1
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Holy grail?
« on: July 03, 2012, 11:16:38 PM »
Why bother with a BMW s42 crank when you could get an equally good crank made by skat cranks for $1500.
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
2
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / M42 to S42?
« on: April 17, 2012, 09:48:33 PM »
It is not an impossible dream but will require money, skill and knowledge. To really replicate the S42 you would want to go for a lot of custom stuff, crank, lifter tray, yad yad.
The biggest issues is the cfm of the M42 head. You really want about 220cfm -240cfm but the best I have seen is 170cfm. I don't know what the S42 cfm was but I can bet there was some serious reshaping involved.
One thing I think everyone seems to not point out is the cooling passage for the S42. Water would go in through the front of the head, down through the pump, around the cylinders, up the exhaust side of the head, over the exhaust valves, over the intake valves and out the side of the head from 3 holes.
This is the usually way race engines work, as it has better cooling path and reduces hot spots allowing more timing advance. This is a good start that most DIY people can do, that all miss.
Home DIY with time, effort and knowledge should be able to get 260hp from the crank from a 2.1lt build.
The biggest issues is the cfm of the M42 head. You really want about 220cfm -240cfm but the best I have seen is 170cfm. I don't know what the S42 cfm was but I can bet there was some serious reshaping involved.
One thing I think everyone seems to not point out is the cooling passage for the S42. Water would go in through the front of the head, down through the pump, around the cylinders, up the exhaust side of the head, over the exhaust valves, over the intake valves and out the side of the head from 3 holes.
This is the usually way race engines work, as it has better cooling path and reduces hot spots allowing more timing advance. This is a good start that most DIY people can do, that all miss.
Home DIY with time, effort and knowledge should be able to get 260hp from the crank from a 2.1lt build.
3
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / M42 Turbo setup
« on: September 05, 2011, 10:07:36 PM »
Anyways that is just some food for thought will save you lots of cash, the last person I heard of buying a M47 crank spent over $1000 just on the crank. From what I understand is that the key slot from the timing chain sprocket needs to be cut out and I believe one of the cranks is to long I think. Metric Mechanic dose a 2.1lt stroker of the M42 where they use a M47 crank they also tell you what they do to it you can read it here.
http://www.metricmechanic.com/pdfs/metric-mechanic-m42-and-m44-engine-booklet.pdf
Secondly don't make the ports smooth that is a big mis-understanding. As the fuel runs down the port it hits the port walls where it sticks, and when it is smooth it dosn't re-atomize, therefore reducing efficiency. When the ports are ruff the fuel re-atomizes which is what you want.
As for a turbo a stock wrx turbo should be good they make around 300hp and that is where you will probably be.
http://www.metricmechanic.com/pdfs/metric-mechanic-m42-and-m44-engine-booklet.pdf
Secondly don't make the ports smooth that is a big mis-understanding. As the fuel runs down the port it hits the port walls where it sticks, and when it is smooth it dosn't re-atomize, therefore reducing efficiency. When the ports are ruff the fuel re-atomizes which is what you want.
As for a turbo a stock wrx turbo should be good they make around 300hp and that is where you will probably be.
4
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / M42 race engine
« on: August 31, 2011, 06:22:09 PM »Quote from: romkasponka;106469
Forget 9000 without dry sump, I wouldn't recommend more than 8500.
Yes I already thought of that how I will link to together is another story but I am sure it can be done. Though will be a long term engine build due to the high $$$ envolved.
5
General Topics / Engine Oil Surprise!
« on: August 29, 2011, 01:24:18 AM »
I use mobil 0-50w or 40w what ever it is but I have heard of people using Diesel oil in lots of different cars I don't think you will have a problem.
6
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / M42 race engine
« on: August 28, 2011, 10:34:39 PM »
Interesting build pretty much what I hope to do in a few more years. I would estimate your engine outputting about 260-270hp on the basis that you will have around 15hp/rpm/L which should be a reasonable number considering the s42 had 18hp/rpm/L and the stock M42 has about 12hp/rpm/L.
