1
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Dbilas ITB's installed
« on: September 01, 2010, 06:48:38 PM »
Nice work - if you don't mind me asking what did the setup cost and where did you source it?
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2
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Dbilas ITB's installed
« on: August 31, 2010, 12:52:32 PM »
Also, I second - very cool. Can the Dbilas setup run on the stock ecu - ie compatible with throttle position sensor and fuel injection? Also, what is the power like?
3
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Dbilas ITB's installed
« on: August 31, 2010, 12:50:47 PM »
Did you have trouble with the ABS, as it looks like the air intake is right where the control box is located?
4
Electrical / US vs Canada Headlight Wiring
« on: August 24, 2010, 02:35:14 PM »
Thanks for the help.
Damn it - I hate electrical work.
Damn it - I hate electrical work.
5
Electrical / US vs Canada Headlight Wiring
« on: August 23, 2010, 04:36:45 PM »
Basically the low beams are on all the time except when the light switch is at the middle setting.
The goal would be to have no daytime running lights as the default (i.e. US Spec). Right now the daytime lights shut off when the ignition is off - however, if I leave the light switch in the middle setting with just indicators and brake lamps - the lights stay on when the ignition is off.
The headlamps burn out like you wouldn't believe when they are used as running lamps. I routinely change one bulb every 3-4 months. The headlights just weren't designed for continuous daytime use - it was just a last minute job before they changed the whole system out for the E36. As such, I want to return it to the way nature intended.
The goal would be to have no daytime running lights as the default (i.e. US Spec). Right now the daytime lights shut off when the ignition is off - however, if I leave the light switch in the middle setting with just indicators and brake lamps - the lights stay on when the ignition is off.
The headlamps burn out like you wouldn't believe when they are used as running lamps. I routinely change one bulb every 3-4 months. The headlights just weren't designed for continuous daytime use - it was just a last minute job before they changed the whole system out for the E36. As such, I want to return it to the way nature intended.
7
Electrical / US vs Canada Headlight Wiring
« on: August 16, 2010, 01:18:54 PM »
I have a Canadian E30, and in stock condition the low beam lamps are on when the light switch is push all the way in. When its pulled out to the middle setting the headlights go out and only the brake lights and indicator lamps go on. When the switch is pulled all pulled out all the way the headlights and fog lights go on - also, the high beams will only work in this mode.
I have talked to some other Canadian owners and this is the normal setup. I assume that this was a last minute botch job to comply with Canadian running light requirements - what is the setup for the US model - and can I switch it by just swapping out the relay for a US one?
I have talked to some other Canadian owners and this is the normal setup. I assume that this was a last minute botch job to comply with Canadian running light requirements - what is the setup for the US model - and can I switch it by just swapping out the relay for a US one?
8
Suspension / Steering Rack Differences
« on: July 30, 2010, 11:24:16 AM »
Just a note on rebuilding - I thought I was up to the job - got the rebuild kit - even bought a cheap wrecker rack so that I wouldn't risk being stranded. Anyway, taking the rack apart is a fiddly job that you really need precision tools to do correctly. The problem is that by messing around with the rack on your garage floor or shop table you are going to inevitably hit, scratch or scuff the main rack piston - especially around the tie rods. If your scratch it, the rack is toast and will leak.
What's the point - you spend $80 on a new seal kit and the rack leaks again? I have had no luck with factory rebuilds either - my last one was good for 18 months and then gave up the ghost ($600 down the drain). The reality is that the OEM rack is garbage.
Now I just run it old school - no power steering.
Anyway to get the e36 rack to fit you need spacers on the mounting point and you need to make a frankenstein u-joint for the steering column (part e30, part e36). Zionsville sells it as a kit - http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/screen/prod/store_code/6134/product_code/E30SRC.htm
What's the point - you spend $80 on a new seal kit and the rack leaks again? I have had no luck with factory rebuilds either - my last one was good for 18 months and then gave up the ghost ($600 down the drain). The reality is that the OEM rack is garbage.
Now I just run it old school - no power steering.
Anyway to get the e36 rack to fit you need spacers on the mounting point and you need to make a frankenstein u-joint for the steering column (part e30, part e36). Zionsville sells it as a kit - http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/screen/prod/store_code/6134/product_code/E30SRC.htm
9
Suspension / rear suspension ?'s
« on: July 30, 2010, 11:02:22 AM »
Also, as a first check I assume you have looked at your differential bushing - no one ever seems to replace them even though it is fairly easy.
10
Suspension / rear suspension ?'s
« on: July 30, 2010, 11:00:42 AM »
Strange symptoms, but the wayward/floating rear end is a typically cause by worn subframe bushings. This could also cause alignment issues, but is doubtful. Also, on the rear alignment, you are aware of course that there is no way to adjust or change the alignment on the rear wheels other than to install eccentric bushings in the trailing arm (part#33329058822). It is also possible that someone tried to install the eccentric bushings in the past and made a hash of it, it is also possible that the car was hit, or smoked a curb in the past causing the rear end to go way out of spec.
In any event, I would highly doubt that the above can be fixed on your garage floor and needs to be done in a shop. I had my rear end completely redone with new trailing arm and subframe bushings - it is a cow of a job and takes a good mechanic all day - budget $1k provided there is no damage to the subframe.
