1
For Sale / Feeler - MD 318i
« on: April 06, 2011, 03:21:23 PM »
At this point I think it's safe to say that I will be selling this car. Anybody interested? I'm going to start at $3,000, but I'll certainly entertain offers.
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2
For Sale / Feeler - MD 318i
« on: March 29, 2011, 01:21:24 PM »
I'll try to get some up later. I've got them here at work, but I can't resize them here.
I can't get the picture uploader to work. The link below should take you to a Picasa web album. There are some action shots from a couple of years ago and then the crappy cellphone shots I took today. It hasn't been cleaned recently so please ignore that.
https://picasaweb.google.com/bullmand72/CarsSuch?authkey=Gv1sRgCLGW2IPi8NmawQE&feat=directlink
I can't get the picture uploader to work. The link below should take you to a Picasa web album. There are some action shots from a couple of years ago and then the crappy cellphone shots I took today. It hasn't been cleaned recently so please ignore that.
https://picasaweb.google.com/bullmand72/CarsSuch?authkey=Gv1sRgCLGW2IPi8NmawQE&feat=directlink
3
For Sale / Feeler - MD 318i
« on: March 28, 2011, 08:04:06 PM »
Gentlemen,
I have a 1991 (7/90 production) 318i that I might need to sell soon. It's got lots of upgrades and a few issues that need to be dealt with. What I'm looking for is a guesstimate of what I might be able to reasonably ask for the car were I to put it up for sale. Any opinions are welcome. All of the parts and work listed below were done within the last three years or so. The car was originally intended to be a SpecE30 car. I've used it mostly for daily driving but it has a good bit of autocross and a couple of track weekends as well.
The Good:
Bilstein sports
H&R race springs
Ireland swaybars (rears are adjustable)
AKG Motorsports subframe bushings
Control arms
Powerflex control arm bushings
Dynomax Turbo muffler
Mason Engineering front strut bar
Mason Engineering rear strut bar
Ground Control SpecE30 adjustable camber plates
Ireland rear shock mounts
3-spoke M steering wheel
Bavarian Autosport stainless steel brake lines
Sachs clutch
Slave cylinder
Radiator
Thermostat
B&M knock-off short shifter
Porterfield R4S brake pads
Ate PremiumOne slotted rotors
Speed Bleeder brake bleeder valves
Upper oil pan bolts secured with Loctite
Red Line Oils in the tranny and diff
OEM spoiler
New Bosch FR7LDC+ plugs within the last year
Valvoline Maxlife 10w30
Tie rod ends
The Bad:
No AC. It didn't work when I got the car and we took it out completely since it was going to be a race car. We removed just about everything except the lines that go into the passenger compartment. I think we took the condenser coil off as well. I remember buying a bunch of small mounting parts for the fan and installing them. You can turn the auxiliary fan on with the AC button.
No trunk lining at all. The trunk was leaking and flooded when I got the car. We took the entire lining out and fixed the leak(antenna grommet). It's all just painted metal back there.
The electric antenna doesn't work.
No fog lights. Just the lights themselves are not on the car. All the wiring and switches are still in place.
Terrible paint. The car was originally Sterling Silver and it's in very bad shape. It almost looks like a Delorean.
Rust - nothing too bad, but there's a bit under the front of the hood and a good sized spot underneath the rear bumper on the passenger side.
That's all I can remember right now. There's lots more little TLC things that we did to the car when I first got it. It had been a little neglected prior to my ownership so we did pretty much everything we could think of. I actually have a spreadsheet of all the part numbers and costs of everything if anyone cares to see it. Just PM me with your email.
Thanks and I look forward to hearing your opinions.
I have a 1991 (7/90 production) 318i that I might need to sell soon. It's got lots of upgrades and a few issues that need to be dealt with. What I'm looking for is a guesstimate of what I might be able to reasonably ask for the car were I to put it up for sale. Any opinions are welcome. All of the parts and work listed below were done within the last three years or so. The car was originally intended to be a SpecE30 car. I've used it mostly for daily driving but it has a good bit of autocross and a couple of track weekends as well.
