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Messages - pbgd3skier

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1
For Sale / e30 steel wheels and Hankook I Pike Snow Tires (Chicago)
« on: December 12, 2013, 09:26:59 PM »
I have a set of snow's on steels from my 91 e30 m42 - car died @ 220K due to a Nissan Murano.

If interested PM me to discuss, located near Chicago.


2
Electrical / aux fan troubleshoot question.
« on: August 15, 2010, 01:26:56 PM »
Good afternoon. Been trying to get my fan going. If I directly apply 12 v to the fan I get it to run one speed. I cannot get it to run moving to the other terminal. I suspect this means resistor.

But if I jumper at the thermostat switch it pops the fuse. Is this common with  bad resistor. It won't run low speed and I suspect that's why it won't start high speed with out blowing the fuse. Reasonable?

3
Engine + Driveline / Cleaning Intake Valves - Hands ON
« on: June 08, 2010, 06:57:43 PM »
Quote from: DesertEagle;93342
I thought the deposits on intake valves are fuel-related.  You're telling me that the engine oil is responsible?


Remember that your engine draws its own oily residues back through the intake and then reburns them.  This residue can really be a mess as far as gumming things up.

The line from the valve cover under the intake, and to the throttle body is the source of this rebreathing.

Its all sort of a emissions thing, not from the exhaust but from the engine in general.  If you hang around old cars you'll notice they have a stench.

4
Engine + Driveline / Question re: ICV
« on: June 06, 2010, 07:36:43 PM »
I did the whole vacuum line's mess, and have that back together.  And it has made the idle smoother.

BUT... it smootly varies over a few hundred rpm worth.  As if the ICV wasn't responding rapidly enough.

It seems to work if I apply 12V directly to the terminals, that being I can cycle the valve by switching the ground from the two side terminals.

And I did spray it out with solvent, and blew it out with air.  So I believe it to be pretty clean.

Is this worth replacing or should I check something else first.

5
Engine + Driveline / Mustang Injectors in an M42 engine
« on: May 17, 2010, 10:48:23 PM »
Interesting thread, but I'd like an opinion on the short of flow rate I should use.

I have a 91, 318i, and its fuel economy's been a bit shirty for the engine's size, so I am in the process of the "mess under the intake" And my lower intake manifold was of course gummy, same with the injectors.

Since I am in this deep, the concept of swapping the injectors to the 4 pintle variety seems attractive.  But I do not know if I should change flow rate.

Unmodified engine, probably won't do anything to it, if I do it would probably just be a chip.  Would you bother w/ swapping injectors?  Will I realize any benefits going to the 4 hole variety in a factory flow rate?

6
Engine + Driveline / e36 remanufactured Cylinder head anygood?
« on: May 17, 2010, 06:06:39 PM »
Depending where you are, I have a head off a e30 m42 around.  I haven't checked it out, I pulled it off a parts yard engine that I bought for the lower end.

It may be good, it may not.  But if you were localish it'd be free.

7
M42 Reference / Manuel tranny ATF...
« on: December 15, 2009, 04:09:22 PM »
Quote from: DesktopDave;73402
Yup, it's ATF.  Some do gear oil, some do ATF.  I don't know how you'll flush it though - just drain & refill.  Make sure you open the fill plug first...that way you'll know for sure you can refill it....


This holds true for my car,

Go to realoem, enter your serial number, get the transmission diagram.  It will show the sticker for your car, by serial number.

If there is a possibility yours won't take ATF it should show both stickers.

8
Engine management / e30 318is exhaust question
« on: November 30, 2009, 09:33:39 PM »
measure your factory one?  Get the same inlet pipe.  You'll probably need to have mounts made.

9
Suspension / camber correction - offer your input
« on: November 30, 2009, 08:02:00 PM »
Quote from: dwtaylorpdx;82065

The dual unit test in the pic is completely invalid.


Agree with you, I was watching the video, and didn't see until later when they removed the items from the press that they were just squeezing the two until something popped.

In a real world application this doesn't tell you squat.  It looks impressive though.  Lots of products are sold on videos like that.  Watch as our knife cuts this hammer!

Who cares if a knife will cut a hammer, its not a valid test.  Professional chefs don't use knifes that can cut into hammers.

10
Suspension / new rubber?
« on: June 05, 2008, 07:22:29 PM »
There is a common problem where in the tabs that mount the sway bar and bushings really are flimsy parts, and can fatigue and break.

many people sell kits for the rear, for up front you'll probably do best making some plates and boxing the mounts in from the sides.

The kits look something like this http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=T30REINF

Now is it necessary?  if you drive hard on occasion, no, but if you start getting into some autocrossing,or install thicker diameter sway bars and stiffer springs it would be a good idea to start reinforcing different trouble areas.

As far as bushings, i don't feel like you necessarily need to do every thing, but most are probably on their way out if they were OE.  I wouldn't spend alot of money on aftermarket ones in most areas of the car, again if you autocross you might make some exceptions, but for the most part they are decent.  Rear subframe bushings are the hardest ones to do, but probably the most important, my cars were shot and the things would shift in corners if you hit a bump.  Unnerving to the extreme.

11
M42 Reference / Engine failure / timing chain slipped
« on: June 02, 2008, 09:34:17 PM »
When I got the car the engine was shot, needed head work, valves, and bottom end work.  Not sure what the PO did, no oil changes, maybe antifreeze leaked out who knows.

Read 115 miles on the odo.

1991 e30.

Bought a junk yard engine that had certain good bits (like the head) and build 1 good engine out of the bits.  Have alot of spares around from that engine too, which is good.

12
General Topics / Sick and tired of Craigslist !!!
« on: June 02, 2008, 07:26:54 PM »
Quote from: biglar;50484

It seemed to run fine but i need it to the shop..........$3k later.

Bottom line - pay more to buy from an enthusiast.  The end


Or the other possibility - your shop hosed you.

13
How-To's / DIY Accessory Belt Replacement
« on: March 23, 2008, 07:07:49 PM »
its super simple with V belts, the belt goes around the a/c pulley, one side goes under that black tensioner which is driven up or down by the allen head visible in your picture.  it goes behind the other belt, so you'll have to remove your other belt to fish it onto the drive pulley.

no garauntee that your ac will work with the belt installed

14
How-To's / DIY Accessory Belt Replacement
« on: March 19, 2008, 04:04:37 PM »
Quote from: n2motorsports;43838
Link is dead...anyone have another resource?  I'm sure I can figure it out but I'd rather do a bit of research first.

Thanks.


I checked wayback machine for a link for this one, it hasn't been archived.

Anyway, I am confident you can manage this process, remember to be careful to not strip the geared drivers, I put some push on the object I am tightening so that when I turn the nut it doesn't jump teeth.

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