Anyways I see that you want to run possibly 87.5mm pistons that seems ambitious, that is below 4mm of thickness between cylinders. Even manufactures of wet sleeves don't recommend or make walls thinner then 4mm and I am sure modern wet sleeves are stronger then M42 walls. I would like to know what your thoughts are on this.
What hardware are you running on the bearing caps? ARP? Do you see the need of strengthening the caps e.g. bearing cap cradle? I ask this because I want to build mine up on the stock crank and 86mm custom pistons but want to run it up to 9000 possibly 9500rpm.
Well none the less this is a great build and can't wait to see the end results. If you are ever in Adelaide with the car drop me a pm ill need to check it out.
Anyways I see that you want to run possibly 87.5mm pistons that seems ambitious, that is below 4mm of thickness between cylinders. Even manufactures of wet sleeves don't recommend or make walls thinner then 4mm and I am sure modern wet sleeves are stronger then M42 walls. I would like to know what your thoughts are on this.
What hardware are you running on the bearing caps? ARP? Do you see the need of strengthening the caps e.g. bearing cap cradle? I ask this because I want to build mine up on the stock crank and 86mm custom pistons but want to run it up to 9000 possibly 9500rpm.
Well none the less this is a great build and can't wait to see the end results. If you are ever in Adelaide with the car drop me a pm ill need to check it out.
7
General Topics / 91 318is build.
« on: January 16, 2011, 08:52:27 PM »
Sweet build.
Just want to know how you cleaned the block surface. I am in the process of replaing the head gasket and although my surface is smooth it dose not look clean like yours did?
Just want to know how you cleaned the block surface. I am in the process of replaing the head gasket and although my surface is smooth it dose not look clean like yours did?
8
General Topics / ITB vacuum lines
« on: January 04, 2011, 07:48:29 PM »
How are you setting up your ITB's as in do they connect to a intake manifold or do you just have the trumpets to atmosphere?
If you are running them with a intake manifold then you should just need to tap into the area around the intake near the filter and run your vacuum lines from that, someone correct me if I am wrong.
If you do not have the manifold then this a bit more involved you will need to install an after market engine management like mega squirt and run a MAP sensor. This way you do away with the ICV and vacuum hoses.
This is how I understand it works but if someone could please confirm this that would be great.
Hope this helps a bit.
If you are running them with a intake manifold then you should just need to tap into the area around the intake near the filter and run your vacuum lines from that, someone correct me if I am wrong.
If you do not have the manifold then this a bit more involved you will need to install an after market engine management like mega squirt and run a MAP sensor. This way you do away with the ICV and vacuum hoses.
This is how I understand it works but if someone could please confirm this that would be great.
Hope this helps a bit.
9
For Sale / The Ultimate COP FS Thread
« on: December 12, 2010, 09:46:14 PM »
Just placed my order. Currently in the process of head gasket replacement and noticed the sprak plug wires are shot. Can't wait to get these baby's in!!!
Cheers guys.
Cheers guys.
10
Engine + Driveline / Motor Mounts
« on: November 24, 2010, 10:44:52 PM »
I don't know if the m20 motor mounts fit but I do believe that the e28 motor mounts fit the m42. I would not know about the tranny though.
Cheers
Cheers
11
Engine + Driveline / VW hydro lifters?
« on: November 24, 2010, 06:40:58 PM »
Sweet thanks guys. Ill order them from the same people you did they are alot cheaper then the BMW lifters. Sweet build by the way I hope in the not so distant future ill will be able to do something like that.
Cheers Guys
Massimo
Cheers Guys
Massimo
12
Engine + Driveline / VW hydro lifters?
« on: November 23, 2010, 07:45:26 PM »
So the head gasket has gone on my E30 m42 and I have orded a head gasket kit and head bolts and what not. Anyways the lifters tick as well so i want to replace them.
I have read that I can put VW lifters with the part number 050 109309 in they are suposed to be lighter. So I put this part number into pelican parts and it gave me Hydraulic Valve Lifter - Volkswagen / Audi brand INA. So that is all good my question is.
First has anybody done this and is there any modifications required or is it a strait drop in? If it is have they had any issue arise later?