In any event, I would highly doubt that the above can be fixed on your garage floor and needs to be done in a shop. I had my rear end completely redone with new trailing arm and subframe bushings - it is a cow of a job and takes a good mechanic all day - budget $1k provided there is no damage to the subframe.
11
Suspension / Sway Bar Factory Upgrade
« on: June 17, 2010, 11:48:41 AM »
I don't want to overstate the effects - it is only a modest upgrade with factory parts - but I have really noticed the difference. It has tightened up the front and back end and keeps the nose and wheels planted while reducing the typical body roll.
12
Suspension / Sway Bar Factory Upgrade
« on: June 14, 2010, 11:59:42 AM »
Success - 2 weeks from idea to reality. I now have a better than stock setup with all factory parts. 21mm in the front 14.5mm in the rear and it is noticeably stiffer. They whole thing cost me $150 including both sway bars plus new factory bushings from BMW.
Here are some notes on the installation.
Installation of the rear bar is difficult and can take a long time just beause it is so fiddly. The bar is unbolted, bushings and links removed (don't bother trying to leave the links on, they get in the way when removing. Go nuts on penetrating lube and everything just goes that much easier (just don't overspray onto your brakes). After that - unbolt the passenger side rear shock absorber and then work the sway bar out the passenger side wheel well. It will come out without the diff needing to be dropped.
Assembly is the same in reverse - don't put the links on beforehand. Despite suggestions to use dish soap to get the links back on, I couldn't make it work. Use a thin pentrating lube and then wash it off with some citrus engine cleaner and lots of water later.
The front sway bar comes out much easier than the rear. All you do is unbolt the sway bar connections and then unbolt one of the control arm lolipops - the sway bar will slide right out the back. One main note on the installation. Triple check the direction of the new bushings before installation. They are directional and have arrows - also, BMW seems to have changed or updated the stock sway bar bushing. Previous they had a single cute down the middle which made them easy to get on/off. The new 21mm bushings were not cut and have to be worked onto the sway bay with some grease (its a bit of a pain, especially if you put them on backwards).
Lastly, the factory metal mounts are a bad design utilizing a sort of latch and bolt connection. I have taken them off a few times and reassembly has always been fiddly - so budget an extra 15-20 minutes of swearing and messing around on each side. Also, maybe invest in a new set of mount bolts - one of mine snapped on reinstall. Just remember - don't use hardware store stainless - they have no strength and will fail - ask for the high strength bolts or better yet go to BMW. It may cost you 3-4 bucks for 2 bolts and 2 nuts - but who wants their sway bar to fall off on a hard corner.
Here are some notes on the installation.
Installation of the rear bar is difficult and can take a long time just beause it is so fiddly. The bar is unbolted, bushings and links removed (don't bother trying to leave the links on, they get in the way when removing. Go nuts on penetrating lube and everything just goes that much easier (just don't overspray onto your brakes). After that - unbolt the passenger side rear shock absorber and then work the sway bar out the passenger side wheel well. It will come out without the diff needing to be dropped.
Assembly is the same in reverse - don't put the links on beforehand. Despite suggestions to use dish soap to get the links back on, I couldn't make it work. Use a thin pentrating lube and then wash it off with some citrus engine cleaner and lots of water later.
The front sway bar comes out much easier than the rear. All you do is unbolt the sway bar connections and then unbolt one of the control arm lolipops - the sway bar will slide right out the back. One main note on the installation. Triple check the direction of the new bushings before installation. They are directional and have arrows - also, BMW seems to have changed or updated the stock sway bar bushing. Previous they had a single cute down the middle which made them easy to get on/off. The new 21mm bushings were not cut and have to be worked onto the sway bay with some grease (its a bit of a pain, especially if you put them on backwards).
Lastly, the factory metal mounts are a bad design utilizing a sort of latch and bolt connection. I have taken them off a few times and reassembly has always been fiddly - so budget an extra 15-20 minutes of swearing and messing around on each side. Also, maybe invest in a new set of mount bolts - one of mine snapped on reinstall. Just remember - don't use hardware store stainless - they have no strength and will fail - ask for the high strength bolts or better yet go to BMW. It may cost you 3-4 bucks for 2 bolts and 2 nuts - but who wants their sway bar to fall off on a hard corner.
13
Suspension / Bilstein HDs with M3 Springs
« on: June 14, 2010, 11:33:47 AM »
Nice - 12 1/4" and 8"
Thanks for the photos - this should help alot.
Thanks for the photos - this should help alot.
14
Suspension / Bilstein HDs with M3 Springs
« on: June 11, 2010, 10:27:03 AM »
Out of curiosity, has anyone ever compared the stock m-tech springs that were available as an option of the 318is compared to either the standard springs or M3 springs. I always assumed that the m-tech suspension was just pulled off the M3 but the part numbers don't match up.
Just curious if the m-techs are lower...
Just curious if the m-techs are lower...
15
Electrical / Weird Ventilation Fan Problem
« on: June 08, 2010, 02:45:39 PM »
Haven't pulled it apart yet - was hoping to get some ideas first.