The Good:
Bilstein sports
H&R race springs
Ireland swaybars (rears are adjustable)
AKG Motorsports subframe bushings
Control arms
Powerflex control arm bushings
Dynomax Turbo muffler
Mason Engineering front strut bar
Mason Engineering rear strut bar
Ground Control SpecE30 adjustable camber plates
Ireland rear shock mounts
3-spoke M steering wheel
Bavarian Autosport stainless steel brake lines
Sachs clutch
Slave cylinder
Radiator
Thermostat
B&M knock-off short shifter
Porterfield R4S brake pads
Ate PremiumOne slotted rotors
Speed Bleeder brake bleeder valves
Upper oil pan bolts secured with Loctite
Red Line Oils in the tranny and diff
OEM spoiler
New Bosch FR7LDC+ plugs within the last year
Valvoline Maxlife 10w30
Tie rod ends
The Bad:
No AC. It didn't work when I got the car and we took it out completely since it was going to be a race car. We removed just about everything except the lines that go into the passenger compartment. I think we took the condenser coil off as well. I remember buying a bunch of small mounting parts for the fan and installing them. You can turn the auxiliary fan on with the AC button.
No trunk lining at all. The trunk was leaking and flooded when I got the car. We took the entire lining out and fixed the leak(antenna grommet). It's all just painted metal back there.
The electric antenna doesn't work.
No fog lights. Just the lights themselves are not on the car. All the wiring and switches are still in place.
Terrible paint. The car was originally Sterling Silver and it's in very bad shape. It almost looks like a Delorean.
Rust - nothing too bad, but there's a bit under the front of the hood and a good sized spot underneath the rear bumper on the passenger side.
That's all I can remember right now. There's lots more little TLC things that we did to the car when I first got it. It had been a little neglected prior to my ownership so we did pretty much everything we could think of. I actually have a spreadsheet of all the part numbers and costs of everything if anyone cares to see it. Just PM me with your email.
Thanks and I look forward to hearing your opinions.
4
Engine management / 318i 1997 won't start
« on: June 24, 2009, 09:37:43 AM »
Desktop Dave,
Thanks for the suggestion. I think AdamG's description is a little confusing. I picked him up from the side of the highway yesterday and we did a little unsuccessful troubleshooting. The engine does actually turn over, it just won't start. The starter sounds normal and the engine is clearly turning over without making any unusual noises, it's just not starting. We checked the spark and that seems good, but it seems like it might not be getting fuel. There's a hint of a smell of gas coming from the fuel rail area when you try to start it but it's pretty faint and there's no visible liquid. The check engine light did come on at some point during the pulling off the highway portion of this and we're trying to get a hold of a code reader now to see if that can point us in the right direction. We're going to follow the troubleshooting guide in the Bentley manual, but the tapping and the smoke are confusing and concerning. We'll keep you posted and if anyone has any more ideas we'd love to hear them.
Thanks for the suggestion. I think AdamG's description is a little confusing. I picked him up from the side of the highway yesterday and we did a little unsuccessful troubleshooting. The engine does actually turn over, it just won't start. The starter sounds normal and the engine is clearly turning over without making any unusual noises, it's just not starting. We checked the spark and that seems good, but it seems like it might not be getting fuel. There's a hint of a smell of gas coming from the fuel rail area when you try to start it but it's pretty faint and there's no visible liquid. The check engine light did come on at some point during the pulling off the highway portion of this and we're trying to get a hold of a code reader now to see if that can point us in the right direction. We're going to follow the troubleshooting guide in the Bentley manual, but the tapping and the smoke are confusing and concerning. We'll keep you posted and if anyone has any more ideas we'd love to hear them.
5
Suspension / Put an E36 X brace in your car
« on: July 10, 2008, 09:47:45 PM »
Resurrecting an old thread here, but Mason Engineering is now making and E30 specific x-brace. I didn't see it on his website the last time I looked but http://www.carrindustries.com has them. I don't have on on my car yet, but the E36 one made a huge difference on my 318ti. Assuming these are made as well as the strut tower bars I bought from him it should be a nice piece.
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General Topics / ebay short shifter
« on: April 15, 2007, 01:28:01 PM »
Search on eBay for a seller named Turboracerx. He sells a B&M copy that's awesome. I think it was $35 including shipping. It's been it the car for a few months now. Very smooth with a nice satisfying click when it engages.
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Suspension / Wrong HR Springs?
« on: October 06, 2006, 08:46:51 AM »
From the H&R website:
1991 318is/318i
Stage Chassis/Drivetrain Notes F Lowering R Lowering Part #
Sport Spring E30 16V not cabrio 1.25 1.25 50404
1991 325is
Sport Spring E30 not cabrio or ix 1.3 1.3 50406
OE Sport Spring E30 not cabrio or ix 1.0 1.0 50404-55
1991 M3
Race Spring E30 not cabrio 1.6 1.5 50404-88
The Sport and OE Sport springs for the M3 are the same part numbers as the 325is. Hope this is useful.
Edit: Sorry about the formatting, it looks fine until I save it.
