Author Topic: DIY Short shifter (P/N's, prices, step by step)  (Read 108241 times)

dude8383

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DIY Short shifter (P/N's, prices, step by step)
« Reply #60 on: April 02, 2010, 04:57:59 PM »
Quote from: TooTall90;90304
ancient bump.

just wondering is it required to remove the driveshaft to install the SSK, or is it only needed when you are replacing all of the bushings?


Nah, you should be able to replace everything without having to drop the driveshaft. It will be a little tight but its do-able.


B318M42W

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DIY Short shifter (P/N's, prices, step by step)
« Reply #61 on: May 23, 2010, 05:29:28 PM »
Never mind, found what i was looking for:D
« Last Edit: May 23, 2010, 07:16:56 PM by B318M42W »
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
M90 Blown M42 :cool:

Roman

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DIY Short shifter (P/N's, prices, step by step)
« Reply #62 on: May 24, 2010, 02:09:45 PM »
Z3 3.0 shifter installed in 1990 318is E30


1 gear


2 gear


5 gear


rear gear

PumpItUp

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DIY Short shifter (P/N's, prices, step by step)
« Reply #63 on: May 24, 2010, 06:05:37 PM »
thanks very much for the pictures. i was wondering about how far forward 1st/3rd/5th gear would move (I feared having to reach too far) but I see since the shaft is bent it doesn't affect those gears. Still, I like how the stock 2nd gear feels almost at the drivers waist, and it always makes me wish I had a dogleg gearbox like the MB 190 I drove. That's why contrary to most owners I don't want short shifter. Its not a Porsche after all with the tractor style stick visible down to the ground. The throw isn't that long at all and in my opinion by shortening the shifts you're just throwing out one of the enjoyable aspects of driving.

Could anyone with experience tell me what parts you should replace to give an old e30 the [almost] brand new notchy feel, rather than the 200,000miles sloppy feel. Theres a lot of very small parts down there, above the transmission, which play the biggest role? And can a transmission get so worn that it becomes impossible to retain a new feel? I've never touched a new (out of car) transmission, only really old rusty ones which feel really dodgy with that small amount of leverage...

Roman

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« Reply #64 on: June 18, 2010, 12:26:49 AM »
On my previous E30 i change all bushings. Gear changes got better, but IMHO SSK is better.

My father has MB E220 W124 with M/T. And after my shifter it is too long )

P.S.
Porsche Boxster S 1gen has long shifter ) but changing of gears is more precise than stock E30.

PPS
Sorry for terrible English :(

dude8383

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« Reply #65 on: June 18, 2010, 09:39:09 AM »
Quote from: PumpItUp;92869


Could anyone with experience tell me what parts you should replace to give an old e30 the [almost] brand new notchy feel, rather than the 200,000miles sloppy feel. Theres a lot of very small parts down there, above the transmission, which play the biggest role? And can a transmission get so worn that it becomes impossible to retain a new feel? I've never touched a new (out of car) transmission, only really old rusty ones which feel really dodgy with that small amount of leverage...


-Pick up a brand new shift lever
-purchase the UUC double shear selector rod http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/dssr/#pricing - search around for the right p/n its somewhere here or on R3V 100%
-25117503525
-http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.php?category=e30%20Shifters - Shifter Housing Bushing Set - Delrin

That should give you great shifter feel ;)


TooTall90

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DIY Short shifter (P/N's, prices, step by step)
« Reply #66 on: September 14, 2010, 12:15:57 AM »
looking good up there Roman.  

im thinking about going with the 3.0 ssk as well, i heard some one mention that there is no bending required when installing the 3.0 shifter into a e30 m42.  can some one confirm this?

dude8383

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« Reply #67 on: September 14, 2010, 11:28:46 PM »
Going to be posting up my X5 3.0 shifter soon with a comparo between my Z3 1.9.

This is a taller lever that should still provide the nice short throws that the Z3 1.9 but with added comfort. It will also improve the overall feel when driving the car at the track...shorter distance between your hand and shifter :)


dude8383

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« Reply #68 on: September 18, 2010, 05:39:16 PM »
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hj5dkuxQLr8





Thought some of you might want to see this. I just installed it and I'm in love.

It's perfect, its a tad shorter than the Z3 1.9 Lever but not even close to being as knotchy as the Z4 levers are. Its a good 1" - 1.5" taller than the Z3 lever. I also have the UUC double shear rod installed so everything is nicely weighted now. Also, I had to shave down the area where the lever slides into the uuc rod because it was slightly wider than the Z3, you should be able to see it in the pics above.

It'll be a hoot on the track!
« Last Edit: September 18, 2010, 05:42:42 PM by dude8383 »


e30Andym42

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DIY Short shifter (P/N's, prices, step by step)
« Reply #69 on: January 17, 2011, 01:10:50 PM »
When I was preparing to do this, I had a hard time deciding which shift arm to get.  I could only find a video of dude8383's x5 shift lever and a z3 1.9 shift lever.  I wondered what the z4 3.0 shift lever was like, as it is the shortest of the short.  Well I got the z4 3.0 shift lever so it's time to answer that question for those that want to know:

Here's a crappy pic of the difference:


Before:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jf8QHIAT0R4

After:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVvOZ4cEs1M
Proud owner of "A very cute car" :cool:

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

"Objects in mirror are slow"

lbreevesii

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DIY Short shifter (P/N's, prices, step by step)
« Reply #70 on: February 21, 2011, 10:54:10 AM »
Just a few thoughts on my shifter refresh.  

It has been mentioned that you really don't need all of the parts listed.  Here is my personal short list of what you do need/want:

shifter of your choice
1x 25111220707 $13.73 BEARING, SHIFTING ARM
1x 25111469397 $7.60 each BEARING, SHIFT LEVER
2x 25111220379 $0.70 CIRCLIP ZNS3- updated design, much better than stock
1x 25111434194 $0.50 WASHER, PLASTIC - this is actually the foam insert for the rod joint
4x 25111220439- yellow shim washer

You really shouldn't need to buy the rod joint,  which has jumped in price to upwards of 30 bucks.  If you do feel the need,  buy the MTM one as well as the foam insert listed above.  it costs <20 bucks.  If you buy anything for this area,  buy the foam insert.  If you are careful you should not need the retaining bush for the rod joints pin(pn 25111203682 ).  

Just my .02 to save you a few bucks and get the most out of it.