What brake setup are you using?

[Pedro]

Besides stock rotors and pads what brands are you guys using?

Has anyone had any problems using slotted or cross drilled rotors?

I would like some slotted rotors but i dont know what brand to get and ill most likely use EBC green stuff pads.

[asubimmer]

I have zimmerman front crossdrilled's and hawk hps's. Pretty good setup for the $ imo.

[Pedro]

where did you get your zimmermans from?

[asubimmer]

they were put on right before I got my car, but I'm pretty Korman has some.

[BrandC]

I wouldn't go with anything except stock/OEM rotors. Cross-drilled/slotted rotors will have a higher chance of cracking since there is less metal to dissipate the heat.

In essence, you're paying MORE money for LESS brake rotor material. Most people will argue that there is a difference in performance. I think they need to read a physics or chemistry book. Or better yet, drive your car hard on a track and then see if you prefer more rotor material or not.

[asubimmer]

I've driven mine very hard and haven't cracked a rotor yet. I really doubt they will either. The holes are to disapate the gases that build up between the pads and the rotors which if left would dramatically raise your stopping distance....

[shellback]

stock rotors, pads, blue ate, s/s lines
works for me

[///Motorsport]

When I get around to fixing and upgrading my brake setup, I'm going with some SS lines, fluid, brembo replacement rotors and not sure about pads. Should I get a caliper rebuild kit?
Also thinking about saving and saving for a bbk from UUC, there's a thread about it under 'e30 BBK?' on b.f.c. costs about 1100 but it increases rotor size and has 4 pot Wilwoods, supposed to be pretty damn good for an e30.

[achtungE30]

I wouldn't go with anything except stock/OEM rotors. Cross-drilled/slotted rotors will have a higher chance of cracking since there is less metal to dissipate the heat.

In essence, you're paying MORE money for LESS brake rotor material. Most people will argue that there is a difference in performance. I think they need to read a physics or chemistry book. Or better yet, drive your car hard on a track and then see if you prefer more rotor material or not.


While I agree with you on getting OEM / solid vented rotors over drilled and/or slotted - i must say that cracking of a rotor is due mostly in the quality or fabrication of how a rotor was drilled or slotted. The cheap ebay rotors that are drilled after casting will crack, whereas cast-drilled during the formation of the rotor is less likely not to crack. The other drawback to drilled/slotted rotors is when you have to resurface as this will be more expensive / timely job to do.

[sheepdog]

I have heard of good rotors cracking as well. Brembos in particular.

On street car, stock rotors should be more than enough, especially when combined with some good pads and stainless lines.

As for pads, I really like the Axxis Ultimates. They last forever (I expect to get 30k from them at least), grip great even when cold, and have good initial bite. Only had them fade once and that was under extreme circumstances and they still stopped fine. I am putting them on my other car soon as well.

[silverblades181]

stock rotors with pagid pads. If I ever upgrade it will be to SS lines and Massive brakes from Lee, that and a bigger master cylinder. My friend has that setup and it's track proven...very good product.

[Pedro]

who has the best price on SS brake lines?

i'm still undecided on the pads but i would like to go with ones people have already used and can tell me they have good experience with them.

slotted or cross drilled would be nice but would most like be used for looks as of right now. ill probably end up getting a higher quality OEM.

[gunsmoke]

check out www.turnermotorsport.com 99$ for ss brake lines and 55$ for Hawk HPS pads. you won't find better prices for those products...

[318-is]

I have ATE power discs at the front, pagid fast road pads all round (i think they're grea) and motul RBF 600 brake fluid; im saving up for braided hoses. Iv recently acquired a 25mm 750i brake servo; not exactly sure what is involved with fitting it or it will be any decent or if il need a brake bias

what MC's are you guys running?

[Choking Hazard]

OK,
I BS you. I really like my e-bay unknown brand slotted totors. They are drilled and chamfered. The bling factor is really high, and when I apply the brakes (not "breaks") there is a neat buzzing sound of pads on the rotors. I'm not going autocrossing soon so I'm not worried about actual structural failure.They were only like $15 or $20 each to drilland stress release. I've had 'em about a year and have no warping or cracking yet...

[gimpy9195]

Front - zimmermans & pagid
Rear - ate & pagid

i like it, you can hear the pads grab when they are cold but once they warm up then the squeaking starts.

[Jbrough]

From everything I've read about the advancement in brake pad design drilled or slotted rotors aren't needed. Weren't they originally used to direct the gases coming from the brake pads?

Anyways, I have stock calipers, stock rotors, stainless steel brake lines, and some decent pads and I think the whole system works fine.

[gunsmoke]

So i've been looking around and i cant find it anywhere... is there a write up on installing stainless steel brake lines? i'm getting them for christmas, and i'd really like to install them. if anyone can help me out, i'd appreiciate it...

