Author Topic: Little Help Please (Read 6431 times)

benbimmer357 · « **Reply #15 on:** December 22, 2011, 08:58:45 PM »

Thanks Dave and BMWMAN! I will check this and reply back with my findings. I did the TDC / CAM check but not in the #2 cyl. Thanks for the idea!

Ben

benbimmer357 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 25, 2011, 08:29:22 PM »

http://www.m42club.com/forums/album.php?albumid=187&pictureid=1095
http://www.m42club.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=187&pictureid=1096
http://www.m42club.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=187&pictureid=1097
http://www.m42club.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=187&pictureid=1095

Okay...

Pulled the VC off again took it to TDC, pulled Plug 1 and 2 and measured the distance which came to 8 cm. Looked at the arrows again and they looked aligned but the cam lobes dont, let me know what you think...

Thanks again for the help...
Ben

benbimmer357 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 27, 2011, 08:22:33 AM »

Did the minor adjustment with the tming chain. Put it all back together, was pretty confident that it would start and............. nothing! Same behavior as before acts like it wants to start then never does.... Went back to the fuel pump that the PO said he had installed, pulled it and it looked even older than the car itself, and the sock was split wide open! Ordered a new one and fuel sending unit, so now I am on hold until I get the parts.

I do have some questions....

When I opened the fuel pump area - the tank was full, the gas guage is reading 1/4. I ordered a new fuel sender - does this work in conjunction with the fuel pump?

The inside of the tank is pretty bad a lot of sediment... I will drain it an clean it...

Since the sock was split wide open should I blow out all the lines? If so is there a specific way to do this?

Thanks
Ben

Geoff · « **Reply #18 on:** December 27, 2011, 12:32:54 PM »

I would have to say, after reading all the stuff you already did, that you have finally arrived at the source of all your problems. You do need to clean the tank of all sediment, and at least blow out the lines with compressed air, or replace them, replace your fuel filter, fill with fresh gas, and I bet she starts for you. If not, maybe you could teach the car how to cliff dive, which is what I threaten mine with when it acts up.
Geoff:)

benbimmer357 · « **Reply #19 on:** December 27, 2011, 02:01:58 PM »

Thanks Geoff! I bought this car to tinker with and possibly re-sell but lately it has become my life! Feels like a boxing match and Im losing! I will post the results after I get the parts in....

Ben

bmwman91 · « **Reply #20 on:** December 27, 2011, 11:56:34 PM »

Quote from: benbimmer357;109180

http://www.m42club.com/forums/album.php?albumid=187&pictureid=1095
http://www.m42club.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=187&pictureid=1096
http://www.m42club.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=187&pictureid=1097
http://www.m42club.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=187&pictureid=1095

Okay...

Pulled the VC off again took it to TDC, pulled Plug 1 and 2 and measured the distance which came to 8 cm. Looked at the arrows again and they looked aligned but the cam lobes dont, let me know what you think...

Thanks again for the help...
Ben

Which arrows looked aligned? If you are saying that the arrows on the cam sprockets were pointing at each other, then the cams aren't at TDC. The little arrows on the sprockets are more or less meaningless since you can put them on any which way. The lobes for cylinders 1 & 2 need to point up and toward each other. See the second picture on Brandon P's site for clarification.

http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318istimingchain.html

Now, if your cams are oriented like this, and piston #1 is ~80mm higher than piston #2, then the issue is something else.

I almost forgot to ask. When you try to start it, do you smell raw gas at the tail pipe? If not, check to make sure that you didn't forget to plug the injector harness back in. I have done that once or twice, and it was a real forehead-slapper when I realized what the issue was!

You said that you can hear the fuel pump prime itself, right? How did you check the fusible link? Did you use voltmeter at the small bolt on top of the main +12V block on the firewall? There are 2 separate parts to it BTW, and the smaller black wire powers ALL injection electronics and is separate from the giant 20mm wire that runs up there.

nickmpower · « **Reply #21 on:** December 28, 2011, 02:20:36 AM »

Sounds like the cam and crank sensors are switched? There is fuel and spark, I am guessing the spark is not happening at the right time

benbimmer357 · « **Reply #22 on:** December 28, 2011, 07:00:56 PM »

Checked the fusible link visually tore apart the trunk to find it.

On the plugins for the crank and cam sensors are your wires pointing UP or pointing DOWN? That may help me tell if I have them plugged in wrong.

I cleaned out the fuel tank - it had almost 11 gallons of gas in it!

Waiting for my parts from Autohauz - been a little slow in delivery lately - not getting them until Jan 4th!

When I pulled the plugs they were Fouled badly... I have already replaced them - could be due to old/bad gas...

I will repost after I have them in... Wish me luck!

bmwman91 · « **Reply #23 on:** December 28, 2011, 08:03:49 PM »

The cam sensor goes into the top plug, and the crank sensor goes into the bottom one. The cam sensor plug has the wire coming out of the top, and the crank sensor plug is mirrored / has the wire coming out the bottom.

benbimmer357 · « **Reply #24 on:** January 02, 2012, 03:16:16 PM »

Thanks BMWMAN91 but I have it is a different set up on the e36 body style. They sit right next to each other side by side.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #25 on:** January 02, 2012, 05:28:59 PM »

This diagram at RealOEM makes it look like the crank sensor points down, and is closer to the driver's fender. This diagram makes it look like the cam sensor points down as well, but makes it look the same. There's a channel piece on the left of that diagram that makes me think it's not represented correctly. I have no clue, and I took a long look around the web for some hints.

I can't believe that nobody knows this offhand...Worse comes to worse, just tone out the right wires at the DME/ECU/Motronic connector. Don't do this with the DME plugged in, it'll likely fry it!

Pull the DME connector and run a continuity test from the cam & crank wiring harness pin #1 to the following DME connector pins:
44 Camshaft sensor input BK
67 Crankshaft input sensor BK
68 Crankshaft input sensor YL

I'm not 100% positive that this is the e36 harness, but I'm pretty sure they're nearly identical so hopefully it'll give the right answer.

I know you didn't ask, but I have a dumb way of making sure I get this right given my short attention span and daft memory...I bought myself a $1 pack of small multi-colored zip ties at the dollar store; I use one on the sensor and a matching one on the harness. Never failed me yet (and shows my toleration for all the world's peoples). It's especially useful on the temp/oil sensors on the side of the head.

benbimmer357 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 07, 2012, 06:15:02 PM »

Okay, new pum and sending unit installed. New relay, just in case. No start. I moved the coil plugs wires to 1 3 4 2 and it started! What the heck? It ran really rough and would hold an idle but it started. Can someone please tell me what is going on?

While it was running a large amount (1/4 cup 3 minutes running) of oil leaked out of the front passengers side of the engine is that a crank seal?

Thanks for all the help - I think I am getting closer... maybe....

Ben