1991 318is/318i
Stage Chassis/Drivetrain Notes F Lowering R Lowering Part #
Sport Spring E30 16V not cabrio 1.25 1.25 50404
1991 325is
Sport Spring E30 not cabrio or ix 1.3 1.3 50406
OE Sport Spring E30 not cabrio or ix 1.0 1.0 50404-55
1991 M3
Race Spring E30 not cabrio 1.6 1.5 50404-88
The Sport and OE Sport springs for the M3 are the same part numbers as the 325is. Hope this is useful.
Edit: Sorry about the formatting, it looks fine until I save it.
8
Suspension / Put an E36 X brace in your car
« on: October 06, 2006, 08:35:00 AM »
I had one of these installed on my 318ti a few years ago. It made a noticeable difference in the way the car feels even in highway driving. I drove around for a day with the thing on the car having been told that they weren't able to install it. The car felt obviously different (i.e. more stable and just tighter), but I couldn't figure out why since I thought this part wasn't on yet. When I called the next day to set up the appointment to have it installed, they told me they did get it on. I went out and checked and there it was. So, I don't think the noticed improvement was wishful thinking since I didn't think it was there. Also, the brace is the lowest point of the car in that area and has taken more bangs and scrapes than I care to think about (Eibach Pro-kit + Maryland roads). It's holding up well. I would recommend it for any E36 that doesn't have one.
9
General Topics / I must be the only one this is happening to!
« on: October 05, 2006, 01:38:22 PM »
I took mine off and put it back on because I didn't want to leave those bolts out or have them sticking out. I've had a small leak since then too. Can those two bolts be replaced with bolts for cars that didn't have AC?
10
Engine + Driveline / E36 M42 airbox.
« on: September 29, 2006, 10:03:27 AM »
Update on this. Below is a reply I recieved about this on another message board. This helped confirm why I think this might be a good idea. I'm still not having any luck tracking down an airbox. It looks like any of the E36 M42 boxes would work. Anybody got one lying around or know of a source? Incidentally, there's something interesting in the realoem.com parts diagram for the 1991 318i. They call the airbox assembly an "intake muffler" and they show two part numbers. One is simply "intake muffler" and the other is "intake muffler with cyclon". What's that all about?
Just a quick question for those of you who know about these things. With all other things staying the same, will an increase in the size of the airfilter result in better airflow to the engine.
Maybe. :-) What's important is the amount of air pressure decrease as the air goes through the filter. Less pressure drop = more airflow (at full throttle). Assuming filters of similar construction, a
larger filter should produce less pressure drop, and therefore, more airflow.
Just a quick question for those of you who know about these things. With all other things staying the same, will an increase in the size of the airfilter result in better airflow to the engine.
Maybe. :-) What's important is the amount of air pressure decrease as the air goes through the filter. Less pressure drop = more airflow (at full throttle). Assuming filters of similar construction, a
larger filter should produce less pressure drop, and therefore, more airflow.
11
Engine + Driveline / E36 M42 airbox.
« on: September 26, 2006, 02:52:11 PM »
So far the concensus is that it's a good idea. I'm working on getting my hands on the airbox. I'll keep you posted.
12
Engine + Driveline / E36 M42 airbox.
« on: September 26, 2006, 06:06:51 AM »
Has anyone experimented with putting the airbox from an E36 M42(specifically in this case a 1995 318ti) on the E30 M42? I was thinking about it yesterday and checked some part numbers and some dimensions. The stock E30 M42 filter is 10x5.75. The E36 M42 filter is 9.25x9. That's quite a bit more surface area, but would it make much difference? From looking at the parts diagrams it doesn't look like it would take much effort to make the E36 box fit. What do you think?
13
Engine + Driveline / Timing Chain Replacement.... or not
« on: September 14, 2006, 09:09:28 PM »
I'm going to hijack your thread a little for two questions. Where are you located in MD, and where did you have your powdercoating done?
14
Engine + Driveline / AC Removal Q
« on: September 01, 2006, 03:31:19 PM »
Speaking of that mounting bracket, what did those of you who have removed it do about the two long bolts that go through the timing case? It just doesn't seem right to leave them out, but they're too long without the bracket in place. I'm assuming that on cars without AC there are shorter bolts there. Is that correct?
15
Engine + Driveline / Radiator bleed screw issue?
« on: August 31, 2006, 09:11:46 AM »
Update on this. After coming very close to overheating the car a couple of weeks ago, I sealed the bleed screw plug with that Magnum Steel stuff and it's been fine. New radiator, auxiliary fan switch and fan resistor go in today. I don't want to have to worry about this anymore.