Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Vorpal

Pages: [1]
1
Exterior / Swapped a fog light for another intake
« on: July 17, 2008, 04:39:08 PM »
Quote from: nomad;53401
you going to do both sides so they match?


No, it will be asymmetric. I might make a black blanking plate and take the other fog light out, though.

2
Exterior / Swapped a fog light for another intake
« on: July 17, 2008, 11:46:39 AM »
Quote from: nomad;53392
Hoe about a little fiberglass patch and some bondo? Smooth it all out and it'll look like one panel with two holes? Painted black, nobody will really be close enough to notice imperfections


Good suggestion, but that's a little too permanent for my taste. I can accomplish nearly the same thing with paintable black caulk, which can easily be pulled out at any time if I need to remove the vent(s) for some reason (like if I want to return the car to stock in order to sell the car).

3
Exterior / Swapped a fog light for another intake
« on: July 17, 2008, 09:31:20 AM »
Quote from: John W;53367
This was pretty popular among the 318ti crowd, who referred to it as "fogging" the airbox. When I had my 97 ti, I cut a hole in the top of the brake cooling duct and ran a wide intake pipe (purchased from local autoparts store) up the factory airbox (which I cut a hole in the front of to accommodate this new intake pipe). I like your idea of installing a dedicated air source for this better. Check out http://www.318ti.org and maybe http://www.understeer.com -- both may have a few good ideas ....


Thanks for the compliment and the tips!

I used to have an M44-powered Z3, and I Fogged the airbox on that car based on Shawn Fogg's original instructions for the Z3:

http://ackthud.com/shawnfogg/1_9airbox.htm

He mentions the changes for Fogging an E36 318i/ti at the bottom.

4
Exterior / Swapped a fog light for another intake
« on: July 16, 2008, 09:05:51 AM »
Yeah, I'll figure out something to fill the gap. I have an idea, but it's of questionable "mod taste" and involves black caulk :rolleyes:

Quote from: Wizard;53322
There is enough room in front of the ABS system to drill a 3" or 4" hole for the air hose ducting.


Yep, that's exactly where I am planning on running the duct.

5
Exterior / Swapped a fog light for another intake
« on: July 12, 2008, 09:13:08 PM »
The previous owner of this car removed the stock airbox (and probably tossed it in the trash) in favor of a cone filter. Despite the cool racer (ricer?) sound, this "performance improvement" has left my poor M42 sucking in hot engine bay air.

So, what to do? I don't mind the cone filter, but I need someway to get cooler air through it. I like all of my driving lights where they are, so removing one of those is not an option. I do have this spare brake vent intake... and my fog light on the opposite side is busted... and three airdam intakes does look cooler than two :rolleyes:

STEP ONE: FITTING THE VENT

The busted driver's side fog light.


Gone.


The extra passenger's side brake vent just might fit.


It required some cutting.


And a bracket (aluminum L stock with stainless hardware).


Fitted. Looks like there is a V-shaped gap between the new vent and the existing brake vent. I'll have to come up with something to fill that later.


Sprayed with flat black (found a can in a box, I thought I was out!)


Step Two will be getting this new air source to the filter (or getting the filter down to this air source). Stay tuned.

6
Exterior / I blacked out my taillight panel
« on: July 07, 2008, 11:20:17 AM »
Thanks for the compliments and suggestions ;)

I like the semi-flat, actually. It's a good match for the semi-flat look of the black bumper trim. I wasn't about to spend $32 on a plastic filler panel. Right now any money spent on the car goes toward maintenance/repair. Therefore, I used what I had on the shelf rather then buy another can of paint, and it worked out nicely.

7
Exterior / I blacked out my taillight panel
« on: July 05, 2008, 02:43:09 PM »
I doubt that I'm the first person to do this, but I think it looks pretty good so here are some pics:

BEFORE


AFTER


If I would have had some flat black I would have used that, but I didn't so it's in semi-flat black.

8
M42 Reference / Engine failure / timing chain slipped
« on: June 05, 2008, 09:56:26 PM »
My odometer indicates 166k, but it's broken and likely has been for some time, so I put 186k+ on the poll. Still going strong, no problems besides a little lifter tick (not audible from inside the car unless the windows are rolled down and I'm driving next to something that will reflect the sound), which I understand is pretty much normal on an older engine. I pulled the valve cover and the cam sprockets still look nice and square. I dropped the lower pan and found no loose or missing bolt or even any rollers from the timing chain. Everything looks top notch! (knock on wood.) I have a new chain tensioner that I'll put in before too long, since everything else checks out.

