Yep. It's a right bitch to fix those lines. They run too much pressure to patch with epoxy, and they snake all over the place. BMW did make some even worse, especially the self-levelling system on the e24's and e32's. Don't worry too much about breaking the hard line, surface corrosion usually looks worse than it is. I usually brush it off with a green or blue 3M pad soaked with WD40 to see how bad it is.
Even if you do break another section, it has to be done. This a good place for shortcuts. Even if you/passengers/other people don't get hurt you'll likely be out a car if you miss a spot.
Dean is right...I hope you got a decent "bubble" flare tool (
like this one), tubing cutter and maybe a tubing bender (they're cheap and work outstandingly well) along with the compression fittings and poly coated mild steel line. Carefully cut the rusted section out, and splice a good piece of line into the system. If the brackets are seized, I'd use a Dremel to grind off the screw heads or cut the rusted section of hard line out. If you do it that way, make sure you use the tubing cutter to make a good straight cut on the lines and remove any burrs before attempting to flare the end. Lube that flaring die with light oil or brake fluid before making the flare and make sure the line is correctly aligned. If the cuts aren't perfect the flare tool won't work. It's not easy but it's worth it. Then ziptie it all back on and see if it'll pass inspection.
BTW the "bubble" flare is the Euro method, it's different than the Japanese (ISO?) and older US (double flare) methods. I hate those little phillips-head screws BMW uses on brake clips. What did they save, like $0.09 a car from not using 8mm bolts?