Messages

1

For Sale / 1991 318is - Alpine White on Tan

« on: October 21, 2011, 11:01:05 AM »

My buddy is trying to sell his 318is and doesn't have an account here.  Here is the R3V FS link.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=225245

Thanks, guys!

2

Engine + Driveline / Surging idle 500-1300rpm

« on: January 13, 2011, 01:19:58 PM »

The thing that has me thinking is that it only happens when the car warms up.  I'd assume a vac leak, TB or AFM would happen regardless.  The O2 sensor comes into play when your car is warm enough for closed-loop.  When is the last time that was changed?

Then there's the usual...have you checked for vac leaks and/or cleaned the ICV & AFM?  I typically use a penetrating oil like  PB Blaster or Deep Creep instead of throttle body/carb cleaners.

replaced the O2 sensor w/ a brand new Bosch unit a year ago, did the mess under the intake about a year(ish) ago, replaced the ICV w/ a used one a little less than a year ago.  The thing is, unplugging the ICV did nothing to affect the surging idle, so i can't see why it would be that...

haven't cleaned the AFM lately.  Do i just PB blast the shit out of the AFM or what?

3

Engine + Driveline / Surging idle 500-1300rpm

« on: January 11, 2011, 11:20:55 PM »

So I have a similar problem with my 318is.  It is good to note that this only happens on extremely cold days, like in the negative range in Fahrenheit.  

So The car starts fine, idles fine, but once it warms up (to the 1/4 mark, never goes above that), the crap starts happening.  The car develops a bouncing idle right around 1500 or 2000 rpms, which is SUPER annoying, and while cruising in gear, let go of the gas, and the car coasts as normal, touch the gas, and suddenly the engine powers on, like you can't ease onto the throttle, its either coasting or significant throttle.  Very odd.

So i tried to diagnose, so there I was, hood open, car idling at 2k rpm bouncing about 100 rpm with a frequency of 1 Hz (bounced between 1900 and 2000 every second).  Unplugged the ICV, no change.  unplugged TPS, suddenly car revs to redline, so i plug it back in.  unplug MAF, idle drops to normal, but rough, then revs up, then dies.

Anyone have any input?  This is baffling me.

4

Engine + Driveline / Surging idle 500-1300rpm

« on: January 11, 2011, 10:21:24 AM »

What's a lambda sensor?

5

Engine + Driveline / Best bang for the buck exhaust system?

« on: January 11, 2011, 09:58:38 AM »

Cheapest is find a stock replacement at a junkyard or something, or if your friend can weld, that would be cheap also.  I have never heard of the ebay one you posted though.

6

General Topics / what is your average miles per gallon

« on: January 11, 2011, 09:50:48 AM »

I get avg 29-30 mpg, that is back roads driving to work and back every day, with a little stop and go traffic tossed in there, and it is worthy to note that I drive like an ass.

E30 318is w/ 220k on the clock, mess under the intake delete, (sort of) a cold air intake, electric fan conversion, and some general weight loss like removal of power steering, AC, most of the interior, etc.  The car without me in it weighs about 2300 lbs or so.

7

Engine + Driveline / disabling power steering

« on: October 25, 2010, 06:48:53 PM »

yep, remove it all.  drain the rack and plug it to keep dirt/water out.  You can lose like 15-20 lbs and with no fluid steering will be easier.

8

For Sale / 5-lug swap people! Buy my style 5s!!

« on: June 21, 2010, 11:43:41 PM »

Here they are: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110549674557&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_10794wt_1165

9

Engine + Driveline / Post Your M42 Engine and Engine Bay Pics

« on: March 25, 2010, 09:31:13 PM »

I went through something similar a while back, take a look at this: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=144995

10

Engine + Driveline / Totally weird heat problem

« on: March 07, 2010, 07:36:45 PM »

At idle the coolant flow is less so it warms up but while driving the flow is more and there is more airflow over the radiator cooling the coolant too much.  That would be a stuck open t-stat.  Sometimes that can cause poor heater performance.  Although I'd think you'd notice it in the temp gauge too.

yeah my temp gauge doesn't work at all, so that throws another wrench in the gears....

Also, the temp change is gradual from idle to revving, but not THAT gradual.  It actually happens over a time of like 15-20 seconds, from hot heat at an idle to cold heat at a constant 2.5k rpms.  still think it could be the t-stat?  if that is still the consensus, I may as well order one and slap it in...

11

Engine + Driveline / Totally weird heat problem

« on: March 07, 2010, 05:23:50 PM »

I really think I just may have another bad resistor pack, because I did the mess under the intake delete, and while I had everything apart, I took a good look at the heater hoses going into the firewall, and two things were evident:  first, there was no bypass valve.  Second, It appeared that the hoses weren't installed backwards, because of the pre-bends in the hoses appeared to be bent to fit and they could not have easily fit the other way.

One thing I can do is I can try swapping the resistor pack from my other 1991 318is which I know is good, into this (black) 1991 318is and eliminate that.  Also, several people have been saying it was the t-stat, but how can that be so?  it just doesn't seem to make sense.

12

Engine + Driveline / Totally weird heat problem

« on: March 06, 2010, 11:16:57 PM »

So in my 1991 318is, the heat blows hot when the car is idling (and warmed up, obviously), but when I rev the engine and hold the revs, (or start driving) the heat cools down to ambient temperature.  So in other words, while driving, the heat is cold, when idling at a red light, the heat is hot.  

Totally opposite of what you may think, and its throwing me for loops.  I just did the "mess under the intake" delete, and took a look at the blower motor and stuff, and visually, everything looked good.

And on a totally separate note, only the 4th speed on the blower motor works.  for the first three speeds, nothing.  I even replaced the blower motor AND the little brown resistor pack below the blower.

thanks guys!

13

Engine + Driveline / Sell it, or drive it until it dies?

« on: March 04, 2010, 10:28:16 PM »

I bought a 1984 BMW 533i for $550.  Runs perfect.  All it needed was a new PS pump and wheel bearing.  Got the entire hub/strut assembly from a junkyard for $60, scored a PS pump off a forum member (myE28.com) for $50, and its a great car!

14

Engine + Driveline / Sell it, or drive it until it dies?

« on: March 03, 2010, 10:57:16 PM »

sell it. to me.  now.

15

Engine + Driveline / Never-ending idle/rough start problems :(

« on: March 03, 2010, 09:45:27 PM »

its gotta be your ICV.  sometimes cleaning it doesn't help.  I had a similar problem for a long time, it would barely run when cold, super rough, and I had to be on the gas to keep it running when cold, but ran fine when warm.  Then I picked up a ICV at a junkyard for about $8, slapped it in, and BAM!  it runs perfectly to this day, cold or hot.  definitely worth the $8.