Finally got my 250k engine with a bad #1 cylinder out and installed another one that had 82k on the clock. I ended up getting the engine for $693 after taxes. Got the engine out in 6 hours, and pulled the tranny with it still attached, frankensteining the new engine with the old and the reinstallation took about twice as long. Engine ticked super loud as start up, but got quiet after about 20 minutes of idling. I am having MANY codes pop up that I didnt have before like 1215 (but Im using a cone filter now, maybe thats the problem), 1222, 1223 (this sensor, and the other one are brand new),1224, 1225/1226 (I used the KS's that came on the engine because I always got a 1226 code on the old engine, maybe these 2 arent any good), and then I got a 128? Plus, I cant clear them for some reason now. Ill clear them, supposedly, and then turn the key off, then back on, check for my 1444, but the codes flash right away again?!?
This is weird because I used all of my old sensors except for the knock sensors, and both of the coolant sensors are brand new. It almost seems like my wiring is screwed up in the octopus of wires, but my temp gauge does work. Ill have to work out the kinks this week.
As for the M20 flywheel swap, where do I begin. I used an 88 M20 FW, a stock M20 clutch, a Euro 323 TOB, and a 88 M20 starter. I wanted the FW lightened, but the shop didnt have time, so they just resurfaced it. I drilled out the old spacer off the M42 flywheel and then drilled out one of the holes on it so it would fit over the crank dowel. Even with the spacer I had to shave off the lower rear main seal bolt brackets, no big deal. The starter bolted right up and works fine with NO modification to it at all.
Even though I only saved 4lbs overall by switching it over, I can say there is a noticeable difference in all gears, but it really rips in 1st and 2nd. It even rips nice burnouts now and chirps second real hard. It has slight vibration at 1200 RPM's at acceleration and deacceleration, but nothing too bad. I am having a slight idle problem right now, but it comes and goes, so I cant directly relate it to the FW being that I am still working out the kinks on the engine. I will update as I solve the problems.
Oh, and for anyone I talked to before about Boosting this car, that idea is out the window after tearing it all apart, my talon is WAAAY easier to dismantle and a cinch to get parts for. Im just gonna gut it and slowly turn it drag only. I need to just keep the 318 reliable and comfy for when the DSM breaks down.
Topic: Finally swapped in another M42 and did my M20 FW swap - E36 (Read 1875 times)