8$ for $250 Tool-part 1.

[D. Clay]

I've been replacing all of the bushings and wheel bearings on the rear of my 200,000 mile 318is. For tools I used a $12 set of wheel pullers. They are 6", 4", and 3" sizes from a discount tool store. The rest are assorted bits and pieces from Home Depot. Some of this I saw on the forums and some is improvised. I used the 6" puller to remove the crossmamber bushings as in #1 and used #2 to reinstall them as in #3. The tool is a 2" cap, 1.5" coupler, and a 1.5 to .75 hex bushing on all thread with washers.
http://www.lactnews.com/M42/removersb.jpg http://www.lactnews.com/M42/rsbtool.jpg http://www.lactnews.com/M42/installrsb.jpg

[D. Clay]

For the Rear wheel bearings, I knocked the hub out from the inside with the nut from the outside and the socket. The inner race stayed on the hub. Then the snap ring and the rest of the bearing were knocked out. When installing the bearing care must be taken to not damage it in the process. The bearing goes into the control arm with pressure on the outer race only. After it is knocked in to the rim of the opening the old outer race can be used to knock it in the rest of the way. The hub is installed with pressure on the inner race only. The tool uses the axle nut and socket to push against the hub from the outside and the old inner race is exactly the right size to push from the inside.
http://www.lactnews.com/m42/wbtool.jpg http://www.lactnews.com/m42/outerwb.jpg http://www.lactnews.com/m42/innerwb.jpg

[D. Clay]

These are pretty self explanatory. To reinstall I started with the 6" puller and then used the 4" to finish.
http://www.lactnews.com/m42/RICAB.jpg http://www.lactnews.com/m42/RICAB2.jpg
The differential bushing is removed by putting a hack saw blade though it and then reattaching it to the handle. Cut through it and then tap it out with a chisel. The new one goes in with more bits and pieces and all thread. That way you aren't putting force on the rear cover. I've seen people use all thread like this for years.
Obvious question is why I didn't use solid bushings and braided steel lines. The answer is that the car will probably never see hard competition. The play, banging, and squishy pedal is more a function of 200,000 miles than rubber vs poly. If BMW thought that bushings weren't necessary, they would have reinforced the body for the mounts to save weight. And one last thing I picked up from a track rat E30. The owner had cut out the floor for access to the rear suspension adjustments and brake line unions. A cover of .060 aluminum sheet went over the openings. Next the front with M3 type sway bar links and coil overs.

[sheepdog]

Nice work.

I have been wondering if sometyhing like this would work.

[Eurospec]

You wouldn't mind renting these tools, would you?

[bmwman91]

Nice work. I swear, one can do ANYTHING with enough pipe fittings.

My solution for removing the old bushings involved a little propane torch. My solution for reinstalling stuff was to buy polyurethane bushings and silicone grease.