M44 upgrades

[MoMansi]

can we get Ralph to join us?

[Warsteiner]

Ok I'm here.....

Not sure how I can help but I'll do my best.

I don't know much about the M44. But from reading the posts I gather the numbers are confusing.

When different manufacturers list their cams they sometimes list the cam duration at .005" of lift (advertised) and sometimes .050" of lift (actual). They sometimes also list them at 2mm as well. I also think they list them as a pair, intake and exhaust. Off-setting Intake from Exhaust sometimes helps to keep your torque.

So for instance if I list my cams I'll tell you they're 250/250 with 10.287mm of lift. So my duration is 250* at .005"(advertised). The standard in the industry is to call the cam what it is at .050" which then makes my cam a 222*(actual). Schrick 256 cams advertised are 215* actual at .050". I did not offset my cams. Both intake and exhaust are the same.

But the lift plays a part in this too as well as cam timing of events intake opening/ intake closing  exhaust opening/exhaust closing. IO/IC-EO/EC.
This all depends on those numbers for cylinder filling. You can get the actual duration at .050" by having these numbers. Example: my cams are -5.5/47.5-47.5/-5.5  You take the -5.5 + 47.5= 42 + 180= 222.

Other number listed are usually lift at top dead center.(TDC)

Now in choosing a cam, well that's a lot harder than it seems. Most people over cam their engines and then they wonder why their car is slow! LOL
It's because you moved the rev band and lost the torque that actually propels you forward so you can get to the HP. Anyway....this is why I have always said you need to have all the math done before you build because the cams could make or break the whole build.

So....You will need to actually talk to your builder or cam manufacturer to properly size the cam for your engine. You don't want a little 3 cyl Sprint turbo beating you to the checkered flag...hahaha I always thought the Sprint's 0-60 time was 3 days but I was way off...it's only 8.7 secs.

PS..I'm looking into cams now myself but may try advancing the intake cam by 5* first and see what happens. No loss of torque by doing this.

PSS.. more lift and duration means more air...which means more fuel...which means more power, BUT only if you have the compression to support it.

HTH...

Cheers,
~Ralph

[sh123]

PSS.. more lift and duration means more air...which means more fuel...which means more power, BUT only if you have the compression to support it

Out of interest. What if you had the compression to support aggressive cams. But have actually undercammed the engine (thinking my engine may be in this situation)

[Warsteiner]

Well then go for it!! But again, more duration and lift will move your power band as well. It may move 500-1000 rpm if not too aggressive. Also remember the state of your piston reliefs. Are they pocketed enough to handle the lift?

Not sure there is a big deal with not having enough cam other than running out of umpf at the top end.

I know my engine can definitely handle more cam because I top out at like 6900-7000rpm but can rev to 7,500. So I've made all my 212HP by then so no need to run it higher unless you're holding that gear to make a specific corner without shifting on the track.

Dyno sheets help tremendously too. They show you where your engine is running at. New cams will shift those graphs hopefully for the better!

Cheers,
~Ralph

[MoMansi]

Ralph! I can't thank you enough ffir the valuable info, unfortunately I can't cam up the engine now, i will hold the performance modifications, the serious ones for now, did you check the intake modifications i intend to make?
I will either supercharge the engine or make a high performance N/A one, depending on the best drivability and street performance i can get without changing the crank!

For now I'm finishing up the whole car as it was in paint job, but meanwhile I'm studying and reading about the engine.

[Warsteiner]

OK well here is what I found out about Dbilas and their claims.

Here's a detailed list of the complete install possibilities.


Performance kits for BMW M42B18 Engines


Step I : Upgrade to 114kW / 156HP
includes:
- A throttle body injector system
- Complete software update

Step II : Upgrade to 124kW / 169HP
includes:
- A throttle body injector system
- A set of sport camshafts
- Complete software update

Step III : Upgrade to 132kW / 180HP
includes:
- A throttle body injector system
- A set of sport camshafts
- Cylinder head and Valve modification
- Complete software update

Step IV : Upgrade to 140kW / 190HP
includes:
- A throttle body injector system
- A set of sport camshafts
- Cylinder head and Valve modification
- Complete software update
- a/N 2000 control unit to replace the
air flow meter

Supercharging sounds like a blast too!! I wouldn't mind doing a project like that.  However I'm going to lay off the tinkering for a little while.

You're welcome.

Cheers,
~Ralph

[MoMansi]

very interesting, i really appreciate it

i'm more encouraged to do the N/A modification now and stay in the 200 HP area, i'm not really chasing numbers, i just want to get a similar performance out of it like my old S14B20 engine (which was a great engine by the way) but with more drivability and smoothness...

that's my actual goal really

Cheers