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Messages - cheesebox

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1
Engine + Driveline / Rush of air when opening fuel filler cap
« on: July 20, 2011, 03:28:59 PM »
Mine's a non-cat model. I've noticed a smell of fuel too when the engine's cold. The tank was replaced recently, but that was a few months ago. The problem only start recently. It might coincide with having the inlet manifolds off to replace the rubber pipes under the TB. Maybe I've disturbed something around the fuel pressure regulator?

2
Engine + Driveline / Rush of air when opening fuel filler cap
« on: July 19, 2011, 03:23:16 PM »
Not sure my car has a check valve. Are you talking about the part mentioned here?

You say it's under the intake boot. You mean the rubber boot feeding into the TB? That's not what the pic shows. Confused now...

3
Engine + Driveline / Rush of air when opening fuel filler cap
« on: July 18, 2011, 03:46:21 PM »
The last few times I've filled up with fuel, when I've unscrewed the filler cap I've noticed a massive rush of air into the tank.

Based on what I've read in other forums, I'm guessing there's a problem with the system for equalising pressure in the tank as fuel is pumped out. Maybe due a blocked pipe. I've not found any e30 specific info though.

Does this sound the likely cause, or could there be other possible issues?

Note the engine runs fine and the fuel economy is probably the best it's been.

I'm not clear on how the system should work, or which pipes are which on top of the tank, so any guidance would be appreciated.

4
Engine + Driveline / problem trying to bleed coolant
« on: September 25, 2010, 08:53:23 AM »
Are you following the procedure as per http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318ismaintenance.html#bleed ?

I've found also an air lock can form in the top (or bottom - can't remember) radiator hose. That might be your problem. Keep squeezing the hose flat and releasing - you will hear air being forced out and water being drawn through. Eventually all the air will be forced out.

5
I'd recommend replacing the following parts in the diagram in the above post:
18, 17, 14, 25, 16, 11, 13 (maybe no.4)

And parts 11, 13, 16 in this diagram

These are all awkward/impossible to get to without removing the TB, TB heating plate, and upper inlet manifold so you might as well replace them all once you've got it apart.

I've had mine apart this afternoon to replace no.25. Putting it back together really is a pain in the arse - especially the two half-inch hoses which fit onto the bottom of the TB and heater plate. You have very little room to work, and the hoses are hard to grab and push onto the pipes. There was a lot of swearing.

6
If you do want to replace as original rather than delete as per the above article, you can find the part numbers here: RealOEM page

It's quite a fiddly job to assemble everything - the TB gets in the way so you can't see what you're doing. Working out what goes where is a puzzle as well. I'd recommend marking bits with permanent marker or paint before you dismantle so you know what connects where on reassembly.

The following do mail order in the UK:
http://www.cotswoldbmw.co.uk/
http://www.bmminiparts.com/
http://www.c3bmw.co.uk/

7
M42 Buyer's Guide / What is the curb weight of a 318i vs.318is?
« on: September 11, 2010, 06:22:47 AM »
Quote from: DesktopDave;96397
That's a question that just came up recently.  I was dickering over an iX fender set from a coupe...but neither I nor the seller knew for sure if the coupe & sedan are different lengths...I did get a ski bag & map light mirror out of the deal...those will fit for sure. :D

Anyone know positively one way or the other?


RealOEM shows the front fenders are the same on Coupe and Sedan.

8
M42 Buyer's Guide / What is the curb weight of a 318i vs.318is?
« on: September 10, 2010, 12:13:24 PM »
Quote from: sKunk;96386
are the 4 doors longer then the 2 doors?


Wikipedia says no.

