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Suspension / Struts out?
« on: June 06, 2008, 05:21:40 PM »
The rubber on the front is 195/50/R15 as well.
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Suspension / Struts out?
« on: June 06, 2008, 11:17:49 AM »
Well I got some new 15 inch wheels on today, and the passenger side looks reasonably centred in the wheel arch, the driver side is way too close to the front guard, and rubs slightly at turn on the inside of the wheel arch near the brake vent. There is 50mm between tyre and rear of wheel arch on passenger side, but about 90mm on driver side. The driver side tyre also just clears the strut, but it could possibly rub under some load. It has progressive springs in the front and Bilstein sports. The only other thing replaced with these was the upper mounts. No CABs or sway bushings as they all looked really good and still do. The strut towers do not appear to be cracked, but I could be mistaken. Any other ideas, could the strut assembly be put back together wrong? Any help would be great.
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Member Profiles / Whitey
« on: October 13, 2007, 03:01:12 AM »
Hello All,
Well I have been a member for quite a while, and figure it is about time to introduce my 318is. I picked up an Alpineweiss, 1990 model with all factory options in original condition March this year. The car had 123K kms on it and was straight and running well. Since then only a couple of changes, timing tensioner, water pump, thermostat, dropped lower oil pan (3 loose bolts), replaced leaking valve cover seal, roundels replaced, K and N panel filter, Mark D chip. Interior is fantastic, entered it in NSW BMW Club show and shine recently and not expecting anything, it came second in 1990-1995 class. Only beaten by an E30 M3 in prestine condition. It really is a fine example of an E30 and I feel fortunate to own it. Anyways I look forward to learning more about this car through this fantastic site and hopefully will be able to contribute also.
Thanks.
Well I have been a member for quite a while, and figure it is about time to introduce my 318is. I picked up an Alpineweiss, 1990 model with all factory options in original condition March this year. The car had 123K kms on it and was straight and running well. Since then only a couple of changes, timing tensioner, water pump, thermostat, dropped lower oil pan (3 loose bolts), replaced leaking valve cover seal, roundels replaced, K and N panel filter, Mark D chip. Interior is fantastic, entered it in NSW BMW Club show and shine recently and not expecting anything, it came second in 1990-1995 class. Only beaten by an E30 M3 in prestine condition. It really is a fine example of an E30 and I feel fortunate to own it. Anyways I look forward to learning more about this car through this fantastic site and hopefully will be able to contribute also.
Thanks.
4
Engine + Driveline / Coolant Issues
« on: October 10, 2007, 03:01:25 AM »
Fortunately that thing is long gone. Over 450K clicks on original engine. Is now spending its retirement in sunny Queensland where nearly everything is registerable. Wasn't worth a picture even tho it was a VR with senator kit and wheels. Definitely glad to be on the move again, thanks everyone.
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Engine + Driveline / Coolant Issues
« on: October 09, 2007, 04:31:18 AM »
All solved thanks to a fellow members specialist BMW know how. Well there is a real trick, and a lot of coolant involved in bleeding the systems. Somewhat different to an old Commodore! Many thanks Cristian.
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Engine + Driveline / Coolant Issues
« on: October 09, 2007, 12:13:35 AM »
mate sent you a message. Lost your number, otherwise i would have given you a call earlier. Thanks for the offer, I would really appreciate it.
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Engine + Driveline / Coolant Issues
« on: October 08, 2007, 07:47:06 AM »
Appreciate the response. I tried the suggestion. Filled radiator from top hose, then filled into thermostat housing with motor running. I still believe it or not only get steam from bleed screw. I removed it completely and still did not get any further. The lower hose to radiator does not seem to have any fluid in it, when I squeeze it just get another spurt of steam from bleed valve. There is no heat from vents either (surprise). I do get a gurgling from expansion tank once the engine is cut out.
The thermostat is in correctly, arrow pointing up and in the right way. I do not really want to pull it out again as that may spell the end of life for the gasket. Other than that I do not really know what to do. I must have put 10 litres of coolant into it, half of which have been spat back out the top of expansion tank (and 20 beers into me- driving me to the drink!). Any help greatly appreciated.
The thermostat is in correctly, arrow pointing up and in the right way. I do not really want to pull it out again as that may spell the end of life for the gasket. Other than that I do not really know what to do. I must have put 10 litres of coolant into it, half of which have been spat back out the top of expansion tank (and 20 beers into me- driving me to the drink!). Any help greatly appreciated.
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Engine + Driveline / Coolant Issues
« on: October 07, 2007, 05:23:26 PM »
So as we are entering summer n the southern hemisphere, I decided to replace the thermostat and water pump as the pump was giving the engine a unique sound. Replaced both, and everythig went together well. However I am having issues bleeding the system. I cant get any coolant to return to the radiator. The only difference btw this pump and old one is that the new one does not have a plastic impeller. Took it for a drive, and it overheated. I only get steam from bleed valve.
Came home, pulled out new tstat and checked it, operates fine. Put it back together. Pulled off water pump- i suspect this more, looks fine, matches the old item dimensionally etc. The only gasket I got with new pump was an o-ring, correct? I will put the old pump back in tonight and see what happens.
Any help would be great, as this is a daily driver and now I am on the bus:(
Thanks everyone.
Came home, pulled out new tstat and checked it, operates fine. Put it back together. Pulled off water pump- i suspect this more, looks fine, matches the old item dimensionally etc. The only gasket I got with new pump was an o-ring, correct? I will put the old pump back in tonight and see what happens.
Any help would be great, as this is a daily driver and now I am on the bus:(
Thanks everyone.
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Vendors / GB / On the list
« on: July 03, 2007, 08:09:12 AM »
Lucky I caught the end of this one! Chip ordered and paid for. Any additional help with the discount would be appreciated by those thinking about it;)
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Electrical / Another way of getting ECU codes?
« on: April 11, 2007, 08:27:52 AM »
Sorry misread. Had a guy show me this before on previous car, and I only remember the 1444 code. 
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Electrical / Another way of getting ECU codes?
« on: April 09, 2007, 03:56:47 AM »
I used to be able to check the fault codes using the blink code system on a previous E30. With the ignition switch on and the engine not running press the accelerator pedal to the floor 5 times in less than 5 seconds. The check engine light stays on for 5 seconds then begins flashing the first fault code. the light flashes once for one, twice for two, etc. There is a 3 second gap between digits. There are four numbers for each fault code, and you need a sheet to determine what the codes apply to. Once the whole code has been displayed the light will stay on for 3 seconds before moving to the next fault code (if any). if the first code is 1444, it means there are no faults stored. Not sure if this works on 318is I haven't tried it yet.:confused:
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