[Awgy]

I have Brembo Slotted rotters w/ EBC red stuff pads and they work great on the track. They get the job done in the cold. I live in CO and we just had a 30" drop of snow a few days ago and no probs with the brake set up. I have had the set up for about 7 months now.

[dhirsch]

I'm running stock rotors all around, Pagid street pads, SS lines, the 7series mastercylinder and Pentosin racing brake fluid

I've done two track days a bunch of autocrosses and love this setup. The 7series MC helps keep the brake pedal high which really helps me blip the throttle when downshifting....

[D. Clay]

I have a completely stock setup with the exception of a master cylinder from a 1992 750il (25 mm). I put it on when I needed a new one. It's also cheaper than the E30 OEM part. A new one is $120 from FAP99.com 0r $130 from BMAParts.com. The E30 part is $200 plus. It makes a bit firmer pedal. I was never really happy with the feel and pedal travel of the OEM brakes.

[kowalski]

I'm running drilled and slotted rotors, with ebc greenstuff. I'v got ATE super blue brake fluid with SS lines. Feels good, but i think my booster is shot.

[2002maniac]

Stock rotors with good pads and clean high quality fluid will stop very very well.

Even for serious track duty all you really need to change is the pads. A set of hawk HT10's with a well maintained stock brake system will throw you through the windshield.

[nickmpower]

did the wilwoods just help with fade? im sure the car must stop faster above a certain speed

[sheepdog]

did the wilwoods just help with fade? im sure the car must stop faster above a certain speed

Your tires determine the ultimate stopping power you have. As long as the ABS kicks in, you have plenty of power in the brakes themselves.

Bigger only helps with fade.

[2002maniac]

did the wilwoods just help with fade? im sure the car must stop faster above a certain speed

nope. Bling only :D

My original thought was that I would be able to use aggressive street/auto-x pads all the time and fade wouldnt be an issue because of the larger rotors.

Unfortunately I was wrong. With sticky race tires, I still had fade toward the end of a 20min session using Hawk HPS pads.

Stock brakes with Hawk HT10 or other "track only" pads would have been have been better.

The wilwoods loaded with HT10's is overkill. I'll need 500hp before I run out of brakes again. :p

[nickmpower]

so it isnt a worth while upgrade? I was planning on doing it at some point. Next time i have the brakes apart im going to weld a peice of tubing onto the backing plate and run some flex tubing from it to the stock brake ducts

[nickmpower]

Your tires determine the ultimate stopping power you have. As long as the ABS kicks in, you have plenty of power in the brakes themselves.

Bigger only helps with fade.

well because you can hit abs at 20 doesnt mean you can at 120

[sheepdog]

well because you can hit abs at 20 doesnt mean you can at 120

Yep, those people panic breaking at 120mph get me every time.

[2002maniac]

so it isnt a worth while upgrade? I was planning on doing it at some point. Next time i have the brakes apart im going to weld a peice of tubing onto the backing plate and run some flex tubing from it to the stock brake ducts

Ducting would be a good idea but a BBK is overkill.

As far as pads go. OE Pagid or Jurid pads have great bite and resist fade very well. The only downside is that they dust like crazy and may squeek a bit.

Mintex pads dust much less but the stopping grip is about 1/2 step down from OE.

Hawk HPS are my favorite street pads period. They dust very little and no squeeking at all.

[jajou318]

ATE Powerslot fronts
O.E> ATE rears with pagids all around

4/6 ss brake lines cause i was lazy and it was getting late =/

[Fife318is]

Im currently running ATE powerslots up front with stock rear rotors and Axxis Ultimate pads. Ive got stainless lines waiting to go in this spring as well as the 25mm master cylinder and some SuperBlue fluid.

Even without the lines and MC the car brakes awesome. When I first drive the car in the morning the pads need a stop or two to warm up but after that they reign the car in like crazy.

[mikesjo]

Ducting would be a good idea but a BBK is overkill.

As far as pads go. OE Pagid or Jurid pads have great bite and resist fade very well. The only downside is that they dust like crazy and may squeek a bit.

Mintex pads dust much less but the stopping grip is about 1/2 step down from OE.

Hawk HPS are my favorite street pads period. They dust very little and no squeeking at all.

Would Hawk HPS up front make up for the Mintex Reds in the rear then? I'm thinking about doing this. Stock brembo rotors.

[2002maniac]

Would Hawk HPS up front make up for the Mintex Reds in the rear then? I'm thinking about doing this. Stock brembo rotors.

yes, I ran that setup for a while until I melted the Mintex on the track.

They were great on the street.

[romkasponka]

My next mod will be http://www.bmwstyle.ru/index.php?mid=manual_tormozae30

Calipers from BMW E38 6 cil engine
Brake disc from Mersedes-Benz w124 E500 320мм

But I will try to do it on stock disc.