9
General Topics / problem with keys
« on: September 10, 2010, 11:55:11 AM »
Skunk - the problem you've described is an electrical fault in the central locking system. Unlikely to be key or lock related. Most likely due to corroded contacts in the plug near the door hinges - behind the rubber cover. Common e30 problem. Check http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Central_Locking_problems

10
General Topics / problem with keys
« on: September 10, 2010, 04:19:03 AM »
Quote from: locknload;96376
I just use the trunk lock to lock & unlock the car.  Much smoother & saves on the keys.  Somebody somewhere has a DIY to install a keyless entry bought on ebay for $20 or so.  If your lock actuators still work, all you have to do is tap the control box into the circuit.


Best suggestions in the thread, I'd say.

Also plenty of lube is never a bad thing ;) My front door locks got quite stiff on the clockwise turn, and got so bad I snapped a key. Spraying WD40 through the key slot will help for a while. For a lasting solution to the problem remove the lock barrel, give it a good clean with fuel or solvent and use a mineral oil to lube it up (WD40 will dry out after a while and it will stiffen up again).

You can get oil into the barrel without removing it, if you insert a thin screwdriver or wire through the key slot, tilt it up, and run a few drops of mineral oil down the wire/screw driver. It'll end up in the lock barrell.

Hold a cloth under the lock to stop oil dripping down your paintwork.

11
Suspension / E30 factory suspension
« on: September 08, 2010, 02:22:48 PM »
I thought the E30 318is had "special" suspension, but looking on RealOEM it shows the springs and dampers were common to other models too:

Rear shocks
Springs
Front struts

But then M TECHNIC parts are mentioned but not specifically listed:
M TECHNIC

So what does this mean? Was the M Technic suspension an option on the 318is, with standard setup being the stock option?

12
General Topics / purchase new fuel tank, looks wrong type
« on: August 02, 2010, 12:09:22 PM »
I've removed the fuel tank from my 318iS, and had bought a new tank from Euro Car Parts (UK supplier of equivalent non BMW manufactured parts) to replace it. With the two side by side I can see there are some major differences:

- The original has one hole in the top, for the fuel pump. The new one has an extra similar hole on the top, at the other end.

- The original has two indentations running the length of the top, into which two fuel lines are recessed. The new one only has one recess.

- The new one does not have the holes in the bottom for the link pipe to fit into, between the two wells.

- The new one looks a good 4 inches wider.

- The new one doesn't have the front nearside mounting hole in the right place - it's too far inboard.

I've read e30 tanks are interchangeable despite there being different capacity ones used in different models. It might be posible to modify this one to fit, but it's not going to be a simple job.
 
Can anyone confirm this, and identify what type it is I've got?

13
Engine + Driveline / Clutch Judder & Axle Tramp
« on: November 26, 2008, 05:16:00 AM »
Quote from: drevilkep;61409
Mine is doing this now as well.  Started doing it on my way home from work this week so I looked under the car when I got home: It's a torn differential mount. :mad:  Luckily I was planning on replacing all the driveline rubber at some point so I have the new mount, ready to install.


Thanks Drevilkep. I've just started a new thread kind of based on what you've said:
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7346
Hoping you can detail the items you're replacing in there...

14
I'm replacing the clutch soon.

I'm looking for ideas on what other bits I could replace while it's in pieces, particularly bushes and rubber in the transmission and gearshift, to reduce backlash and improve the feel of the gearchange.

I'm guessing:

- Diff mount,
- gearbox to propshaft coupling (guibo),
- gearbox mounts
- gear linkage bush(es).

Any comments on the effectiveness of the above, or suggestions for other items would be gratefully received. A list of part numbers would be ideal if anyone's done these jobs recently.

Thanks!

15
Engine + Driveline / Clutch Judder & Axle Tramp
« on: November 19, 2008, 03:27:59 PM »
Quote from: xwill112x;61145
revving it up, and dropping the clutch will bend them..


Doesn't sound like my style! Maybe it was when I lent it to the wife :D

I'll check this out. I've also heard worn axle bushes could cause axle tramp.

If it's bent shafts would this be noticeable all the time, not just when pulling away at the brow of a hill?

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