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How-To's / DIY Fuel Pump Replacement
« on: April 20, 2011, 10:30:14 PM »
Follow up: put 1-1/2 hours run time on today with a 10 amp fuse. Ran fine. I'm happy.
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2
How-To's / DIY Fuel Pump Replacement
« on: April 19, 2011, 05:32:24 PM »
First off: big thank you for all the information and pictures – BIG help !!
After swapping in a TRE pump, my #11 (7.5 amp) pump fuse consistently fails.
At first – fuse would fail after ~60 seconds.
After cleaning/replacing connections at fuel pump – and cleaning ground point behind rear seat, fuse would fail after 20-30 minutes (some improvement)
I contacted Nick North of TRE – and was informed that the pump typically draws between 10-12 amps.
I’m going to try a 10 amp fuse – if it works, great – otherwise I really don’t want to jump up more than 5 amps on factory wiring. Can’t find anyone that makes a 12A mini spade fuse – which would be ideal. Installing a 15 will be my last, LAST resort..
Couldn’t get a hose clamp on assembly – it wouldn’t fit in tank opening – reluctantly used a zip tie.
Also – I contacted Nick regarding supplied fuel line being submersible – he assured me it was (fwiw).
After swapping in a TRE pump, my #11 (7.5 amp) pump fuse consistently fails.
At first – fuse would fail after ~60 seconds.
After cleaning/replacing connections at fuel pump – and cleaning ground point behind rear seat, fuse would fail after 20-30 minutes (some improvement)
I contacted Nick North of TRE – and was informed that the pump typically draws between 10-12 amps.
I’m going to try a 10 amp fuse – if it works, great – otherwise I really don’t want to jump up more than 5 amps on factory wiring. Can’t find anyone that makes a 12A mini spade fuse – which would be ideal. Installing a 15 will be my last, LAST resort..
Couldn’t get a hose clamp on assembly – it wouldn’t fit in tank opening – reluctantly used a zip tie.
Also – I contacted Nick regarding supplied fuel line being submersible – he assured me it was (fwiw).
4
Off-topic discussion / changing to manual transmission
« on: February 12, 2010, 12:24:41 AM »
It's definitely been done..
A common plan of attack is to start with a parts car – or strip out everything relevant from junkers at a yard.
Depending on tools/capabilities, it’s generally more time-consuming than it is difficult.
A common plan of attack is to start with a parts car – or strip out everything relevant from junkers at a yard.
Depending on tools/capabilities, it’s generally more time-consuming than it is difficult.
5
Off-topic discussion / Help in the garage (picture)
« on: February 12, 2010, 12:16:49 AM »
That is awesome.
Starting him off right !
Starting him off right !
6
Electrical / Starter wires
« on: February 10, 2010, 12:45:53 AM »
Sorry this isn’t a better picture..
I recall three wires of three different sizes and that they simply attached to a corresponding-sized connection.
(this shot is of an e30/m42 btw)
I recall three wires of three different sizes and that they simply attached to a corresponding-sized connection.
(this shot is of an e30/m42 btw)
7
General Topics / Another e30 318 Saved... **Dial-up = Death**
« on: February 04, 2010, 12:07:09 AM »
Spectacular job !
(I need to be checking this site out more often!)
(I need to be checking this site out more often!)
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Engine + Driveline / UUC DSSR / e30 318is m42 getrag 240 (DSSR273)
« on: November 21, 2009, 02:16:13 PM »Quote from: P. Kennedy
So, if I understand your modification correctly, you removed material from the new UUC DSSR because it was too close to the guibo?yep. DSSR273 is designed for an e39 M5 and is close enough to stock length (~1mm difference). Wish I'd taken better pics of the DSSR187 (m20/260) rod when I had it. One end was machined in a way that allowed for guibo clearance. I mimicked that end on the 273.
9
Engine + Driveline / UUC DSSR / e30 318is m42 getrag 240 (DSSR273)
« on: November 20, 2009, 06:46:19 PM »
This posting is a shout out to Rob Levinson of UUC Motorwerks as well as a review of my experience installing UUC shifting hardware.
