Author Topic: Stomp Test Requirements (Read 8823 times)

DesertEagle · « **on:** October 13, 2009, 08:06:51 PM »

Hey,

I am trying to fix up a 1991 BMW 318is that belongs to my sister. It only has 100K miles but was left sitting for a year. I would like to perform a stomp test.

The car starts, but will stall when the ignition is switched from "start" to "run" unless I rev the engine. Once the engine reaches operating temp, the car will idle, but roughly. It seems the car is searching for its idle speed and the RPM changes constantly between 500 and 1000 RPM.

The Check Engine Light is NOT illuminated, however. I know the fuel, temp, RPM and Fuel Economy gauges work. I don't know whether the speedometer works. I know the parking light, brake fluid, battery, oil, and service indicators all work.

I am using a jump starter attached to a dead battery to start the car. The battery will not charge, even though a multimeter reads 13.8 volts between the terminals when the engine is running.

How do I troubleshoot the unresponsive check engine light, so I can get some error codes from the ECU?

Thanks for the help!

quinn11m20 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 13, 2009, 08:26:49 PM »

Ok. Turn the ignition switch to "run" and press the gas pedal all the way down 5 times within 5 seconds. Repeat until the CEL (check engine light) Starts to flash. A sequence would be something like FLASH 3 second pause, FLASH 1 second pause FLASH FLASH pause, FLASH FLASH FLASH pause Flash. By counting, the code will be 1 2 3 1. Or an all clear fault code. 1444. Follow? Good luck.

RED IS 91 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 14, 2009, 02:29:15 PM »

I assume that when you turn your key to the on position the light is not on ?
If this is true then maybe it's just the bulb that is burnt out.
If the light is on then follow the instructions from quinn and report back.
good luck

DesertEagle · « **Reply #3 on:** October 14, 2009, 05:21:52 PM »

Quote from: RED IS 91;79889

I assume that when you turn your key to the on position the light is not on ?
If this is true then maybe it's just the bulb that is burnt out.
If the light is on then follow the instructions from quinn and report back.
good luck

I've never seen the Check Engine Light illuminate. Not when I follow quinn's instructions, when the key is turned to accessories, on, or start.

Does the fact that I'm using a jump start attached to a dead battery matter? Does the car have to be put in gear?
Can I remove the instrument panel and watch for pulses of current where the Check Engine Light would be?

Thanks for your help

RED IS 91 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 14, 2009, 07:18:11 PM »

When you turn the key to the on position(not starting)but the first position the dash lights should light up i.e. brake lights,low oil pressure light and so, the check engine light should also be illuminated. If not then I suggest that you remove the "Instrument panel" (Cluster) and check the bulb .
Search is your friend as the cluster removal has been covered quite a few times.Very easy to do.

quinn11m20 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 14, 2009, 08:02:30 PM »

Red Is is correct about the CEL.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #6 on:** October 14, 2009, 09:04:56 PM »

The rough idle is a gummed up IAC (Idle Air Control) valve, vacuum leak or erratic sensor. Did you change the fuel filter? Those can plug if the gas has been sitting. Run some injector cleaner through it too, Techron or SeaFoam have good reputations.

The bulb is burned out. You'll have to pull the panel. It can be removed with the airbag wheel in place but it's a monkey puzzle.

Here's a quick tutorial:
1. Remove driver's lower knee bolster & kick panel...
2. The plastic trim along the lower dash has two knurled alu nuts holding it on from the back. Twist off and the pry the panel out. They're surprisingly flexible.
3. The panel bezel comes out next...remove the screws & pull the bezel.
4. The cluster is ready to come out...remember it's delicate & expensive, so if you can't figure it out, pull the steering wheel too. You'll get it, it's just a little rough.
5. Pull the wiring harnesses & lights out, test & repair as necessary. There are two big ones that you can get a an auto parts store, but the little ones are a dealer trip or an EBay purchase.

Search for something like 'T5 bulbs' & you'll get some hits. Would be a good time to try LED substitutes if you're in the mood for experimenting.

RED IS 91 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 15, 2009, 12:33:09 PM »

I found this ,It even has photos .Good luck

http://bmwsport.net/content/view/474/100/

DesertEagle · « **Reply #8 on:** October 17, 2009, 07:12:55 PM »

I really appreciate all the help. Here's where I'm at...

I used the procedure at http://zoso.no-ip.org/318i-dash.html to remove the instrument panel. The instructions worked well, but I would note that I bought a 21mm socket only to find that it didn't want to seat on the nut. (The nut is unusual and has a circular top edge and face.) Instead, I used a 7/8" (Go USA!) socket and a long pipe for leverage to break the nut free. It had a white compound covering the externally visible threads, and a blue compound coating the internal threads. But whatever, I won...

So after the instrument panel is free, I look at the back cover and see that several bulb sockets are empty, including the check engine light.:mad: There's a sticker on the back that says VDO 1 394 317. I'm going to see if I can track down some info to see which sockets are supposed to be vacant. Again, thanks for the help so far...

DesertEagle · « **Reply #9 on:** October 17, 2009, 07:15:29 PM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;79906

The rough idle is a gummed up IAC (Idle Air Control) valve, vacuum leak or erratic sensor. Did you change the fuel filter? Those can plug if the gas has been sitting. Run some injector cleaner through it too, Techron or SeaFoam have good reputations.

The bulb is burned out. You'll have to pull the panel. It can be removed with the airbag wheel in place but it's a monkey puzzle.

Here's a quick tutorial:
1. Remove driver's lower knee bolster & kick panel...
2. The plastic trim along the lower dash has two knurled alu nuts holding it on from the back. Twist off and the pry the panel out. They're surprisingly flexible.
3. The panel bezel comes out next...remove the screws & pull the bezel.
4. The cluster is ready to come out...remember it's delicate & expensive, so if you can't figure it out, pull the steering wheel too. You'll get it, it's just a little rough.
5. Pull the wiring harnesses & lights out, test & repair as necessary. There are two big ones that you can get a an auto parts store, but the little ones are a dealer trip or an EBay purchase.

Search for something like 'T5 bulbs' & you'll get some hits. Would be a good time to try LED substitutes if you're in the mood for experimenting.

I did change the fuel filter. I'll look into fuel injector cleaner.