Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Post your idle speed range

« on: March 13, 2012, 01:19:45 AM »

my first m42 did that, got me worried at stops that it'll die in the intersection, but I drove it like that for several years without problems.  on my current m42, it idles a rock solid 900 then "hiccups" and drops to 800 and back to 900.  weird

Yeah, hiccups is a good way to describe it!

2

Engine + Driveline / Post your idle speed range

« on: March 11, 2012, 09:02:51 PM »

I know M42 engines are known for funny idle, but curious what yours is.

I have been playing with the set screw for the top throttle, as well as the set screw for the ICV (you can chip the brass screw out of epoxy on the ICV and then adjust it to set the gaps in the ICV.  

The computer is smart enough to always revert to the same (low idle speed).

What I generally see is this:  A normal idle speed of say, 550-650 (is there a good way to get the actual speed besides reading the tach?).  AC relay clicks on, engine speeds up to about 800, then slowly dies down to about 600.  Relay clicks off, speed drops a bit to about 550, then picks back to about 600.  

This happens over and over.  Typical?  has always been this way since Ive owned the car, which is about 10 years and 70k.  

But the low idle bothers me, especially since all rubber is good, ICV is newer than 2006, O2 sensor from 2004, no leaks, squeaky clean emissions, good MPGs.  

Normal?  Abnormal?  No idea what is or isnt...

Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks!

3

Engine + Driveline / E30 M42 Cold Start - raised idle

« on: March 11, 2012, 08:54:44 PM »

Does anyone with an E30 M42 engine get a raised idle at cold start?  

Some of my cars do 1000-1500 rpm for a short while when it is a very cold start.  My 318i always starts and runs at the same idle speed it does any other time.  It is a bit low - 550 or so on the tach, but it is consistent and smooth.

Does anyone have a fast idle at cold start that comes down to normal after?

4

General Topics / M42 Alternator Bushings

« on: January 25, 2012, 09:18:18 PM »

Hi,

While this is related to the alternator, it isnt an electrical question.

My 91 318i has 140k miles.  In the cold, the alternator has started to whine when it is loaded, but just for a few seconds at startup.  

Ive noticed that the alternator does not sit square.  From searching, it seems that this indicates that the bushings are bad.  So I need to replace them.

I dont have access to a press.  Can I manually replace the bushings, or do they need to be pressed in?  I believe they look like this:



Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks!

5

Engine + Driveline / Which sensor send the temp to my Dash?

« on: February 13, 2010, 03:14:26 PM »

Yeah 2 pin brown for cluster, three pin blue for the ecu.

Are the harnesses or actual sensors accessible (not removable) with the intake and everything still attached?

6

WTB/WTT / Wtb temp gauge

« on: February 13, 2010, 12:33:34 PM »

Interested in buying temp gauge.  Possibly a cluster if the price is right.  Shiped to nj.

Thanks!

7

Engine + Driveline / Which sensor send the temp to my Dash?

« on: February 13, 2010, 11:28:25 AM »

Thanks, though that was how it was laid out...  Just a few more ?s.  

Do both sensors have the same scale (same resistance readings at various temperatures?

Can either, and preferably the gauge sensor, be checked/harness removed without removing the intake?

Is the nut that connects the gauge to the pcb in the cluster part of a ground path?  There are two pins on the gauge that touch the pcb, if the threaded item is truly a ground, I may try to re-ground it by adding another wire directly.  I've tightened the nut down well with no improvement...

8

Engine + Driveline / Squeeeeeeeeeeal

« on: February 13, 2010, 12:03:17 AM »

Mine gets this, it isthe alternator.

9

Engine + Driveline / Which sensor send the temp to my Dash?

« on: February 13, 2010, 12:01:41 AM »

Can anyone comment on thedifficulty to access/disconnect the sensor harnesses, and also to replace the sensors?

My temp gauge is flaky, but it is not the nut inthe gauge, I've cleaned the connections and tightened it.  I need to check the sensor and/or replace it.  

Since there is tons of snow here, it is toughto go out and fiddle much. If anyone who has worked with these before could comment, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!!

10

General Topics / bad idle

« on: October 10, 2008, 10:28:19 AM »

Ive got the same or at least a similar problem with my 318i, which has 114k.

