty sure he doesn't have it to ship anymore.

13

General Topics / Brake Master Cylinder: Replace it or not?

« on: November 24, 2012, 02:16:56 PM »

I'm in the process of doing a complete refresh on my '91 318is and am hopefully putting together one of my last parts orders. I'm wondering what the consensus is regarding reusing or replacing the brake master cylinder.  I didn't drive the car all that long before tearing it apart to begin repairing/rebuilding, but never had any problems or fluid leakage with the original braking system.  I am installing an UUC front big brake kit and replacing nearly every other component of the braking system (front and rear), with the exception of the hard lines and abs unit.  

I like new components with new fluid, but $300+ for one item is a bit steep if it's unnecessary.  On the other hand, I would rather do it right the first time and save myself the work in the future if it's something I'll have to replace anyways.

I don't know the current mileage as the odometer was nonworking when I purchased the car (I believe 130k plus, but can't remember off the top of my head).

If it makes any difference I will be using the car for daily driving, autox and a handful of track days each year and hope to see forced induction under the hood within a year or two.

Thanks,

Micah

14

For Sale / UUC DSSR and E36 M3 lever

« on: August 23, 2012, 12:57:37 AM »

Is this still available?

15

General Topics / Engine pick points

« on: August 07, 2012, 10:45:56 PM »

Excellent, thanks.