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View Full Version : How do you Remove Strut Cartgidge?


mdl76
10-15-2007, 03:59 PM
Looking down into the strut housing I see the cartridge inside looks to have 4 holes in the top that some special tool is supposed fit into to unscrew it. Any idea of where one may buy this tool? better yet, is there a jerryrig way of doing it?

Then I need to find where to buy the tool to install my new bilstiens.
All these "special tools" Sux! :mad: sorry, just venting.

Thanks all!

DZick
10-15-2007, 04:31 PM
What i did was...

1. Take PB Blaster and soak it
2. Grab the Channel Locks (Actually the craftsman robogrip may work better) and twist it off at the edges.
3. The second one i could not get off for the life of me even with the Torch (NOt reccomending) so i took it to dobbs... (they used a SnapOn tool that looked like the robogrip just longer for more force.)

Then i just went home and twisted the rest off with a regular channel locks.

Get ready for a horrible smell when you take out the inserts (atleast mind smelled rancid)

Hopefully this helps

mdl76
10-15-2007, 05:52 PM
you can see the tool in the pic... Bilstien should have included on in the box, they can stamp them out in china for 5 cents a piece.

Thanks you bilstien for making my weekend project a week project. Sorry .. just ranting again.

http://catimages2.sophio.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/imc/images/tn/P30128.jpg

christophbmw
10-15-2007, 08:26 PM
at the dealer we used to just user channel locks (faster than messing with the stupid tool).


Get ready for a horrible smell when you take out the inserts (atleast mind smelled rancid)

old gear old will do that....

mdl76
10-15-2007, 08:26 PM
GOT THEM OUT!!!! i did not realize that was a plastic piece over the top of the housing.

God Bless the pipe wrench!


http://a527.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/32/l_ebcd0610bf95f2bf91d1384c587c3416.jpg

D. Clay
10-15-2007, 08:40 PM
^
Man triumphs using opposable thumb.
My feelings exactly. Archimedes only needed a lever to move the world, A vise, pipe wrench, hammer and chisel will do in a pinch.

mdl76
10-15-2007, 09:02 PM
does anyone know what that silly round white plastic piece that came in the box is for?

Belstein says nothing about it in the directions... They also say refer to diagram but there is no diagram in the instructions...

rsafier
10-15-2007, 11:10 PM
I never had the tool in the box. I have always had luck with PB-Blaster, about 1 minute of heat and then take a chisle and 4# sledge and hit it off. generally a couple good wacks and then it will turn by hand.

Febi Guibo
10-16-2007, 10:37 AM
http://a527.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/32/l_ebcd0610bf95f2bf91d1384c587c3416.jpg

photo of the year, do you hear me people?!

RED IS 91
10-16-2007, 07:46 PM
He's ready for UFC !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Use some wrenches ,,,,,,,, there's no need to just rip out those struts :eek:

Bunta
10-16-2007, 08:59 PM
does anyone know what that silly round white plastic piece that came in the box is for?

Belstein says nothing about it in the directions... They also say refer to diagram but there is no diagram in the instructions...

It holds the boot on. Its a tight fit so lube it up.:D





Hunter

asubimmer
10-16-2007, 09:00 PM
yup its for the boot

mdl76
10-18-2007, 01:20 AM
It holds the boot on. Its a tight fit so lube it up.:D
Hunter

I figured it out after I looked at it for a second.

mdl76
10-18-2007, 01:20 AM
photo of the year, do you hear me people?!

I was so happy I got them out I told my girl to take a pic...

http://a854.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/34/l_15665c88a0629bafefa1f74daf403015.jpg

Colo318IS
08-18-2008, 02:43 PM
more insight for a future reader with the same issue...

I was replacing my front struts as well with new inserts. Mine had, oh about 17 years worth of rust caked on (evidently they had never been changed before I got it)...so I was unable to get that collar off with vise grips and PB blaster. What I did was take mine to a shop I trusted...they heated them up and they came right out. While I wouldn't personally heat them up myself, I did trust them to do this. (just note this option if a shop says you're gonna need a whole new strut housing) Heating it up didn't do any damage to the internal threads...a 12 pack later I was out the door!

nomad
08-18-2008, 03:42 PM
I hit the threads with PB blaster for a bit. After removing the springs I clamped a big C clamp to the spring seat, in line with the strut direction, and I stood on this to hold the strut housing steady. I had a big pipe wrench and gave the handle some hits with a BFH and it loosened right up. Not easy but not terribly hard.

P Zero
08-18-2008, 05:17 PM
I dont have a pipe wrench, but what I've done a couple of times in the past is to use a vice. After you've removed the spring, put the strut upside down in the vice, usung the vice to clamp the threaded cap. Clamp it nice and tight but be careful not to bend the cap. Moving to the bottom of the strut (which should be sticking up), find some extension bars or other similar tools that you can stick in the holes that the track rod end and control arms fix to, then use a big bar stuck between them to turn the whole strut and undo the cap. It works really well but its hard to explain :p

nomad
08-18-2008, 05:55 PM
I need a vice so bad.

romkasponka
08-19-2008, 03:19 AM
My wrench on the ground.
http://www.ipix.lt/thumbs/20257364.jpg (http://www.ipix.lt/desc/20257364)

nomad
08-19-2008, 11:08 AM
I have the Billy Strut wrench. Worked perfectly and was quick.
Guess I should rent it out to people since they don't sell it anymore.

AcSchnitzer318is
08-19-2008, 12:27 PM
Big ass pipe wrench worked for me as well...

max123
01-07-2009, 08:17 PM
I had the same issue. Tried the vise - didn't work, tried heat - didn't work, tried wd-40, didn't work. Even tried the chisel - just ended up cutting the collar off. Long story short, I finally got the insert out by using a pair of channel locks + a mallet. This may sound stupid, but a good pair of channel locks can take the abuse, and it only took 3 or 4 hits. Clamp the channel locks on to the collar and hit the handle so that the channel locks tighten. This was the only thing that would have worked - I even tried taking it to a machine shop and they couldn't even get them out. Also, the problem with a pipe wrench is that it slips, and even if you get a good grip you just end up twisting the strut around - even in a vise the thing won't stay put (and a vise can damage the strut). Stand on the disc brake and whack it loose.