Author Topic: M42 build complete -- tranny install problems (Read 2851 times)

lionheart3104 · « **on:** November 29, 2011, 07:00:19 PM »

Hi all,

I've finished a stock rebuild of my E36 M42. It's on the hoist and ready to go -- but now I'm having major issues getting the automatic tranny attached.

Here's what's happening:

1. Seat the torque converter.
2. Carefully attach the tranny to the engine and tighten bolts so that bellhousing is flush with the engine.

At this point, the TC is pressed up against the flexplate -- no gap. The TC cannot be rotated by hand, due to the contact. If I loosen the housing bolts slightly, then I can rotate the TC. Also, with the housing flush, I can't turn the engine over by hand.

The Haynes manual says: "Once the engine and transmission have been mated, it is no longer possible to turn the torque converter to allow re-alignment". Does this mean that contact between the TC and the flexplate is OK?? Shouldn't the engine turn over if this is properly installed?

I'm at a loss. A shop looked at my trans/TC and said the TC is seating properly. Any ideas as to what's wrong?

Thanks in advance.

vpilarry · « **Reply #1 on:** November 30, 2011, 09:18:28 AM »

I assume you know you have to attach the triangular drive plate to thr TC with the 3 bolts, right. Loosen the housing bolts to rotate the engine or TC to obtain proper alignment and install the 3 bolts. What do you mean you "can't turn the engine over by hand"? Could you before? Turning it from where, the flex plate? I would install as described above and see it you can rotate the engine by engaging the flex plate starter teeth with a screwdriver and prying against the bellhousing opening.

lionheart3104 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 30, 2011, 02:26:47 PM »

When the housing is bolted flush, I can't crank the engine by hand (using a 1/2 inch drive 2ft long breaker bar on the crank bolt). If I loosen the housing a little, then it will turn. Should the crank be easy to turn this way after tightening the bellhousing?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #3 on:** November 30, 2011, 03:55:59 PM »

I'd do it your way too...definitely make sure nothing is binding up before you wire up the starter...

I've never put an automatic back in; I have no idea. I'd figure something is binding on the input shaft or pilot bearing, but an automatic doesn't even have them, right?

vpilarry · « **Reply #4 on:** December 01, 2011, 09:19:08 AM »

Just not that familiar with E36's. Have you asked your question on Bimmerforums or other E36 sites?

vpilarry · « **Reply #5 on:** December 01, 2011, 11:45:05 AM »

After doing a little digging I have to ask - are you SURE you got the TC back onto the trans all the way? There is a spline or set of teeth between the TC and the drive pump in the trans that has to be aligned/fully engaged to allow the TC to be fully seated. You have to rotate the TC while pushing it onto the drive to get it all the way on. From what I read if its fully seated there should be a small gap between the front of the TC and the flex plate prior to installing the 3 flex plate/TC bolts.

lionheart3104 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 01, 2011, 01:07:41 PM »

@vpilarry -- Unfortunately, I'm sure its in all the way. The TIS manual says the distance from the TC mounting plates to the edge of the bellhousing should be ~30mm and mine is. I also took it to a transmission shop to have them verify that it's going in all the way -- they verified that it was in fact, fully seated.

Could it just be the angle at which I'm putting it on? It's such a pain since the trans is so dang heavy, plus the engine hanging on the hoist makes drawing the two together at the correct angle difficult.

Any ideas as to a better method for putting this on?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #7 on:** December 01, 2011, 04:29:02 PM »

Are you using a tilt bar with your lift? If I pull the rad out of my e30 I can put the motor straight back in.

I didn't have a tilt bar, so I used an HF come-along to ratchet the rear of the motor up & down with my M20. Made it much easier.