Author Topic: profle gasket, searched. (Read 3125 times)

redroan351 · « **on:** June 10, 2007, 04:07:51 PM »

Hey, '91 E30 318is m42.

Have searched but couldn't get the picture that was posted to come up, I am a little unsure why the head has to come off. Is it because of the crank shaft not letting the oil pump cover housing push up against the bottom of the head enough to make the seal. I won't have any problem mechanically, but time money. Though it's not my car, I definitely don't like comebacks.

Perhaps an update on the sealing wihtout head removal. However there is a very little amount of pitting on the inner cover. The TSB says jb weld or cold compound, anyone with experience?

Thanks alot, Roan.

D. Clay · « **Reply #1 on:** June 10, 2007, 07:28:52 PM »

Try here:
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1265
The pictures are missing but perhaps sheepdog still has them. BMW has a special tool the resembles a wide putty knife. It's shown in the repair manual.
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964&highlight=repair+manual

D. Clay · « **Reply #2 on:** June 10, 2007, 07:35:50 PM »

This tool should be very easy to duplicate.

sheepdog · « **Reply #3 on:** June 10, 2007, 08:54:43 PM »

Odd, not sure why the pictures disappeared.

I will fix that.

Update: Seems the site decided it did not need that picture.
I will have to check my archives and see if I still have the original.

In the meantime, instead of the "special tool" they show, try about a 8 or 10 thin feeler gauges. Worked for me, and much easier than pulling the head.

redroan351 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 10, 2007, 10:29:26 PM »

I swear I have searched and never been able to find any repair manual stuff. And it was on the FAQ paige. Huh.

Thanks for the info, these links are great, so I guess just kinda slide it all up in there bottom first.

Also I haven't found much on the instalation of the oil pump internals kinda confused why it matters if they move.

Thanks again you guys are rad.

sheepdog · « **Reply #5 on:** June 11, 2007, 01:03:42 AM »

Quote from: redroan351;27538

I swear I have searched and never been able to find any repair manual stuff. And it was on the FAQ paige. Huh.

Thanks for the info, these links are great, so I guess just kinda slide it all up in there bottom first.

Also I haven't found much on the instalation of the oil pump internals kinda confused why it matters if they move.

Thanks again you guys are rad.

That is the hard part, it cannot go in top or bottom first, it has to go in almost straight. Which is why you need the tool or feeler gauges or...

Do not think this will be a breeze, but it will not be impossible either.

Oh, and use lots of silicone just in case.
I also recommend a spray on gasket sealant for the gasket behind the timing chain housing and the upper pan gasket. These three are a hassle you do not want to repeat.

redroan351 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 11, 2007, 10:20:41 AM »

Looks like there's a bit of pitting on the inner cover and on the head. I might be doing that head gasket after all. I'd be too afraid of coolant leak and I'm going home to California for a couple weeks and don't need this thing waiting on me when I get back.

I already need to put a motor in my Acura Legend, and have rebuilt the transmission in my Ford Lightning, and have an a/c job waiting on me, and my girlfriend's sister want's...he he. Anyway you get the picture. Guess I'll go get some head bolts.

Thanks again, Roan.

redroan351 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 11, 2007, 06:26:02 PM »

So I am about to repair the pitting in the inner cover and the head with JB Cold Weld. Any advice on the cover part. It's all around that middle part where the cover and head mate. Not sure how to shape those edges, I suppose with a razor.

Yeah, so I yanked the head. Why not. I only took off the throttle body and got to the lower intake bolts with a wiggler. I'm glad I did. Didn't take but 20-30 more minutes, everything was already off. just kinda wanted to get further today.

Thanks all.