crank bolt, substitutes for flywheel lock tool

[nomad]

I feel the best option for me is to lock the flywheel and pop the front crank bolt that way. The head is off the engine and nearly everything is disassembled. I'm going to start reassembly soon and need to get this off.

I don't want to shear a bolt in half by getting the wrong type. Any suggestions?
I've seen suggestions to use large screwdrivers, bolts, steel rod etc.

I have some small rebar but I'd have to cut it off first.

should i just get a small prybar and stick it in there?

[kowalski]

http://m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4961&highlight=loosening+crank+bolt

yes you can put a metal rod of some sort in there to hold it as long as its the same size.

[crookc]

So from what I have read on this site, you should lock the flywheel and then remove the 22mm bolt on the front of the crank.

Is this true for an engine still in the car?

Is it a left hand or right hand thread?

Thanks for the help

[nomad]

yes. i'll be doing this soon, when i get a chance, and the engine is in the car. thread is regular thread.

[crookc]

Thanks for the info

[D. Clay]

Make sure the cams are positioned as in this picture. TDC happens twice in a four stroke and it's best to have the cam gears as shown.
1815

[318is93]

Hey. If you get a bolt M8x50 it'll work. I just used a 24" breaker and got my bolt off yesterday. It actually wasnt that hard.

[nomad]

I'll probably get to it this weekend.
I think I'll try a headbolt first.

[Paul Strefling]

Is the hole 8mm?

[318is93]

According to the templates I have it's 7.8? I just bought a good M8 bolt atleast 50mm long, filed down the threads a bit and it worked perfectly for the flywheel lock tool.

[nomad]

I tried a headbolt first but the threads juuuust kept it from fitting.
i have a punch set and used a straight punch slid in there. Worked fine.