Messages (Become)

My profile gasket was the same.  I wondered if it was ever replaced under the recall as it was obvious there was still coolant getting into the crankcase when I tore it down.  The m44 timing case gasket is metal and all one piece now, replacing the handful of m42 paper ones.  I bought the m44 metal gasket separately and used it instead of the paper ones that came in the head set.  I suggest pulling the head and building it all back up from the bottom, instead of trying that lubricated shim stock trick documented elsewhere.  I'm pretty sure that trying to slide the timing covers in with the head already installed is going to cause problems in the future.  The profile gasket is fidgety enough without the extra burden of having the head in the way.  If you pay attention, think logically and go slowly you can do it without the special alignment tools.

Hmmm, that's a tough one.   Wait, here's a place, try this one: http://www.discountacparts.com/auto_air_conditioning_compressor.htm

Used?  Try www.car-part.com .

First thing I would do is, remove all the belts and run it briefly to see if anything changed.  If the noise goes away, it's either the alternator, PS pump, water pump or viscous fan clutch.  If you still have the noise with no belts on, the next thing to check is the timing chain and tensioner.  I would drop the front oil pan and see if there are any chunks of plastic or metal.  If so, chain guides are bad.  If not, I would suspect a bad chain tensioner.  They are cheap enough ($30 ish) and an easy task.  It is located near the A/C compressor.  This might also explain the failed A/C clutch diagnosis.  Compressor is hard bolted to the block and may be telegraphing chain noise.

The "torque improvement" is probably just the second stage of the throttle body opening coincidentally with the decrease in grinding noise.  Don't let it distract you, most likely not related to your problem.  Sound change of the noise is probably due to oil thinning as it heats up.

If you haven't seen MikeDE's thread on his M42 rebuild he covers the updated timing swap: http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=13595.msg104100#msg104100

I just replaced my OE O2 sensor with a Bosch 15707 I bought from Amazon for $33, but you can get them from most parts places for about the same price.  The reason I used this one instead of the ones recommended is, this is the same sensor, but the wiring pigtail is much longer, about the same length as the one I removed.  I was hoping I could just disassemble the old BMW connector and re-use it on the new sensor, but the pins themselves are completely different.  However, it still was a very simple matter to replace.  First, I cut the connector off of the new sensor as close to the connector as I could.  Then, I did the same thing with the old BMW connector, but with this one, I cut it a few inches away from the connector to give myself some room to solder.  Then I just matched the colors of the wires and soldered and heat-shrinked them.  This way, the wiring is all new and the solder joints are up near the connector, away from exhaust heat and road elements.  Works great.  The new sensor fits 88-89 Dodge D100, D150 and D250 pickups as well as '91-'92 Eagle Premier along with a few other Dodge products.