Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Rear Wheel Bearing Feedback

« on: February 09, 2013, 10:00:26 AM »

replace the wheel bearing.

2

Exterior / Can anyone tell me what these are?

« on: January 06, 2013, 09:16:10 PM »

They are just LTW Replicas.  They were a stock BMW e36 M3 wheel that came on the lightweight edition.  Those would be replicas that they made in 15" and 16".  I do not know the company.  Most likely 15x7 with and ET of 35 or so

3

Engine + Driveline / Newbie and problems

« on: July 17, 2012, 09:37:25 PM »

I would open it up and check things out but if it is truly locked it will most likely be mor economical to just get another m42 and replace it.  I bought an m42 and g240 with 150k miles for $300 and sold my old m42 and g240 that made hella crank shaft clakity clak noises for $230.  These engines are out there for cheap, just got to look for a while.

4

Engine + Driveline / New to M42s and have a small issue

« on: July 11, 2012, 07:21:03 AM »

Mine used to do that, except I would have to rev it above 3k.  Do the stomp test.

My issue ended up being a bad afm

5

For Sale / FS: M42 Parts Sale In Charleston

« on: July 03, 2012, 05:36:11 PM »

I saw someone asked about the valve cover and upper intake mani but the list doesn't say its sold.  Still available?

6

Electrical / Still chasing an electrical issue

« on: June 27, 2012, 12:43:36 PM »

You guys are genius'.  I got in the car this morning and turned the key....nothing.  Got out to check the ground strap as you guys suggested.  Motor mount bolt holding the strap on was less than finger tight.  Got out a 13 mm wrench and cranked it a couple times.  Car cranked right up and its running better than it ever has.  I can't believe I didn't notice this earlier.  The temp gauge is spot on.  The idle is better and it accelerates through the power band much more smoothly.  It seems to have more power.  It's like a new car.

7

Electrical / Still chasing an electrical issue

« on: June 26, 2012, 05:59:59 PM »

I've got a 318is that I have been working on. I'm trying to chase down an electrical issue.

I swapped to stock m42 for a lower milage m42 out of a vert. I used the original engine harness and accessories.

The issue seems like a weak connection somewhere. The car is running well with a solid idle but when I drive it, it will intermitently do some crazy stuff. The temp gauge will peg on hot and the engine will have less power. I can floor it and let off the pedal a couple of times and the gauge will go back to normal and it will run fine again.

I am not 100% of this correlation but it seems that if I turn the car off while its in "limp" mode with the temp gauge pegged, when I go to turn it back on I get nothing. The radio and stuff will turn on but the car wont crank, not so much as a starter click. But then I can put the car in gear and roll it dumping the clutch to spin the motor over and then it will crank up. I have had success with this a few times but I am not 100% that it works everytime.

So it seems to me like something is coming disconnected or connected when it shouldn't be and shaking the drive train one way or another seems to giggle it back to the way it should be.

Anyone have an experience with this phenomenon? Any ideas on how to track it down or what it could be?

8

M42 Reference / Coolant Temp Sensor Part #'s

« on: June 11, 2012, 11:46:09 PM »

So I got back in the car today and started trying to figure some more things out.  First thing I figured out was that I have been thinking the stomp test was showing a 1223 code when it is really showing a 1224 code.  So I did some research and thought that meant my AFM was bad.

I pulled the afm cap off and it's track seemed pretty worn so I tweaked the slider contact loop a bit so it ran in a new track.  This helped the cars sputtering issues somewhat but it still had a couple of sputtering and bucking spells a couple times during the mile long test drive.  It was definitely better though.  I now realize that the 1224 refers to the actual air temp sensor in the AFM so I will check that out when I get back to the car on wednesday.  Does anyone know what value this is supposed to read and if 5 and 4 are the right pins to check this with?

My temp needle is still bouncing all over the place every now and then settling down to what I believe to be the correct reading.  Today it went from properly functioning to hot in a second and my dad said it sounded like a click up front happened as it did it.  Almost like a relay clicking.  I checked out the battery cables because of that and because my brand new battery won't stay charged unless I drive the car everyday.  I found that my positive battery cable is grounding out.  I undid the started and alternator and it is still grounding out.  What is the best way to find where it is grounding?

Thanks in advance.  I am hoping this grounding issue will help solve some of my electrical woes.

9

M42 Reference / Coolant Temp Sensor Part #'s

« on: June 06, 2012, 12:02:45 AM »

I do get a flickering CEL.  I can't remember what the code was when I did the stomp test but it was for the CTS according to something I found on the net.  I tried to test the sensors with my Ohm meter but didn't have any conclusive luck.  

What is the process to test them?  I think I'm gonna pull off my intake, go through the vacuum system once again, and check the harness for bare wires.

10

M42 Reference / Coolant Temp Sensor Part #'s

« on: June 05, 2012, 12:25:54 PM »

I hear what you are saying and I am not certain that it isn't a vacuum issue as I did a modified version of the mess under the intake mod and I don't completely trust it.  However, when the car is cold and I first crank it, the thing runs fairly smoothly.  Then when it gets warmed up its like it stops getting fuel and wants to die

11

For Sale / FS: Complete (almost) M42 engine for parts

« on: June 04, 2012, 11:47:42 AM »

Do you still have all the sensors.  I would like them for troubleshooting purposes.  Coolant temp sensors (both of them), crank sensor, TPS.  Let me know what you still have.

Thanks

12

M42 Reference / Coolant Temp Sensor Part #'s

« on: June 04, 2012, 11:17:38 AM »

I am going to replace my coolant temp sensor because my gauge started going crazy and shortly after the car started running like crap.  The car is not over heating and has been properly bled so it's got to be something to do with the sensors.

I assume I need the sensor that sends signal to the DME.  I believe this is the one toward the front of the engine under the intake.  If this is wrong please correct me.

Could someone tell me the proper part number for that sensor and where you think is a good place to order one from.  I searched realOEM.com but couldn't find it.

Thanks in advance,

Clay

13

M42 Reference / Anyone want to know their car's birthday?

« on: May 13, 2012, 09:39:02 PM »

Mine was born in April of 1990

14

Interior / Fixing Dashboard Cracks - My Method

« on: May 07, 2012, 12:35:01 AM »

I've also be told that the flocking stuff will start to rub off and get everywhere.  Was told to expect no more than a year or two out of.  I personally have no experience with it.

15

Interior / Fixing Dashboard Cracks - My Method

« on: May 06, 2012, 01:50:01 PM »

so i've been told, the majority of them are.