Messages

1

For Sale / Not Mine, But a $400 Rebuilt M42 head MA

« on: April 28, 2010, 02:37:54 PM »

$400 sounds like a fair price for a rebuilt head.  

$400 motors often need a timing rebuild as well.  I found a good used set of cam sprockets and rails when I did my timing rebuild... but those don't pop up very often.

2

For Sale / FS: M42 LTW Flywheel & Clutch

« on: March 23, 2010, 01:17:16 AM »

215mm vs 228mm.   Upgrading from the 'stock' m42 215mm flywheel/clutch size to the m20 228mm is supposed to handle more torque (at least with the oem clutches )

3

For Sale / FS: M42 LTW Flywheel & Clutch

« on: March 21, 2010, 03:22:53 AM »

Is this a 215 or a 228 setup? What's the cost on a new friction surface?

4

For Sale / 94 318 sedan Track/toy car build FS

« on: March 07, 2010, 02:46:57 PM »

Why not finish the project.... seems like you are very close. Get the motor in and running.   Run different wheels and you can skip the fender flares which are a huge time suck...    You can sell the stuff like the carbon hood / trunk, wheels, & HIDs to raise a bit of $$

5

Interior / What's involved w/ R&Ring a heater core?

« on: February 26, 2010, 08:15:28 PM »

I have the same question about the heater valve.... I'm not getting full heat output.  

Here's an r3vlimited post on Replacing the Heater Core.  Looks like they made it accessible so that the dash doesn't need to come out...

...and a more complete thread

6

For Sale / 1991 318is Missouri

« on: February 14, 2010, 05:06:33 PM »

free bump for detailed description and low price...   GLWS

7

Engine + Driveline / Main Thrust bearings

« on: January 15, 2010, 08:25:27 PM »

Copper colored material is what you see after the other metal has worn away, I have seen it three times in this engine and several times with others. Did the oil look somewhat milky? I will dig around and see if I can find pictures of the metal shavings that came out of the three M42's that I blew up.

Oil was not at all milky.  Compression is good.  

Thanks for posting those photos.... scary.... I'm pulling her off the road till I can show the shavings to a local expert.  

--If I really have bearing shavings... what are the chances my crankshaft and rods are still salvageable?

--Is it possible to swap-out bearings from under the car... by pulling upper pan  w/o pulling the motor?

Thanks again.

8

Engine + Driveline / Main Thrust bearings

« on: January 14, 2010, 05:13:44 PM »

Upon closer inspection of the "shavings" found in the oil filter... I'm not sure they are metallic... They are very flat and thin, like 90min cassette tape and come apart easily.  No metal slivers  or "metallic dust" was found in the filter.

This was the first oil change after a timing rebuild and dose of AutoRx in the oil. I'm thinking the "shavings" are either from gasket compound  or cooked sludge loosened by the AutoRx.  I inspected the current oil filter w/ 300 miles on it and no shaving or debris was found...   I'm keeping her on the road but keeping a very close eye on her....

Cheers,

9

Engine + Driveline / Copper Shavings

« on: January 13, 2010, 05:02:47 PM »

While we are on the subject of thrust bearings....  I was just inspecting the oil filter from my 200k oil change and found a bunch of "copper leaf" in filter folds.   The shavings look quite flat to me.  I'd expect crank bearing to have a slight curve to them,  so I suspect these are shavings from the thrust bearing.

Any thoughts on what else these could be?   How bad does this look?  

Can the thrust bearing / crank bearings be replaced by pulling the pan w/ motor in place or is  pulling the motor the best way to go at this.   Any tricks for measuring the end play?

Thanks.

10

Engine + Driveline / Anyone running an iX LSD?

« on: November 20, 2009, 09:49:37 AM »

I would be interested to know what tires you have and the tread depth

Tires are probably a big part of the issue... Toyo Spectrum Touring, 60%+ tread depth but they've hit their limits on rear camber wear.    I was holding out  for 15" or 16" rims before upgrading.... but maybe I should throw down on 2 new tires to keep me pointed in the right direction.  

I'm still very curious about the iX LSDs. There's a local low-milage one available.   I want to keep this thread alive... could be a good solution for us 4 bangers on the street..... or perhaps a big waste of time.  

The question is do these iX LSDs work past 80k... or are most of them cooked now from us hooligans?

11

Engine + Driveline / Anyone running an iX LSD?

« on: November 19, 2009, 01:55:37 PM »

Interesting.  Thanks.  

I did some further searching and folks seem to agree that clutch type LSDs can lead to surprises in the wet when pushed harder.   Some folks suggested that worn LSD clutches don't engage smoothly... jerking traction away from the remaining tire.  The iX's viscous LSD locks gradually so it shouldn't have such problems... but I wonder if it allows enough wheel spin that it doesn't really help either.

I used drive a Volvo 240 Wagon with a Dana LSD axle and that was quite stable in the rain & snow... especially compared to my old 2002.    The rear camber on BMWs makes our machines a hand-full in slick conditions. My guess is that a dropped car would be even more tail happy in the wet.  

Another question is the durability of the iX viscous LSD.  Some say its very durable as there are no wear parts and the unit is sealed, BUT many miata folks say their viscous LSD's fluid wears out after 75k, making it act as an open diff.  

How durable are these iX LSDs??  

They seem like a good cheap "street" LSD solution... (in theory).... and with M42 friendly ratios (3.91 & 4.10 )  

Anyone out there playing with iX LSD in the rain?

12

Engine + Driveline / Anyone running an iX LSD?

« on: November 19, 2009, 02:08:44 AM »

I'm considering swapping my open 4.10 for a 3.91 iX viscous LSD.   It's rainy season in Seattle, and my E30s tail has been stepping out unexpectedly in the wet, fish-tailing etc..

I understand the viscous LSD's don't start locking till one wheel spins and the fluid heats up.   I'm curious if the iX diff helps with wet cornering stability.  Anyone have experience with these units on a RWD BMW? How do they compare with clutch type LSDs in the wet?

Thanks!

13

Engine + Driveline / driveshaft

« on: November 19, 2009, 01:33:45 AM »

The two-halves of the driveshaft need to go back together exactly as they came apart. That's where the driveshaft can go out of balance.  It doesn't matter if the diff and  trans flanges are rotated.

14

Engine + Driveline / waterpump stuck will not budge

« on: November 17, 2009, 09:47:38 PM »

FWIW.  the "jack screws" need to be torqued slowly and evenly... tighten one.. then the other, repeat.   Otherwise the casing snaps pretty easy.

15

Engine + Driveline / E36 318is Swap Opinion Needed

« on: April 19, 2009, 11:34:04 PM »

Was the car smoking out the tail pipe or running poorly?  Any grey sludge in the oil or the coolant?  Did the mechanic indicate what might be wrong?   Worn or broken ring(s)?  Bent or burnt valve?  Headgasket?   w/o knowing the problem its hard to give a good answer.     A leak-down test will tell you what the problem is without having the mechanic tear into the motor.  

What do you know about the other 318i motor?  Do you know the mileage? Have you seen the car it came out of? Any compression numbers?