Author Topic: Help-Rear subframe bushings.  (Read 12244 times)

bmwman91

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Help-Rear subframe bushings.
« Reply #15 on: November 12, 2007, 12:24:29 AM »
Since there seem to be a lot of questions regarding this, here is a cheapo diagram of the assembly.



As for Clay's problem, careful Drememing is one solution.  I do not trust myself with one enough to do it that way.  Depending on the amount of room you have, maybe an end mill in a drill could get it all out.  It is a really crappy situation up there...banging around too much could damage the slot the knurled bolt seats in, and then you would be far, far up shit creek with no boat and no paddles.

06/05/2011 - 212,354 miles
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anisotropy

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Help-Rear subframe bushings.
« Reply #16 on: November 14, 2007, 05:44:56 AM »
Somewhere on here there is a good tip - when you're dropping the subframe (once you've removed the bolt etc.) get a tap -m12 or 14 IIRC and thread it up the middle of the purple bit from under the car. Get inside the car, stick a nut down the hole to save your tap from getting wrecked, stick a bar down the hole and whack it from inside the car with a big hammer. Hopefully distributing the force down the whole tube and not just on the point where it goes into the cars body.
Its actually not that difficult to get the bit out though, once you cut a groove in on one side it weakens the thing a lot.

D. Clay

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Help-Rear subframe bushings.
« Reply #17 on: November 14, 2007, 04:04:19 PM »
bmwman91, that's some diagram. I'm always amazed at how repairs effect my self esteem. When I do something and all goes well I am the crowning glory of human evolution. Then I encounter something like corrosion or strip a bolt, etc. and I'm start feeling dumber than a hoe handle and have nightmares about having to take it to a shop with my ineptitude totally exposed like someone that just got caught masturbating. For day's afterward the "boys down at the shop" are still rolling on the floor at the mere mention of, "Hey, remember that guy last week....."

gearheadE30

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Help-Rear subframe bushings.
« Reply #18 on: November 14, 2007, 08:51:42 PM »
Funny I have the same feeling. Unfortunately, I don't have luxury of having any e30-practiced shops in the area even if I do have trouble :(

1991 318is Turbo
1989 Caprice Classic Wagon named Humphrey
1979 Suzuki GS750E

ScreamerBeemer

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That sucked
« Reply #19 on: November 16, 2007, 01:05:29 PM »
Well I got it. I basically pried on the top of the diff untill it gave, one popped out and one broke. Air hammer and a dremmel worked great. I also got some stainless steel braided brake hoses. So, I installed them and started bleeding the system. As always, start farthest away from the master cylinder. By the time I got to the passenger front, I snapped off the bleeder valve:mad:. Then I thought "I can get that out". Shorly after that I broke the extractor off in the broken bleeder valve.:eek:. Eventually I got the extractor out with the air hammer "don't ask", then I used a bigger extractor. That didn't work either, it wouldn't "bite" down enough and would slip. So, I had to order another one, nobody in the area had one on hand. That was a two day penalty. So I put the new caliper on last night "and it came with a new bleeder valve":D. Then I took it for a test drive, thats the best part.  Huge difference! Its fun to drive again:)





P.S. The parking brake was a PITA.

pbgd3skier

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Help-Rear subframe bushings.
« Reply #20 on: January 11, 2008, 05:14:11 PM »
Quote
By the time I got to the passenger front, I snapped off the bleeder valve:mad:. Then I thought "I can get that out".

You want what's known as break-free CLP.  I know its not the most commonly referenced penetrant (like liquid wrench, or PB catalyst) but break-free is awesome.  
I was working under the 1955 GMC pickup trying to get the brake lines out of the mastercylinder.  Started with the snap on line wrench, started rounding the fitting off despite using a 50$ wrench. So I cut the line off it, and used a socket, rounded it all the way.  Then moved to the vicegrip, rounded it down with a vicegrip, which gave it an interesting texture.  So I pulled the mastercylinder off the frame since the lines were cut anyway, put it in the vice, drilled it to use an easy out, broke the top off, finally sprayed it with breakfree, let it sit fifteen minutes, then redrilled and easy outed and it came right off.
Quote
P.S. The parking brake was a PITA.

ya they can be, someone had used the one in mine as an "E-brake" or a "ralley brake"  which they clearly aren't.  Those 1/2 twist pins that key into the metal behind had pulled out and enlarged the holes, so I had to bend the sheet metal back into place and reinforce it to hold the pins in place.
1991 BMW e30 318i
1980 BMW R80/7

swiss318is

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Help-Rear subframe bushings.
« Reply #21 on: January 25, 2008, 02:33:11 AM »
does anyone have a solution to remove the bushings out of the trailing arms?? a easy solution PLEASE..!!
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]if everything seems under control, you are not driving fast enough

kowalski

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Help-Rear subframe bushings.
« Reply #22 on: January 25, 2008, 02:39:36 AM »
ready rod, and a couple of nuts and washers. should look something like this

--l:--------::l----  the :'s are nuts, and the l's are washers. as you can see, using the leverage of the other control arm you can push the other bushing through.
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swiss318is

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Help-Rear subframe bushings.
« Reply #23 on: January 25, 2008, 02:53:35 AM »
good idea, thanks
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]if everything seems under control, you are not driving fast enough

kowalski

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Help-Rear subframe bushings.
« Reply #24 on: January 25, 2008, 01:33:30 PM »
no problems.
Sale:
EBC Green stuff pads = $60 shipped front and rear set available


Send $ to: kroeker.michael @ gmail.com

Fore Sale Thread