Purchased a UUC short-shifter in the late fall of ’03. Turned out the time of purchase time was during an evolutionary time between the EVO2 and EVO3 versions. The part I received had the bottom geometry of the EVO3 and also featured an early version of height-adjustment.
original at top / UUC shifter at bottom:
In late winter of ’08, I learned about the Double-Shear Selector Rods (DSSR) that UUC had developed. I loved its design and thought it’d be a great compliment to the UUC shifter. Due to a misunderstanding on my part, a DSSR187 was ordered. This particular part was designed for an e30 with an m20 motor and 260 trans. I didn’t discover until later that 240s are shorter than 260s.
Because my e30 project was off and on – there were times when I’d slowly gather parts and pull them off the shelf when the time came. It was rare, but sometimes the part would be pulled years later – and only then discovered as an incorrect part. In this case, more then a year had passed before I went to install the DSSR.
Rob was great to work with. I explained what happened and provided measurements of the stock m42/240 selector rod (~275mm). He indicated a possible fit of DSSR273 designed for an e39 m5 model (273mm). Turned out, difference between the two was more like .5 to 1 mm. This was great news.
After some investigation and comparison – I did end up blitzing some material from one side of a connection end. This was done to provide a greater margin of comfort between the selector rod connection point and the flex disk on the drive shaft.
I LOVE the shifting action. Shifting gears is like flicking a switch. Short, without pronounced ‘notchiness’. Noted how much heavier the DSSR rod is over the OE unit – this also added to quality of feel. Literally, bang-on perfection. (All other related linkage parts were also replaced with OEM (bitch clip, rear carrier bushing/mount, and gearshift rod joint)). HUGE, HUGE improvement from the spoon-in-a-bowl-of-porridge-feel that the shift action had when I purchased the car.
Products from UUC are like getting something made by NASA. I’ve spent some time working in a job-shop, and I’m impressed by how beautiful the machine-work is on UUC parts when they arrive. Part of me feels bad that they’re hidden from sight under the shifter boot.
Photo of installed stock selector rod while in fifth gear:
Selector rod comparison shots:
The UUC short shifter uses roller bearings with bushings for smoother action. The thicker pair of bushings on the left are designed for use with stock selector rod. The slimmer pair on the right was provided for use with the DSSR. There was a small amount of wiggle room when I used the slimmer pair. Discovered that using one thick and one slim bushing provided a perfect fit of the DSSR to the shifter.
DSSR hardware:
Trial install:
Positions at reverse (left) and at fifth gear (a little too close):
This picture was taken after removing material from one side/end of selector area for greater clearance from flex disc:
Final install:
Reverse/5th positions:
Before/after view from cabin (in neutral) (no noticeable difference in angle):
Great products and service from UUC. Thanks again Rob !
Purchased a UUC short-shifter in the late fall of ’03. Turned out the time of purchase time was during an evolutionary time between the EVO2 and EVO3 versions. The part I received had the bottom geometry of the EVO3 and also featured an early version of height-adjustment.
original at top / UUC shifter at bottom:
In late winter of ’08, I learned about the Double-Shear Selector Rods (DSSR) that UUC had developed. I loved its design and thought it’d be a great compliment to the UUC shifter. Due to a misunderstanding on my part, a DSSR187 was ordered. This particular part was designed for an e30 with an m20 motor and 260 trans. I didn’t discover until later that 240s are shorter than 260s.
Because my e30 project was off and on – there were times when I’d slowly gather parts and pull them off the shelf when the time came. It was rare, but sometimes the part would be pulled years later – and only then discovered as an incorrect part. In this case, more then a year had passed before I went to install the DSSR.
Rob was great to work with. I explained what happened and provided measurements of the stock m42/240 selector rod (~275mm). He indicated a possible fit of DSSR273 designed for an e39 m5 model (273mm). Turned out, difference between the two was more like .5 to 1 mm. This was great news.
After some investigation and comparison – I did end up blitzing some material from one side of a connection end. This was done to provide a greater margin of comfort between the selector rod connection point and the flex disk on the drive shaft.