If I start it cold, it runs perfect.  If I get it up to temperature, shut it off and then restart before it cools down fully, it stalls.

it will do this time after time, unless I rev it up unloaded to 3000 RPM or so.  I cant get the engine to load without stalling, because it goes off so fast after startup...  I need to do that revving right away.

new fuel pump, ICV, injectors, O2 sensor, battery, plugs, wires, oil, etc., etc.  thi car is meticulously maintained to ensure that anything that could go wrong is replaced before its time.  This is just a nuissance thing, but perhaps the AFM amp or a few other things may help...

Thanks,

JMH

11

Exterior / Entire roof replacement...!

« on: October 09, 2008, 09:13:06 PM »

Wow!!!!!!!

12

Engine + Driveline / hot start stall

« on: October 09, 2008, 08:51:33 PM »

Hello,

My 91 318i has 114k miles. It runs great except in one instance.

If it starts cold, it starts perfectly - no issues. If I get the car up to full temperature, shut it off, then re-start it, it will catch and then die within a few seconds. If I do this again and again, this will happen over and over. However, if I start it hot, idle it at 3000RPM or so for a few seconds, then it will idle smooth and will not be a problem again at all, until I re-start it again in the same fashion.

I have a new fuel pump (the old one was a bit noisy), and I have the check valve on the fuel line. I have new injectors (not necessary, but I thought I could quiet a tick which I couldnt), a new ICV and O2 sensor within the last few years.

The car runs great and yields good fuel economy. No problems with power, operation up to redline, etc. AC blows cold, though the idle is stronger and more consistent with the AC on. The car is great besides a parasitic load on the battery which seems as if it may be a bit troublesome - and Im working on. It is irrelevant, as Ive had this issue for longer than Ive had to bother with this battery load.

Any thoughts???

Thanks,

JMH

13

Electrical / Typical parasitic loads

« on: October 09, 2008, 08:15:34 PM »

Hello,

My battery was down to 8.8V after 4 weeks of sitting.  This is abnormal, as my car has sat before without this sort of issue.

I have a keyless entry and stereo amp directly wired... so I checked them by themselves as well as the rest of the car.  What I got was this:

-keyless draw: 8.90 mA
-amp off: 6.55mA (including starter circuit which senses voltage in the speaker line and gives a starting pulse)
-Battery cable (OE car items only) only: 44.3mA

With everything connected together, I got 59.7, 60 and 63 mA at different times.

Now the odd part is that I went to the fuse box and found that only two circuits had draw:
-The one with the radio memory and a bunch of lights drew 39.82mA
-The anti theft and central locks drew 1.79mA
-The lighter and power antenna took 0.43

When I checked loads back in 2006 when I replaced my battery for age reasons, I found that the circuit with the radio memory took 37.1, but the difference could have been because of the battery voltages, I suppose?

I saw some guidance that suggested that modern cars should have no more than 50mA parasitics. Im at 60mA. Is this excessive? is 50 excessive? Given my draws, would it be smart for me to consider a deep cycle battery?

Your thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,

JMH

14

Engine + Driveline / Warm start stall

« on: July 30, 2008, 08:26:24 PM »

Hello,

My 91 318i runs like a top, good power, good mileage, etc.  It always starts cold.  However, when I start it hot, i.e. after using it for a while, and let it sit from 30 seconds to an hour or two... then it will start up and immediately, gracefully go right back to 0 rpm, i.e. stall.  No odd noises, and this will happen multiple times.

If I give a little bit of gas, the car will stay running very easily, and then idle just fine - rock solid stable.  And its not much gas, just 1500 RPM for about 5 seconds is all it takes.

The car starts, runs, idles, etc perfectly otherwise... There is no clear issue that exists.  The fuel pump is recent, as though it wasnt exhibiting any problems, it was noisier than I thought it should be, and the connection was a bit flaky...

Any thoughts as to what it could be???

Thanks,

JMH

15

Engine + Driveline / Anyone heard of Catco catalytic converters?

« on: June 13, 2008, 01:31:48 PM »

roten egg smell aside, do you fail?  are your emissions OK?

Remember - PM is EXPENSIVE these days.  There can't possibly be as much in a $300 cat as in a $1600 cat.

The aftermarket I used when my NOX kept me from passing barely and just barely did a better job than my lousy OEM cat that wasnt doing its job - I mean utterly poor.

An OE cat made the emissions like new.

I guess the goal would be an intermediate level of metals loading and performance, but how can you be guaranteed?

Ive heard that DEC (diversified environmental) converters are the ones to get for as-OEM performance for less.

Good luck,

JMH