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Messages - dasfrogger

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1
For Sale / Re: Liquidating some M42 stuff
« on: October 26, 2014, 07:29:09 PM »
Figured I'd toss some parts up on here to fund an upcoming E24 project. All are best offer plus shipping. I accept PayPay and will consider trades. Here's a link to my current CL ad with more details.

M42 E30 specific parts:
Brand new KW "Suspension Techniques" lowering springs, 1.5" drop. $125/BO. These were the gray ones sold on eBay a while back. (Offer pending)


Still have the Springs?

2
Sending email now on the tensioner

3
Member Profiles / Re: DasFrogger
« on: September 08, 2014, 09:42:42 PM »
over the holiday weekend i broke down and swapped out the old O2 sensor with a new unit from autozone. 77 bucks later and the idle smoothed out pretty well with the AC on (big improvement) and a little bit with the AC off. If anything i'm hoping for an extra MPG or two from the repair.

This past weekend I changed the oil, bled brakes and clutch, and replaced fuel injectors with Mustang 19# units. I had been having problems shifting from neutral to first intermittently when the transmission was cold and figured the first step would be to bleed the system. hooked up the magic bav auto pressure bleeder and went to town. got a lot of air out of the system and flushed some nasty nasty fluid. Shifts a bit better now from N to 1, but still not what it's supposed to be. I'll probably do a trans fluid flush sometime soon for the peace of mind and then will do shifter bushing (and probably guibo and trans rear seal while I'm in there)

I'd been dragging my feet on having my injectors cleaned, but i finally got them sent out and carved out some time to do the swap. I'm glad i did, i'd just had the injectors out a few thousand miles ago when i did mess under the intake and they were super nasty again. I'm not sure if it's placebo or just the fact that the injectors are fresh and clean, but i feel like the car has a little more power down low than it used to. Driving in 1st/2nd in my parking garage (or other low speed situation) is a lot more comfortable too -doesn't seem like the engine struggles anymore. All in all it's a pretty cheap mod and i'd recommend doing it if you want a project or if you're doing mess under the intake and are in there anyway. I used MEPEH from R3V to do mine and it only cost 20 bucks for the service...super deal. Link to his thread is below.





So still trying to chase the idle issue. At this point i'm thinking timing. still need to pop the valve cover gasket off to inspect. Part of the issues is how the exhaust rattles, and at this point i'm almost wondering if the idle isn't actually that bad and the exhaust rattle is amplifying the problem. 



Injectors cleaning service: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=266477&highlight=injector+cleaning

4
Member Profiles / Re: DasFrogger
« on: July 23, 2014, 10:54:16 AM »
Small update - still chasing the idle issue.

Swapped ecu last night with no success. No change when removing fuel pressure regulator, idle control valve, or both. No change in idle quality by adjusting idle speed screw either. At this point it's gotta be injectors, coils/wires, or timing/cam issue.

Does anyone know how long it takes an ecu to learn a new O2 sensor? I still need to replace with a good one (even though it didn't make any change in the idle quality.) I plan to use a good m20 sensor and splice m42 wire harness. Seems like sensor is the same and need to save as much dough as I can.

At this point it's gotta be injectors, coils/wires, or timing/cam issue. I need to get my mutstang injectors rebuilt and installed. I plan to install the valve cover gasket this weeknd and will check the condition of the timing chain and sprockets as well as if the cam timing is out of spec.




5
Member Profiles / Re: DasFrogger
« on: July 21, 2014, 07:47:08 PM »
I'm in Louisville, KY.

I actually bought my car from a fellow a bit north of you between xenia and yellow spirngs. For whatever reason A lot of my cars (current and former) have come from that area - e21 from xenia, 1600-2 from yellow springs, 318is... i tried to buy a pair of 2002's up there a few months back too!

6
Member Profiles / Re: DasFrogger
« on: July 20, 2014, 09:17:58 PM »
This is a good news / bad news post.

First the good: took my e30 to my first autox a few weeks back. I ran the bottom of my class, but improved my time 10 seconds from the first run to the last and was pretty happy with that.



Video of my runs here: http://youtu.be/xZUjW9ByuBQ?list=UUtFavXCB4mNmZdXlN-0eeYA


I've had the car 2000 miles so far with only one issue (other than the idle) - It ate a waterpump on the interstate 72 miles from home. I was coming home from Indianapolis on July 6 and i heard a noise like i had run something over and trapped it under my car. I couldn't figure out what the problem was, but the car still felt fine and had good power. I had dark glasses on and couldn't really see the dash lights, but luckily a few minutes after hearing the noise i saw the check engine light was on. Immediately noticed every other warning light had come on and my temp was in the red. Thankfully I was able to safely merge into a rest area within a few seconds of noticing the problem. Had i been a few miles down the road i'd have been stuck in a construction area with no shoulder for a few miles. Pulled into the rest area with a trail of coolant behind me. The car proceeded to puke coolant from the waterpump for about 15 minutes.

