Just to be blunt, here's a list of odd things that my lights are doing.
1. left indicator flashes quickly, goes to normal, back to quickly and whatnot on random occasions. I have replaced all of my bulbs, I know that's out of the question.
2. Left indicator signal on the instrument cluster (the green arrow) stays on but does not flash, and when on, the left indicator does not work.
3. Reverse lights haven't worked since I owned the car, nor the fog lights.
4. The rear left brake light doesn't shine as bright as the right rear when my foot is on the brake. Sometimes, the left reverse light may want to work.
5. The light that goes off when the door opens is no longer being sensed unless I manually toggle with the switch but the right door light hasn't worked since I've owned the car.
1991 318is.

Looking for a lower oil pan. I'm located just south of Portland Oregon. Thanks! :)

Check it out on e-bay

Currently @300$$

http://www.ebay.com/sch/absolutdog/m...id=p4340.l2562
http://www.ebay.com/sch/absolutdog/m...id=p4340.l2562








Thanks and happy motoring

Thinking about getting a 14point7 SLC 2. Found a seller on ebay that is including a Bosch O2 sensor. Anyone know what the thread is on the M42's?

Some of you may know me from other forums (Rev, GRM, Dirtyimpreza) where I've been building up a rallycross e30 (1985 M10-powered 318i)

Build thread here, in case anyone cares:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=1#post2791749

Anyhow, just picked up an M42 for my next-winter project swap into the car. Haven't decided if I will just refresh it or do something more extensive. I'll be lurking around here all summer reading up and probably asking stupid questions but figured I'd do a quick intro. More later :)

The engine:




The car it's going into:

Mu car has been running hot recently, creeping past the 3/4 mark. The rad hose on the driver's side is very hot, but the lower hose on the passenger side is not much more than warm to the touch. The radiator itself is about a year old.

I'm guessing that the thermostat is stuck closed.
Is the cool passenger side hose a definite sign of this?

Thanks,
Colin

I tried a search & the Carbonite pop up is blocking it. What gives?

As the title states it is in great condition, not perfect but close. It needs a little bit of touch up on corner, if I get time I have some I will try to put some on it. The pics speak for themselves. I had it on the car but I like my trunk spoiler better. It has a pin stripe that someone painted on, I tried to get it off but could only get so far. Let's start it at 100 or best reasonable offer, not looking to ship but can if you pay for boxing and shipping, might be high due to size.






Tool tray will be included, just not pictured

Just some video from a track day I went to yesterday with my 318iS incase anyone is interested. Engine is stock besides a chip, the suspension is not.

My most entertaining session, trying to keep up with a Porsche that I let by early in the session.
http://youtu.be/1FyRAMRzRGo

Just a morning session with a GoPro HD that I borrowed. Picture quality is pretty good, might have to pick one of these up.
http://youtu.be/nD996ZQFgeY

Hey All,

I was wondering if anyone in the Greater Toronto Area has a 4.10 lsd for sale?
Also i am looking for a set of clean working mustang injectors for my m42.
If anyone has any of the above please contact me.

Thanks

BMW's original option/build sheets are now available online. It's the same information a dealer might share with you, and it's good for every BMW built after mid-1982 IIRC. These sheets are usually stuck to the rear seat bottom, but in many cases the original interior has been replaced.

Just enter the last 7 digits of your VIN at this address:

http://www.rubmw.ru/vincode/eng/

Hi, Joined up after lurking some threads for info. I just picked up my e30 as a project car and will be slowly (very) bringing it back up to daily driver reliable and then modding it I hope. My other car is a Lincoln Mark VIII, it's my current daily and it is also seen in the pic in background. So far I've painted the intake and done the TB heater/mess under intake removal, and now the interior is torn apart to replace bulbs and to track down why the interior lights were dead (switch).

My $1300 318is:

Hi everybody.
Yesterday took measurements of AFM Voltage output (pin 2 and ground).
Looks like:

In Values:
RPM U(V)
0 0,25
800 0,88-1,0
1000 1,06-1,07
1500 1,4-1,43
2000 1,62-1,64
2500 1,8
3000 2,05
6000 4,25
Reference Voltage - constant. IGN - 4.7V, when running - 4.95 V.

Does anybody have an idea if its correct?

And the major question - on idle voltage constantly pulsating from 0,88 to 1,0 V. Can it be cause of unstable idle (pulsating 750-850 rpm)?
Thanks.

So I am hoping to keep a very stock look on the motor I am having built, and one area of concern is the air filter. Being that my new motor can flow close to 50% more air than a stock M42, I am thinking that using the stock air box might not be great for power. Considering how much time and money the new motor is costing, it seems silly to risk power losses from the use of the stock intake when a big cone filter is cheap & easy to fit in there. A stock M42 does just fine from the stock air box & AFM, but this built motor will be getting one of my custom MAF conversions since I think that a somewhat more free-flowing sensor would be beneficial there.

Sticking an open element filter on is no problem. But, a nice stock look (and the fact that the stock airbox IS a cold air intake) would be awesome. I sort of doubbt that the stock size paper panel filter will be good for that much more air flow. Something like an M30 filter might be better. Has anyone ever swapped in the air box from a larger motor?

I've developed a fuel leak that I thought was from a fuel pump hose. After lifting the lid on the pump, putting in a new o-ring, and tightening hose clamps, I found that most of it was spattering from somewhere just out of reach under the floorpan. So I cut a little piece out. The leak moved. Cut a little more, moves a little more. A big, frustrated cut later and what I have is this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/49048493@N06/7173361530/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/49048493@N06/7173361530/
Most of the fuel comes from the piece of floor pan that's bent up. It sprays out in a fine mist from in between the chipped edge of the tan underbody coating and the metal. I guess the leak is actually somewhere else, and it's worked it's way under the coating.
So my question is: where could the source possibly be? It pressurizes real quick and starts leaking as soon as the pump turns on.
Also, I don't have access to anything more than some makeshift ramps, so I can't lift the car very high, and I definitely don't have the means to drop the tank.