Who has an aluminum flywheel?

[mach schnell]

Anyone have any aluminum flywheel on their M42, like a JB Racing one?

If so, please post your experiences with it - how do you like it?

Also, what clutch did you use with it?  Is the stock factory clutch OK, or do you need one with more bands to withstand the RPM?

Thanks!

[jrichmond182]

I got one when I burnt up my old flywheel. It imporved throttle responce somewhat and reved quicker, but if it didn't need replaced, there are better performance mods to spend the money on first. I don't remember the exact clutch, but it was a med racing clutch I believe.  The OEM flywheel has springs in it instead of the the clutch having the springs like most cars. The aluminum flywheel I got was unsprung and it made my clutch rattle with the AC on.

[szed03]

I have a JB Racing ltw flywheel and currently have quite a bit of gear rattle at idle and especially under load (~2800-3100 rpm).  I'm still trying to find a fix for this but I'm starting to think there are no complete fixes.  Running thicker gear oil (Redline 75w140NS) in the trans has helped but the noise is still prevalent.  I'm going to try Redline Heavy Shockproof and a euro 318 non-A/C clutch disc next.  It's a sprung hub clutch disc and my thinking involves adding a bit more coupling flexibility in the driveline that currently isn't there what with the single mass ltw flywheel and solid hub clutch disc.

Unless your car is a race car, I'd find other mods to do.  I do LOVE the rev response and torque though!

If you do go with a ltw flywheel, look into swapping in a 6cyl non-M or M3 flywheel and clutch combo.  

#1 the flywheels are MUCH cheaper (JB, Fidanza, Clutchmasters, Aasco)
#2 there are tons of clutch options.  
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale/aftermarketparts/Flywheels/Flywheels

If I had known, I would've gone this route instead of buying the more expensive M42 JB flywheel.  Oh well, live and learn.

[Hodge]

I have the UUC 11.5# aluminum flywheel and love it.

I too have a bunch of rattling; mostly when a/c is on, OR like szed03 said, in that RPM range it rattles a bit. It freaked me out at first, but then I remembered that I had a solid flywheel with a sprung hub clutch and that it will just make noise.

Overall, I would never go back to dual-mass. It revs signifigantly quicker, the clutch bites hard, and the pedal still doesn't feel any harder than stock.

UUC 11.5# Flywheel
E34M5 Clutch Disc
E36M3 Pressure Plate
E36M3 Slave Cylinder

[nickmpower]

the e36 setup will not fit e30s, but the m20 will, and has a sprung disk

[1991 E30 M42]

I have a metric mechanic m20 steel flywheel, I think it weighs 8.5-9 lbs, no more than 9

[mach schnell]

I have a JB Racing ltw flywheel and currently have quite a bit of gear rattle at idle and especially under load (~2800-3100 rpm).  I'm still trying to find a fix for this but I'm starting to think there are no complete fixes.  Running thicker gear oil (Redline 75w140NS) in the trans has helped but the noise is still prevalent.  I'm going to try Redline Heavy Shockproof and a euro 318 non-A/C clutch disc next.  It's a sprung hub clutch disc and my thinking involves adding a bit more coupling flexibility in the driveline that currently isn't there what with the single mass ltw flywheel and solid hub clutch disc.

Unless your car is a race car, I'd find other mods to do.  I do LOVE the rev response and torque though!

If you do go with a ltw flywheel, look into swapping in a 6cyl non-M or M3 flywheel and clutch combo.  

#1 the flywheels are MUCH cheaper (JB, Fidanza, Clutchmasters, Aasco)
#2 there are tons of clutch options.  
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale/aftermarketparts/Flywheels/Flywheels

If I had known, I would've gone this route instead of buying the more expensive M42 JB flywheel.  Oh well, live and learn.

Thanks for all of the replies!!!

I am not too concerned by the rattling - my 318is is mostly track-driven.

I already have a JBR flywheel, I bought it new from someone nearby - I have not bought the clutch yet, which is why I asked.  

Can I use the stock factory clutch, or do I need something stronger to handle the continual high-RPM use?

Sounds like it will be a noticeable modification - looking forward to getting it into the car!

[szed03]

Thanks for all of the replies!!!

I am not too concerned by the rattling - my 318is is mostly track-driven.

I already have a JBR flywheel, I bought it new from someone nearby - I have not bought the clutch yet, which is why I asked.  

Can I use the stock factory clutch, or do I need something stronger to handle the continual high-RPM use?

Sounds like it will be a noticeable modification - looking forward to getting it into the car!

Yea definitely a very noticeable mod for sure.  There's a good amount of torque that's freed up, so to speak.  

You can use the stock clutch assembly.  It'll be fine.  That's what I'm using and after removing the trans and checking the clutch assembly 2 times this past year, everything looks perfectly fine.  

I personally would go with a sprung hub clutch disc if possible.  This can be found on non-A/C or single mass flywheel models.  Just make sure it's a 215mm clutch disc.  I was going to look into whether an M10 clutch disc would work as it's the same diameter, however I found out that the euro 318 non-A/C uses a sprung hub clutch disc.  It's expensive though, at $128 from Pelican Parts.  It might go a long way in prolonging the transmissions life by adding a bit of coupling flexibility to combat the wide power pulse of the 4cyl.  Don't take my word for it though. :p  I'll let everyone know when I try it.

Another option would be the Centerforce units from Pelican Parts.  I have no experience with that.  Not needed unless you're making serious torque.  By that time it'd be wiser/cheaper/more convenient to go with a 6cyl setup anyway.

Good luck.  Let us know how it turns out.