Second has anybody done this with the pelican parts lifters?
Cheers Guys
Oh just thought of one other question. I am not shore if the head will need to be decked. If it dose do I need to get a thicker head gasket or will the standard be fine, I do a have a chip on the car and I run with 98 octane pump fuel?
I have read that I can put VW lifters with the part number 050 109309 in they are suposed to be lighter. So I put this part number into pelican parts and it gave me Hydraulic Valve Lifter - Volkswagen / Audi brand INA. So that is all good my question is.
First has anybody done this and is there any modifications required or is it a strait drop in? If it is have they had any issue arise later?
Second has anybody done this with the pelican parts lifters?
Cheers Guys
Oh just thought of one other question. I am not shore if the head will need to be decked. If it dose do I need to get a thicker head gasket or will the standard be fine, I do a have a chip on the car and I run with 98 octane pump fuel?
13
Engine + Driveline / M42 rebuild and upgrade help
« on: September 13, 2010, 05:42:52 PM »
Cheers guys added your input. I also Added Vac Stage 2 Head depending on the shipping cost it could be cheaper as they also inclued most of the machine work in the cost.
14
Engine + Driveline / M42 rebuild and upgrade help
« on: September 13, 2010, 02:15:31 AM »
UPDATE 14/19/10
I have posted this on R3V want optinins from you guys as well.
As the title states I am thinking of rebuilding the M42.
Reason: Well over the weekend while I was looking inside her, I noticed a water leek from an odd spot (on the air conditioner compressor). Anyways upon further inspection it seems to be coming from the head gasket . It’s a very small leek, but one none the less.
So if I am going to replace the head gasket I might as well do a performance rebuild.
Experience: Well non this will be my first ever engine rebuild I am confident, in my skills and hope I have read enough to do a good job. This is also part of the reason I am posting here. I have devised a list of parts I need and the machine work I will get done. I know what the prices are for the parts and was wondering if anyone could give estimates on the machine work required that I have listed.
Goals: Well I would like keep the price under $5000 and hopefully achieve 180hp without any real bottom end modifications beside 360Degree Thrust Bearings and oversized pistons, focusing more on the head.
Anyways here is the list
Metric Mechanic
-Rod Bearings $60
-Main Bearing 360Degree Thrust $120
Total From Metric Mechanic = $180
Vac Motorsport
-Titanium Valve Retainers $289.95
-Hardened Valve Locks $71.20
-1mm Over Sized Stainless Steel Valves $479.95
-Duel High Performance Valve Springs $447.95
-Vac 269/269 Cams $949.95
-ARP Main Stud Kit $149.95
Total Option 1 From Vac Motorsport = $2334.95
Possable Option 2
-Stage 2 Cylinder Head $1399.95
-Vac 269/269 Cams $949.95
-ARP Main Stud Kit $149.95
Total Option 2 From Vac Motorsport = $2499.95
Pelican Parts
-Head Gasket Set $106.75
-Hydraulic Lifters $276
-Chain Tensioner $39.75
-Timing Chain $56.25
-E28 Motor Mounts $44
-Bottom End Gasket Set $65.50
-Oil Pressure Relief Valve $10.75
-Cam Sprocket x2 $108.00
-Crank Shaft Sprocket $67.25
-Deflection Wheel Sprocket $145.00
Total From Pelican Parts = $909.35
Bav Auto
-Oversized Pistons $439.95
Total From Bav Auto = $439.95
Total Option 1 Cost of Parts = $3864.25
Total Option 1 Cost of Parts AUD = $4293.61
Total Option 2 Cost of Parts = $4029.25
Total Option 2 Cost of Parts AUD = $4476.95
So this dose not leave me with much room for machine work so I am just going to list the things I want done and if anyone can put an estimate to the cost that would be good. Then I can review my parts and see where I could save a bit.
Block
-Crank Shaft Alignment Honing
-Decking Surface
-Hone Cylinders
Head
-Deck Surface
-Increase port and valve seal size to suit new valves
Crank
-Probable fix spun main bearing journal
-Chrome journals
There will also be inspection for cracks and repairs but that is an unforeseen problem which I can not list and will just have to see what happens there.