Took a look around and noticed that the belt had snapped. I'll bet that's what I heard under my car.

Even though by a fluke I had a full tool set, jack and jack stands I didn't have any spare belts and no way to get to a parts store that would more than likely be closed on a holiday weekend sunday night. Bit the bullet and had it towed home.


New water pump, thermostat and all three belts and we're good to go. I was worried about the head but everything looks good. Had a shop check it and they gave it a thumbs up and I haven't noticed any coolant in the oil. I dodged a bullet there!

7
Engine + Driveline / Re: m42 rough idle - need help
« on: May 20, 2014, 08:40:19 PM »
The tensioner -- doing the guides would be much more invasive.  You can drop the lower oil pan, and if you have bolts or other parts sitting in the pan, then the case for doing the guides would become much stronger.

Here's the thread I was referring to

http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=18215.0

Thanks for the info! Looks like I need to get a parts order together.

8
Engine + Driveline / Re: m42 rough idle - need help
« on: May 20, 2014, 05:47:12 PM »
I have similar symptoms with the oil spitting out a little when I remove my cap, as well as a bit of excessive oil coming out of the vent hole at the top of the valve cover.  I have a 1222 code and ive had it since my rebuild (not sure if it had it before the rebuild or not).  I changed the temp sensor, spark plugs, o2 sensor, cleaned ICV, etc.  The Check Engine light goes away as soon as I touch the gas pedal so I am assuming it is idle related.  Our issue may be related to our throttle body which I am experimenting with. 

As for your air coming out of your cap when it is closed, you may want to get a new cap. 

Do you have any codes?

Sounds like the air coming out when the cap is removed is normal. No air escapes with the filler cap installed.

I need to reset and check codes. No CEL, but I'm sure it's throwing an O2 sensor code.

The cheapest thing to try first would be replacing the timing chain tensioner.

At 232,000 miles on my M42 (rough idle, failed smog checks), I ended up having a garage do a cylinder head job -- eight new exhaust valves and guides besides the other things that go with a valve job. I have a thread on this board that went through all the other things I did before I bit the financial bullet to get my car running properly again.

When it comes to replacing the Tensioner Should I pick up the guide rails and replace at the same time as the Tensioner piston, or is the piston enough? That job has been on my list, but I was hoping to get a few more miles out of what I had while I saved up some $

I'll have to look into your thread this evening. Thanks!

9
Engine + Driveline / m42 rough idle - need help
« on: May 19, 2014, 08:55:55 PM »
The below video is of my 91 318is m42. it's got a rumbly idle (kind of like it's got giant cams), and searches between 500 and 800 rpm at idle - sometimes drops a bit more. Never dies though. Runs and drives with no issues otherwise.

I've also noticed quite a lot of air coming out of the oil filler cap and a change in the idle before and after removing it. Does the m42 have really high crank case pressure, or do I have some blow by? You can see the air coming out of the hole as well as oil splatter. If it is just high pressure, does the change in idle indicate another problem?

Any ideas on what my problem(s) could be?

Took this video tonight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUPWxJy7KPY&feature=youtu.be

    *146,100 miles on the stock motor.

   * I've done the mess under the intake recently and have eliminated any vacuum leaks. Double checked via carb cleaner method and wasn't able to affect the idle.

    *Stock injectors should be very clean - run a bottle and a half of sea foam and some lucas injector cleaner.

    *Cleaned AFM, Throttle body, and ICV.

   * Installed spare AFM with same results

    *Unplugged O2 sensor same results. Installed new sensor with same results (however the new sensor's wiring was about 4 inches short and was clearly the wrong part. It has since been uninstalled)

   *the random plug that makes the car run bad is unplugged

   * Oil and filter are fresh 1k miles ago.
   * Spark Plugs fresh 1k miles ago.