I LOVE the shifting action. Shifting gears is like flicking a switch. Short, without pronounced ‘notchiness’. Noted how much heavier the DSSR rod is over the OE unit – this also added to quality of feel. Literally, bang-on perfection. (All other related linkage parts were also replaced with OEM (bitch clip, rear carrier bushing/mount, and gearshift rod joint)). HUGE, HUGE improvement from the spoon-in-a-bowl-of-porridge-feel that the shift action had when I purchased the car.
Products from UUC are like getting something made by NASA. I’ve spent some time working in a job-shop, and I’m impressed by how beautiful the machine-work is on UUC parts when they arrive. Part of me feels bad that they’re hidden from sight under the shifter boot.
Photo of installed stock selector rod while in fifth gear:
Selector rod comparison shots:
The UUC short shifter uses roller bearings with bushings for smoother action. The thicker pair of bushings on the left are designed for use with stock selector rod. The slimmer pair on the right was provided for use with the DSSR. There was a small amount of wiggle room when I used the slimmer pair. Discovered that using one thick and one slim bushing provided a perfect fit of the DSSR to the shifter.
DSSR hardware:
Trial install:
Positions at reverse (left) and at fifth gear (a little too close):
This picture was taken after removing material from one side/end of selector area for greater clearance from flex disc:
Final install:
Reverse/5th positions:
Before/after view from cabin (in neutral) (no noticeable difference in angle):
Great products and service from UUC. Thanks again Rob !
10
Exterior / M3 style mirrors: where to get them?
« on: October 26, 2009, 02:42:42 AM »
wish i'd seen this thread earlier..
I have a set that i'm not using and would sell them in the blink of an eye for $80
I have a set that i'm not using and would sell them in the blink of an eye for $80
11
General Topics / Definitive Cruise control Thread
« on: October 23, 2009, 03:51:08 AM »
well, that was fun..
Examined main wiring harness firewall grommet and noted pre-notched circles for wiring cables.
Pulled that main harness grommet out and removed dime-size circle for the actuator wiring. I removed it by poking the tip of an exact-o knife at different spots in the notched circle. With enough 'pokes through', the thin rubber closing could be pulled away with fingers.
Fed a feeder wire up into the engine compartment.
Tied up the end of the actuator wiring cable and puller her through.
Once it was in the cabin, there's enough maneuverability to get the wiring through the designated hole - and the grommet on the actuator cable fit perfectly.
Yay! Almost done..
Examined main wiring harness firewall grommet and noted pre-notched circles for wiring cables.
Pulled that main harness grommet out and removed dime-size circle for the actuator wiring. I removed it by poking the tip of an exact-o knife at different spots in the notched circle. With enough 'pokes through', the thin rubber closing could be pulled away with fingers.
Fed a feeder wire up into the engine compartment.
Tied up the end of the actuator wiring cable and puller her through.
Once it was in the cabin, there's enough maneuverability to get the wiring through the designated hole - and the grommet on the actuator cable fit perfectly.
Yay! Almost done..
12
General Topics / Definitive Cruise control Thread
« on: October 22, 2009, 06:21:50 PM »
re: routing cruise control actuator wiring from engine bay to cabin
From foot well (inside the car), I see the area where it passes through – but I’m having trouble accessing that area from the engine side.
It looks like removing or pulling aside fuse/relay box would provide access. I’ve removed some screws and fasteners – and it’s loose, but doesn’t come up very far. Wiring from the [passenger] side of the box interferes with the diagnostic plug hosing.
Anyone have tips on how to get that actuator wiring into the foot well?
From foot well (inside the car), I see the area where it passes through – but I’m having trouble accessing that area from the engine side.
It looks like removing or pulling aside fuse/relay box would provide access. I’ve removed some screws and fasteners – and it’s loose, but doesn’t come up very far. Wiring from the [passenger] side of the box interferes with the diagnostic plug hosing.
Anyone have tips on how to get that actuator wiring into the foot well?
13
Vendors / GB / COP Conversion Brackets
« on: January 28, 2008, 05:58:45 PM »
I wish to order a bracket and hardware.
pm sent. (also through r3vlimited)
pm sent. (also through r3vlimited)
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