So that is what I have come up with so far. The car has done 190,000km so I am hope there will not be any major problems but you never know.
As you may have already noticed I have not really done much with the timing components, when I last looking at the cam gears and chain it looked in very good condition, so I am hoping that the guides will be in good condition. But if there any evidence of problems then they will be replaced.
I would like peoples comments and any help with what I have listed, also an estimate on the cost of the machine work would be a great help.
Cheers Massimo
PS I should add i am going to try my hand at replicating the Metric Mechanic Pulse Chamber.
I have posted this on R3V want optinins from you guys as well.
As the title states I am thinking of rebuilding the M42.
Reason: Well over the weekend while I was looking inside her, I noticed a water leek from an odd spot (on the air conditioner compressor). Anyways upon further inspection it seems to be coming from the head gasket . It’s a very small leek, but one none the less.
So if I am going to replace the head gasket I might as well do a performance rebuild.
Experience: Well non this will be my first ever engine rebuild I am confident, in my skills and hope I have read enough to do a good job. This is also part of the reason I am posting here. I have devised a list of parts I need and the machine work I will get done. I know what the prices are for the parts and was wondering if anyone could give estimates on the machine work required that I have listed.
Goals: Well I would like keep the price under $5000 and hopefully achieve 180hp without any real bottom end modifications beside 360Degree Thrust Bearings and oversized pistons, focusing more on the head.
Anyways here is the list
Metric Mechanic
-Rod Bearings $60
-Main Bearing 360Degree Thrust $120
Total From Metric Mechanic = $180
Vac Motorsport
-Titanium Valve Retainers $289.95
-Hardened Valve Locks $71.20
-1mm Over Sized Stainless Steel Valves $479.95
-Duel High Performance Valve Springs $447.95
-Vac 269/269 Cams $949.95
-ARP Main Stud Kit $149.95
Total Option 1 From Vac Motorsport = $2334.95
Possable Option 2
-Stage 2 Cylinder Head $1399.95
-Vac 269/269 Cams $949.95
-ARP Main Stud Kit $149.95
Total Option 2 From Vac Motorsport = $2499.95
Pelican Parts
-Head Gasket Set $106.75
-Hydraulic Lifters $276
-Chain Tensioner $39.75
-Timing Chain $56.25
-E28 Motor Mounts $44
-Bottom End Gasket Set $65.50
-Oil Pressure Relief Valve $10.75
-Cam Sprocket x2 $108.00
-Crank Shaft Sprocket $67.25
-Deflection Wheel Sprocket $145.00
Total From Pelican Parts = $909.35
Bav Auto
-Oversized Pistons $439.95
Total From Bav Auto = $439.95
Total Option 1 Cost of Parts = $3864.25
Total Option 1 Cost of Parts AUD = $4293.61
Total Option 2 Cost of Parts = $4029.25
Total Option 2 Cost of Parts AUD = $4476.95
So this dose not leave me with much room for machine work so I am just going to list the things I want done and if anyone can put an estimate to the cost that would be good. Then I can review my parts and see where I could save a bit.
Block
-Crank Shaft Alignment Honing
-Decking Surface
-Hone Cylinders
Head
-Deck Surface
-Increase port and valve seal size to suit new valves
Crank
-Probable fix spun main bearing journal
-Chrome journals
There will also be inspection for cracks and repairs but that is an unforeseen problem which I can not list and will just have to see what happens there.
So that is what I have come up with so far. The car has done 190,000km so I am hope there will not be any major problems but you never know.
As you may have already noticed I have not really done much with the timing components, when I last looking at the cam gears and chain it looked in very good condition, so I am hoping that the guides will be in good condition. But if there any evidence of problems then they will be replaced.
I would like peoples comments and any help with what I have listed, also an estimate on the cost of the machine work would be a great help.
Cheers Massimo
PS I should add i am going to try my hand at replicating the Metric Mechanic Pulse Chamber.
15
For Sale / M47 diesel 2.0 crank for sale
« on: July 07, 2010, 11:39:54 PM »
Dam if only you sold this in a few more months. I would be all over the whole package.