10
Member Profiles / Re: DasFrogger
« on: May 05, 2014, 06:08:07 PM »
I recently got a new job (the reason for the e30 purchase) and am now having to commute downtown and park in a parking garage. Today was my first day and I didn't enjoy it one bit. My problems are:

1) lumpy idle (not the end of the world, but it really bothers me)
2) sometimes its very difficult to select a gear, especially 1st and 2nd, especially after it's been sitting for awhile.
3) the clutch goes all the way to the metal and the only way I can get it there is by using the big toe part of my foot. My toe didn't feel great after the weekend and driving in dress shoes was the least fun today. I don't really care if that sounds like a wuss problem. It's not comfortable to operate the car and something's gotta change.

I'm hoping that bleeding the brakes and clutch slave will solve my gear selection issue and that it's not my slave cyl on it's way out. I'll plan to bleed this weekend and update.

To solve my clutch/uncomfortable foot issue I figured I'd try a DIY clutch stop mod. Did about 20 minutes worth of research and I was off to Lowes. $4.85 later and I was back home ready to start.

So here's the exploded parts. Part numbers from Left to right below the picture - everything purchased from LOWES.

+ SoftTouch Felt Pads #0053801. 1.5" round, light tan felt, adhesive back
+ Elevator Bolt 3/8-16 x 1-1/2
+ Nut, 3/8"-16 #67341
+ Lock Washer 3/8" #61816

Got out to my car and found that the carpet one of the PO's had glued in over the stock carpet obscured the  view of the clutch stop.

Peeled back the nasty overlay carpet to find even nastier original carpet...and the location of the clutch stop.

I cut a hole in the overlay carpet to expose the stock clutch stop

Removed the stock clutch stop with a Phillips head screw driver. gave no resistance and came out in a few seconds

A comparison shot


I threaded the nut all the way up the Elevator bolt and then slipped the lock washer on after it. Twisted the elevator bolt in by hand till it couldn't turn any more then turned the nut down by hand till it was finger tight.


Picked myself up off the ground and started the car right up no problem. Did a quick test drive around the block and no problems using clutch. Too much traffic around my house to enjoy a testdrive so I'll go for one tonight.

Preliminarily it feels really really good. Way easier to shift and foot position is better too. I could probably back the bolt out a little more to minimize clutch travel, but for a driver this is really nice. Very happy with this mod, it yielded great results (so far), and was truly plug and play. Best $4.85 I've spent in a long time.


11
Member Profiles / Re: DasFrogger
« on: May 05, 2014, 05:40:25 PM »
Sounds like a quality time (regardless e21 or e30). I always make a stop at Hofbrau Beerhall for a boot and schnitzel when I'm in Miami, it's great. Hope to make the drive down south through Kentucky, Tennessee and Georgia one of these years. Timing is crucial as I don't have A/C in the 318, I don't want to be stuck driving at night because it gets too hot during the day.

I have all the parts to build the bypass, two 64118367832 and a 64218367834. Gotta get some other projects out of the way so I can do a proper before/after. I'm thinking the heater output will be reduced slightly or completely, really not sure so I would hold off if I were you.

It's always a good time getting out on those roads. It's a blast ripping thru the backroads with 8 other cars.

You're getting close to out of time for Kentucky. Once mid june hits it's pretty rough and it'll be late september before it's nice again. My 73 2002 doesn't have AC, and ithasn't been terrible, but not a lot of fun.

Good luck with the bypass. Looking forward to hearing how it works out

12
Member Profiles / Re: DasFrogger
« on: May 04, 2014, 03:36:04 PM »
I was just curious to see what parts you used. I did this last year and also deleted the heater core bypass valve. I found some coolant residue on the carpet so I might look into installing a simple bypass using 1/4 inch hose and T fittings, that shouldn't effect heat too much.

Might be mistaken but I think you mixed up two of the hoses. To my knowledge the valve cover goes to the throttle body and ICV goes to the intake boot.

Aside from that it looks like a good job.

Let me know how your bypass works out. I'm interested in finding a way to reduce likely hood of catastrophic heater core failure.

I'll swap the hoses around, maybe that'll help things - thanks for the advice!

Took the 318is to the Rivertown Gear Busters spring run yesterday. My 2002 could have made it, but it needs a little work and I haven't had the e30 out yet. The RGB is primarily a 2002 (and 70's era BMW) group, but we had a pretty interesting mix this year since 3 guys with 02's brought different cars.

Met at FUEL! coffee in Cincinnati for cars and coffee then set off to the hills of Kentucky for a spirited drive. a few hours later we ended up at Hoffbrau house for beers and eats. It was a beautiful day and great to catch up with old friends and to give the motor a chance to sing all the way to 6k.

The 318is did great. Ran over 250 miles, a lot of which was thru the hills in 2,3,4 all at high RPM.






