Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Mustang Injectors in an M42 engine

« on: July 03, 2011, 12:46:03 PM »

You could use an exhaust gas analyzer to test for CO & adjust the AFM accordingly.

I was under the impression that the external screw provided adjustment for idle only.

2

Engine + Driveline / No lambda probe

« on: July 03, 2011, 11:32:51 AM »

Has anybody run injectors with increased flow rate on a car without a catalytic converter, i.e. with no lambda probe? Presumably it just overfuels and would ideally be remapped.

3

Engine + Driveline / Plugs

« on: June 12, 2011, 01:24:08 PM »

1:


2:


3:


4:

4

Engine + Driveline / Very strange idle problem - Movies.

« on: February 24, 2010, 12:41:32 PM »

Great picture!

Not mine, credit where credit is due - http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318istimingchain.html

5

Engine + Driveline / Very strange idle problem - Movies.

« on: February 24, 2010, 10:34:03 AM »

So let me see if I got this right.

If one has a car with the timing chain off and has no marks he must:

1. get the engine at TDC
2. lock the flywheel
3. set the cams with the circle marks upwards and lock them with the upper side parallel to the head and with the first two lobes of the camshaft up an pointing at eachother.
4. put the chain back on and set the sprockets so that the chain fits right, if possible with the bolt in the center of the hole.

Is this what it takes to set it correct?

Well yours seems to be roughly right so you don't need to go through the whole procedure. If I were you I'd get the timing as correct as you can before opting to do anything more drastic; it's quite simple and worth doing whilst you have the top of the skull removed.

1. Stick a locking pin in your flywheel to get it at TDC.
2. Check whether the squares at the end of the camshafts are parallel with the head and each other, as shown below:
3. If they are not perfectly oriented, loosen the camshaft sprockets and rotate the camshafts using the squares at the opposite end to get it set as best you can.
4. Tighten up any bolts you've loosened, remove the flywheel locking pin and manually rotate the engine to settle. Re-lock the flywheel and check all is as you left it.

Obviously if you find it all looks OK there's something else amiss but, as I said earlier, my exhaust cam was off a little like yours looks to be and sorting that improved my idle hugely.

6

Engine + Driveline / Very strange idle problem - Movies.

« on: February 21, 2010, 02:40:28 PM »

Thanks Flyinglizard, will look into it sometime next week.

Has anyone else ever experienced a sound like that in the exhaust? Any similar exeprience?

The two things which caused my poor idle were a split vacuum hose to the brake servo and the timing being slightly off, the latter making a huge difference.

7

Engine + Driveline / How to determine flywheel type

« on: February 18, 2010, 03:58:25 PM »

According to the BMW ETK, non a/c cars came with a SMFW and a/c cars came with DMFW.

If I look on realoem.com for a '91 car it doesn't give me the option of a single mass, whereas looking for a '90 car presents both. Perhaps being a non-US vehicle matters are more complicated. I'll give the VIN+dealer combo a shot.

8

Engine + Driveline / How to determine flywheel type

« on: February 18, 2010, 03:43:12 PM »

I was under the impression that dual-mass flywheels were brought in for all types mid-1990, hence mine could potentially have either. Perhaps it is easier to find out the build date, is it recorded anywhere?

9

Engine + Driveline / 91 318ic - Clunk, clunk, in the driveline

« on: February 14, 2010, 04:36:30 AM »

I did just replace it and the Guibo last week, so that the first place I'm suspecting...

I'm not a gambling man, but if I was I'd bet on something related to that work being the culprit. If you did it yourself go back and check everything - you must be able to better determine whereabouts the sound is coming from. Allow your eyes to be led by your ears, but don't rush. Get under that wretched vehic with your tools and investigate.

10

Engine + Driveline / How to determine flywheel type

« on: February 13, 2010, 07:55:29 AM »

A good effort, but alas it is not AC equipped.

11

Engine + Driveline / How to determine flywheel type

« on: February 13, 2010, 06:51:21 AM »

Hi,

My E30 is a 1990 model, what is the easiest method to determine whether it is fitted with a single-mass or dual-mass flywheel? Is it possible to find out from the VIN no., or would I have to take the starter off or similar?

Thanks all

12

Engine + Driveline / Timing chain rattle after rebuild

« on: August 20, 2009, 04:53:38 PM »

Well for lack of any better ideas I took the chain off again and compared it with the old one, and found the 'new' one to be about 2mm longer in length despite the much better condition of the rollers.

The old chain has been put back on and the tensioner piston protudes noticeably less, and upon starting up the racket has pretty much disappeared. Much better.

It does beg the question, how much wear or 'stretch' is permissible in these chains? 2mm does not seem like a huge percentage to me but then I've never designed an engine.

13

Engine + Driveline / Timing chain rattle after rebuild

« on: August 20, 2009, 12:26:29 PM »

Turning the engine over slowly by hand shows the tensioner piston moving in and out. At it's extreme the tensioner guide rail moves to such an extent that it does not appear to be able to go any further due to the exhaust cam sprocket. At this point there is a slight amount of slack in the lengths either side of the idler sprocket.



I don't know if this is a problem, and if it is, how or why it has become one!

14

Engine + Driveline / Timing chain rattle after rebuild

« on: August 20, 2009, 11:55:53 AM »

Thanks for the replies, and apologies for the state of the oil, the new stuff is waiting to be put in once all this is done.

I've had the car several years, now on 168k, and elected to change these parts over as it had become noisy over time and I could see the cam shaft sprockets were worn, however upon opening up the front casings it became evident that some parts had actually been changed previously, most likely 10 years/80k mls ago. As said before the replacement parts are known to be good and have only had light use.

The new tensioner 'popped' instantly (after being installed compressed), and the oil pressure light extinguishes immediately which to me suggests good oil pressure. The chain was not 'rattly' like this previously.

I've taken the lower cover off again now too but still can't see any issues. Baffled!

15

Engine + Driveline / Vibration Damper Timing

« on: August 20, 2009, 10:20:40 AM »

All checked OK, more problems though: http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9437