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Messages - DZick

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1
General Topics / Considering an S2K engine swap
« on: April 17, 2008, 06:20:05 PM »
Good luck finding an s42, and if you do, good luck finding parts to rebuild it every few months if it is a DD. An s14 is also not the best DD out there.
 
After saying that, go s50b32, they should be easy to find over there. 321hp, smooth 6cyl, Dual Vanos, and still BMW.

2
Suspension / Strange Front end Knock? Help
« on: April 16, 2008, 09:52:17 PM »
Check the CSB, i had the loud banging when i stopped and started.
 
But if it is still there after you get above 10-15mph, it is prolly not the CSB. But if you are down there you might as well atleast take a look.
 
Edit: didnt read the rest of the thread

3
Suspension / 2 inch drop
« on: April 16, 2008, 09:48:23 PM »
Ya, i am running 450F/750R on Koni SA (w/ F&R Top Adjustable :D)
 
And it is harsh....

4
Engine + Driveline / Flywheel Chatter?
« on: April 16, 2008, 09:45:21 PM »
All M42s do

5
Site and club discussion / No longer qualified to be a M42club member?
« on: March 19, 2008, 12:45:39 PM »
Wow Jordan, great work!
 
Sounds sick as HELL, now i cannot wait to find the S50/2

6
Engine + Driveline / Differential should spin smoothly?
« on: March 01, 2008, 04:11:26 PM »
Mine did....

7
Engine + Driveline / How to loosen crank bolt with engine on a stand?
« on: March 01, 2008, 03:58:52 PM »
There is a pin hole that locks the Flywheel... and also sets the engine to TDC.
 
Just shove a BFScrewdriver in there and go at it! I beleive the hole is covered by a yellow cap that you just pull off.

8
Suspension / 2 inch drop
« on: March 01, 2008, 03:52:24 PM »
Coilovers are the only way to get real Low

9
Suspension / Adjustable front camber plates
« on: March 01, 2008, 03:51:24 PM »
Vorschlag > all

10
Electrical / Why is this stalling?
« on: January 31, 2008, 08:56:39 PM »
Do you have a CAI or open element filter? if so put your stock air box back on, i had the same problem you most likley arent getting enough vacumm pressure

11
Engine + Driveline / exhaust system fitment/
« on: January 31, 2008, 08:47:35 PM »
If you are lust looking for a cheap replacement get a Dynomax super turbo and some steel tubing. cost you about 75 bucks in total

12
Engine + Driveline / Fan Mod Delete
« on: January 31, 2008, 08:43:55 PM »
This is the best picture i have of mine....

 
I have it hard wired to a switch in the car so i can leave it on at the track w/o my car on

13
Quote from: gjuuu;41724
I found that I had to slot the top two holes in the subframe by approx 5mm.
You can sort of see the difference in this photo - I tried to highlight the difference the best I could.

This could be for numerous reasons - my car is a 1991 and the diff is from a really early e30.
But having said that it was no big deal - just frustrating as the bolts just wouldn't line up no matter what I tried :(

Same

14
Engine + Driveline / Do I need gasket sealant to reinstall lower pan?
« on: January 31, 2008, 08:35:35 PM »
I agree with sheepdog, he had it happen to him and also saw it happen to me
 
My car was babied (didnt see past 5k) its whole life. I made it to 120,xxx and my timing chain tensioner went out. When that happened i skipped time and went approx 180 out, broke the guide rails, etc. I Couldnt even start it, after 2 months of working on it (when i had time) i finally got it i guess you could say "running"..........
 
well to make a long a little story short when i skipped time a valve hit a piston and bent it... not much i still have approx 130 compression, but with all of the cranking and trying to get it running I starved the engine of oil and now i have a terrrrrible knock and cannot hold oil pressure.... i am now done with the m42, and i will be taking it out this spring.
 
I guess there is one good thing to come out of it... three letters... s50
 
Words of advice
 
DONT LET A $45 EASY FIX COST YOU ~$600 ON NEW PARTS JUST TO FIND OUT YOUR ENGINE IS TOAST

15
Engine + Driveline / Propshaft centre bearing question
« on: January 31, 2008, 08:22:09 PM »
Pull the CSB back so that there is tension on the bearing making it not want to move all around.
 
Sorry Kind of hard to explain
 
Basically
1. Grab the metal piece that connects to the rubber (after it is already reinstalled under the car and the only thing left to do is connect the 2 screws.
2. Pull back approx 2-3in
3. lock it down tight
 
You just dont want the drive shaft to be able to move up and down alot while spinning (tears aparth the rubber peice and is the reason for replacement). When you pull back on it it stretches the rubber and the DS cannot bounce around

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