9
General Topics / A/C
« on: May 23, 2008, 12:19:04 PM »
Nomad, your "point of no return" argument is a good one. A/C removal typically means that you just lost a big chunk of your potential buyers on resale. I wouldn't take it out if yours still "kinda" works.

10
Member Profiles / My '91 318i daily driver
« on: May 23, 2008, 12:16:17 PM »
I checked my upper oil pan bolts last night and I was actually surprised to see ALL bolts still in place! Still, I removed the three bolts around the oil pickup tube and Loctite'ed them and retorqued them, then retorqued (without Loctite) the remaining bolts. I probably should have removed and Loctite'ed all of the bolts, but it was very late and I was bone tired and just wanted to finish. Plus I figured that if the bolts have stayed in for 166k+ miles, they would probably be fine.

Also replaced the valve cover breather hose and the hood strut. Next in line:

-troubleshoot #10 fuse issue
-timing chain tensioner
-spark plugs
-accessory belts
-new (used alternator)
-driver's door hinge/stopper thing
-new (used) struts/shocks all around
-E36 steering rack retrofit
-New FL control arms w/offset bushings
-Alignment :)
-cosmetics

11
I just did the job last night when I changed my oil for the first time (I just got the car a week ago). I was actually surprised to see ALL upper pan bolts still in place! Still, I removed the three bolts around the oil pickup tube and Loctite'ed them and retorqued them, then retorqued (without Loctite) the remaining bolts. I probably should have removed and Loctite'ed all of the bolts, but it was very late and I was bone tired and just wanted to finish. Plus I figured that if the bolts have stayed in for 166k+ miles, they would probably be fine :)

Quote from: Alexx;48191
Is there a torque sequence to follow if I replace the lower oil pan gasket ?


If there is, it really makes no sense. The pan is under no particular stress and the bolts have very low torque on them, so I see no need. Just skip around on opposite sides of the pan when you re-torque, that's what I did.

-Winston

12
Member Profiles / My '91 318i daily driver
« on: May 19, 2008, 11:55:38 PM »
Quote from: Vorpal;49719
...I appreciate the M42/M44 goodness (though I think mine may need a little attention... doesn't seem as willing to rev as the Z3 did).


One other thing... while removing the valve cover, I noticed that the vent hose from the cover to the intake tube wasn't attached very well at the spot where it connects to the 'T' under the intake manifold. Also, it was a bit cracked on the ends and was being held together with gaffer's tape and a zip tie. I "re-repaired" the end of the hose as a temporary fix while I order a new one, and plugged it tightly onto the hose barb T. After taking the car around the block for a test, it seemed to be a lot more responsive. Maybe this was causing the sluggish response?

13
Member Profiles / My '91 318i daily driver
« on: May 19, 2008, 11:49:20 PM »
I popped the valve cover tonight to check out the condition of the timing gears, and just to have a gander at the general appearance of the top end. I'm getting a ticking sound that seems to be associated with the lifters based on what I've read on this site.

Odometer on the car says 166k, but it doesn't work so who knows how many miles this car has on it. No service records, so I have no idea when anything was done last.

Cam gears appear to be quite healthy.





Cam lobes look pretty good too.





Based on these pics, would everyone agree that I'd be safe going ahead with a tensioner replacement and switching to a heavier weight engine oil (like 15w50 or something similar... it's about to be summer here in Texas!!!)?

Thanks in advance.

-Winston

14
Member Profiles / My '91 318i daily driver
« on: May 19, 2008, 09:26:00 PM »
Thanks! No, the black "paint" was on there already. It's really a rubberized coating, like bedliner. Not sure if I like or not yet. Part of me really wants to paint the airdam red to match the rest of the car.

15
Member Profiles / My '91 318i daily driver
« on: May 19, 2008, 09:05:59 PM »
I just picked up this Bavarian beauty this weekend, to serve as my daily driver.




She needs some lovin' here and there, but overall a pretty good score I think. I've always wanted a red E30, and I've owned an early Z3 before so I appreciate the M42/M44 goodness (though I think mine may need a little attention... doesn't seem as willing to rev as the Z3 did).

*EDIT* Dang, sorry about the thread title! I just read that after I posted...

Pages: [1]