13
Member Profiles / Re: DasFrogger
« on: April 29, 2014, 01:16:24 PM »
Would like to see some after pictures of your solution to 'mess under the intake'.

Doesn't look like much honestly. Throttle body looks a little bit tidier. You can see the breather hose on the left goes to the intake boot and you can kind of see that the hose from the ICV valve goes to the intake itself. Those are the most obvious changes. I didn't take any other photos because I was in a hurry to get everything back together. The "simon's take on mess under the intake" has some great pictures of what things look like under the top intake manifold.



Had about half an hour to work on the car today. Went to autozone and bought some NGK plugs and borrowed the O2 sensor socket set. Unfortunately the O2 sensor from the parts car didn't want to budge, and the metal siding was cracked and flared near the end anyway. It actually prevented me from getting the socket in place- had to use a hammer. I still plan to change out the sensor, or at least test my current one. The car drives great, only problem is at idle. Since it's livable i'm going to put off dropping another 150 bucks into the car since I'm still mid restoration on my 1600-2.

I did install the plugs though. Love how easy it is on this car. Old plugs were showing some age, but had uniform wear and were probably fine.


Installed new NGK's. Idle seems a tiny bet better - doesn't search as much but is still pretty lumpy. Not sure if that's the truth or just placebo effect.





14
Member Profiles / Re: DasFrogger
« on: April 28, 2014, 09:18:30 PM »
Did the 'Mess under the intake' mod this past weekend. It took about 4 hours from start to finish and I didn't have any unexpected issues that would have held things up. This was the main circuit that got removed along with the throttle heater plate:

The multi junction hose on the left was the major culprit for vacuum leaks:



After everything got buttoned up it fired right up. Much to my dismay my idle is still rough. It's better than it was, but still not right. I'm thinking injectors, O2 sensor, AFM. A friend brought me an 02 sensor and AFM from a parts car. I got the chance to try the AFM today with no change. I'll try the O2 Sensor tomorrow and change plugs afterwards to see what happens.

I've got a set of 19# mustang injectors too. They've been sitting for over 2 years, so I need to have them sent off to be cleaned before swap. My injectors were pretty nasty when I pulled the intake, so hopefully the swap will really show a lot of benefit. The picture below was taken after i did a little cleaning.


Hopefully it'll be running well shortly. I've got some cosmetic mods to do after - maplight rearview mirror, epsilloid headlights, 2nd light in the trunk (need to find some LED's for those too.

15
Member Profiles / Re: DasFrogger
« on: April 19, 2014, 08:24:22 PM »
So i've got this parts car....


Really, it's too nice to be a parts car though, and this is the dilemma. This 325is used to be the PO's daily driver until he smashed the oil pan on some train tracks and yanked the motor/transmission/driveshaft and let it sit until i came to get it. I came upon it quite on accident, went up to buy a transmission from the guy and he made me haul this car and another one not as nice back with me. It was quite the deal and I had a place to store it so no big deal...but I didn't know what i'd do with it. It would be a great candidate for a m50/m30/v8(!!!) swap, but it's pretty rough around the edges and I have no idea what works and what doesn't electrically. With the 1600-2 project eating all my spare cash I wasn't going to start anything with this car. I've got to find a buyer for it, but then there's the problem with all the goodies it's got on it...

Now that I've got the 318is I have a reason to want some of the nice parts on this car. It's got US Ellipsoids, 16'' Borbet wheels, Premium sound (that matches my interior!), Map light rear view mirror, fancy computers, Sport steering wheel, LSD (possibly 4.10) and the very best part - Ground control coil over suspension!

So I've got to figure out what I want to pull and what I'm ok with selling. The head lights are definitely coming out - i've got a spare sealed beam set that I can put back in. I pulled the borbets and replaced them with a set of 14's that I had laying around the shop. (not sure if i'll run them or not, i really like my weaves). I want the rear view mirror and steering wheel, but I don't have anything to replace them with. Not a big deal on the mirror, but more so with the steering wheel.

The biggie is the GC suspension. It's a $1700 option. I want to pull it because I don't believe It'll add any value to this car with the rough shape it's in. I don't want to pull it because it'll be a pain in the ass, I don't have anything to replace it with, and I don't know if I want to put it on my car. I don't even know if the spring rates would be good for a 318is.

It's time to do some thinkin. I hate to take all the good stuff off this car because I need to sell it sooner rather than later and it needs to be easy to sell/ get out of my basement shop. At the same time, I'm not going to ask very much for it so I aught to pull off some of the nice parts. hmmmm....










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