Control arm replacement...

[jajou318]

Ok so I've got new control arms and bushings I want to install..

I started with the drivers side, I thought might as well get the one that is easier to get to first.

Took the bolt off the strut, the sway bar linkage and lollipop bolts.

Now I go to take off the nut that's above the frame and I break it loose but now the thread is spinning as I try and take off the nut. I think I may just take this to a shop to get installed =/

[318idol]

Just place your floor jack under the ball joint and lift it into the frame/strut/tie-rod.  That will add enough resistence in the taper to keep it from spinning.  I just replace control arms yesterday.

Also, for EVERYONE doing this on a M42 318i/is, the trick to undoing the passenger side middle ball joint nut -- you know, the one under the exhaust headers -- is a 22mm wobbly impact socket.

SK Tools makes a low-profile 22mm wobbly socket for impact wrenches. I had to slighly bend that motor mount exhaust shield.  Then stack together a bunch of extensions, afix the wobbly socket and try and get it over the nut.  It's still tight going, but once you get the socket partly on, hit the extensions with a hammer enough to force it on.  My nut was very close to the rubber edge of the motor mount.

Then use an impact wrench or long breaker bar to loosen the nut.

This tip comes from my friends at BimmerHaus Performance in Broomfield, Colorado.  http://www.bimmerhaus.com

The only downside is that the 22mm wobbly is approximately $25 -- worth every penny, I might add.  It also makes the driver's side easy to remove, too.

Good luck.  Gary in Portland, Oregon, USA

[318idol]

When replacing the control arm bushings/Q-bracket, a few tips:

If you're installing brand new control arms, don't bother pulling off the entire Q-bracket/bushing, just fish a hacksaw blade through the opening in the bushing and saw through the rubber and yank off the Q-bracket.  Then saw through the outside metal ring of the bushing just enough to release the pressure and hammer what remains of the bushing out of the Q-bracket.

Then, take the new control arm bushings and Q-brackets to a BMW shop and have them press them in.  They did mine for free.  You can do it a vise, but I don't recommend it.

To install the bushings onto the new control arm, use dishwashing detergent.  It really worked for me, much better than WD40 or silicone spray.  You can even wrestle it on all the way on by hand, or get them started and use a large socket that is larger than the end of the control arm -- a spark plug socket works -- and hammer it on.

But!!!  Remember to install the correct side of the Q-bushing facing forward so the recessed holes are towards the frame and the bracket tab fits flush.  Don't ask me why I mention this.  

Gary

[jajou318]

damn lol, I didn't want to have to buy a bunch of tools just yet >.<

better now then never i guess.

by wobbly socket do you mean something like this:
http://www.whatsyourconcept.com/itemDetails.asp?itemID=403 ?

[e9nine]

Don't be intimidated. Put your floor jack underneath the nut as mentioned earlier. For the d.side you can use a combo of socket, extension and a swivel u-joint. You can even get away with a stubby wrench from Sears. The very first time I did this - I used the stubby wrench all through :rolleyes:

If you're doing control arms and bushings - why are you taking off the strut? Are you using any write ups? Don't make this any more complicated than it is. Bear in mind we all have to start at one point so don't give in and take it to a mechanic just yet unless they're going to do it for free

[jajou318]

Well I am somewhat mechanically declined lol. I did do my suspension myself so I figured this shouldn't be any tougher. I've been meaning to up mytools since I've misplaced/lost/

I'm not taking the strut off as there is no need to. I'm just disconnecting the 4 points the control arm is connected: strut, sway bar link, subframe, and bushings.

The driver side one I got loose it just kept spinning and I didn't think to put the floor jack under it. As for the passenger side looks like the heatshield for the motormount gets somewhat in the way.

I need to get me some tools anyways... so I'm planning on getting some big ass extensions so I can just do this topside

[jajou318]

Finished the installation. This time I was more prepared and everything went smooth had them both done within an two hours I think. Only ran into one problem which was getting the passenger side control arm actually off the strut. I had to take off the brake caliper and hit that with a hammer but other then that it went swell.

I ended up using a 20" extention with a flex attachment on the end with a crow foot wrench.

Didn't get to test out my THR cabs though as it is raining.

Thanks for the jack tips it worked well!

[tjts1]

I'm having trouble separating the control arm from the strut on the driver's side. All the bolts are out and the control arm is completely separated from the body. I've been banging with a pickle fork at this ball joint for what seems like an hour. It simply won't budge. The ball joint connecting to the body came out easy but this one is being a bitch. Any tips?






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EDIT: Ok sorry you can ignore the question. WD40 FTW!

[Bunta]

If your not reusing the Control Arms just beat them out with a hammer.  Hit Right on top of the ball joint.  You can do it the same way, but leaving the nut on and hitting it if you dont want to damage the threads.  
A pickle for will tear the boots most of the time.  Thats why just beating it out works well if your reusing the CA. But a ball joint tool is still your best bet.
And penetrating oil makes it all go easier. I Just pre soak everything with liquid wrench/PB blaster the night before.




Hunter