Can't get check engine light to go away

[tfrain]

I replaced the blower motor in my e30 and whilenI had the firewall covers off I cleaned the icv. Put it all back together and started it up fine. Idled for a few minutes then it threw a check engine light and would still idle but if I revved the engine it would die upon return to idle rpm. Turns out I had a cracked hose that I knocked loose that runs from the intake down to that connector under intake that I believe runs over to the icv. I fixed hose with electrical tape temporarily, restarted and it runs fine. Took it for a drive and all is well. Did stomp test and got the 1262 for icv still. That is the only code. I can't make the cel go away. Tried all the stomp stuff like holding down for 10 or 15 seconds. The cel just cycles through the same code over and over. One time, it got to the point where it went to a short blink followed by a longer blink and I thought I had cleared it.

Everything should be good with the car now, but how in the hell do I clear the light!!!!  Frustrating!!

Thanks!!
Tom

[DesktopDave]

If you're sure it's fixed, the only way to clear that CEL is to reset the DME's stored codes. Annoyingly, that can't be done by shorting pins at the BMW diag plug.

I'm told that you can clear codes by doing a stomp test, waiting for all the codes to flash out, waiting for the '1000' end of codes blink pattern, then hold down the gas pedal for over 10 seconds. Then you should see an all clear 1444 on the next stomp test. That's never worked for me, not sure why (most likely sheer incompetence  ). Pelican has a better explanation here.

You can also invest in an OBD1 code reader. I'll admit it...I've used a cheap eBay Chinese serial diagnostics adapter along with CarSoft 6.5 to reset CELs. It has a converter box and plugs into the round BMW Diag connector. They claim that it'll work for SRS lights too, but I haven't had that much luck with it. CarSoft 6.5 needs a real RS232 serial port on a WinXP laptop to work properly. Most USB serial adapters won't work. On top of that, the box I have seems very random about working with 90s BMWs. I've had luck with my E30, but haven't gotten it to work with my E34 535i setup (in my E24) nor any E36. Here's a great thread about making that work over at BFc.

Of course, later OBD2 cars are a lot easier. On newer BMWs (post-96) I've used a cheap Amazon OBDII BT adapter connected to the Torque app on my phone to reset CELs. Works great!

I'm told that disconnecting the battery for a half-hour will also work, but I'm dubious.

The best way is to use a genuine BMW dealer's GT1...but I'd bet most dealers do not have functional GT1 any more.

[tfrain]

I finally got it cleared. I stomped the piss out of it all ways possible last night after disconnecting the battery. I did it again this morning and FINALLY got the 1444 code. I guess I wasn't holding my mouth right (most likely because it was full of beer)

[tfrain]

And thanks for reply Dave!!!