Author Topic: CEL and wierd idle (Read 5385 times)

BMWGM42 · « **on:** September 05, 2009, 06:09:36 PM »

hi guys,

i've searched this on e30tech, r3v, and here.

did a little spririted driving on the freeway and the CEL went on. drives just fine now as it did before it went on. got it home and noticed the idle dipps and rises. nothing drastic though. soemthing that wasn't there before.

any ideas?

thanks

-G

Ramblin MAn · « **Reply #1 on:** September 05, 2009, 07:50:50 PM »

I've got dibs on a vacuum leak. What is the code being given. I've got dibs on a vacuum leak.

roundel318 · « **Reply #2 on:** September 05, 2009, 08:22:13 PM »

vacuum leak around the ICV even? lol

BMWGM42 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 06, 2009, 01:34:59 AM »

Quote from: Ramblin MAn;77968

I've got dibs on a vacuum leak. What is the code being given. I've got dibs on a vacuum leak.

i was thinking that its a vaccum leak. i haven't been able to diagnos it and check the code yet. it was pretty late when i got it home. all the hoses and lines seem to be in very good shape. the overall engine bay is clean. i'll get a code tomorrow.

thanks for the input

-G

PS> hate to sound like a noob but where is the Scan Port? i don't remember seeing one inside the car anywhere...under the hood? i can use a universal scanner right?

BMWGM42 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 06, 2009, 07:55:59 PM »

UPDATE:

tinkered aroudn with the car all day. had to give it a tune-up anyway.
i checked all of the vacuum lines and they are all brand new and sealed the way the should be. i havne't scanned the car yet to source the code. which scanner do you guys use? im thinking ICV. this only happens at idle.

thanks

-G

Ramblin MAn · « **Reply #5 on:** September 06, 2009, 08:16:09 PM »

Scanner. HAHAHAHA! Sorry dude, sit in the car, turn the key to on, floor the gas pedal 5 times fast then watch the check engine light blink the codes. The intructions and codes are in another post. Look over the different sections and you will find the info.

Gerta318is · « **Reply #6 on:** September 19, 2009, 10:38:22 PM »

Hey all:

Total noob here ... bought a little project to work on with my sons. I had just finished swapping a diff and took her out for a drive and then the following happened:

What I do know:

Engine idles appropriately at startup and engine rpms do not fluctuate (listening only � Tach is not working).
No backfiring
Filled up with Premium Shell Gasoline (92 octane) � tank is full.

CEL comes on intermittently � on the way home it stayed lit then the symptoms began:

1.    Loss of power � pedal to the floor, 4th gear, 50 mph and power loss occurred
2.   Lugging with intermittent CEL � this happened multiple times (4 times) getting on freeway and before.
a.   Car would be driving normally
b.   Cel comes on solid
c.   Engine begins to lose acceleration
d.   Within 4-6 miles power loss � lugging
e.   Pull over to side of road� shut car off
f.   5 0r so min� start car
g.   Cel off
h.   Starts fine�idle ok
i.   Repeats

Just starting my research and came across relays, but any other suggestions?

Thanks, Gerta.

neo1985 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 30, 2009, 01:19:28 PM »

Hi everybody. i got the exact same problem as well.. is it the sensors? CPS? TPS.. hmmm

Systema · « **Reply #8 on:** October 31, 2009, 11:55:47 AM »

If it helps, I've got a problem similar to gerta's. CEL comes on, but if I floor it or take my foot off the accelerator completely, it goes away for a minute before coming back. Intermittent power loss, especially on acceleration in the first two gears. CEL is throwing up 1244, camshaft position sensor. I replaced that with a new unit, but the problem hasn't changed.

neo1985 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 02, 2009, 01:55:10 PM »

i have the similar problem... except i got a code 1223 which is coolant temp sensor... and my engine sounded like a tractor now. massive loss of power on 1st and 2nd gear. but over 3000 rpm seems smoother.. but i dont know why.. can anyone help with similar issue?
and this happens COLD ND HOT.. aiiii.. help me!!

Wizard · « **Reply #10 on:** November 06, 2009, 05:58:47 PM »

Neo...I have the same problem. Mine runs fine after it warms up...Only has yo-yo idle when cold...Going to throw in a new Coolant Temp Sensor early next week and will let you know if that fixes the problem...

Dan

neo1985 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 06, 2009, 06:35:50 PM »

Quote from: Wizard;81013

Neo...I have the same problem. Mine runs fine after it warms up...Only has yo-yo idle when cold...Going to throw in a new Coolant Temp Sensor early next week and will let you know if that fixes the problem...

Dan

Thank you Dan... mine was running fine after warm up the first few times.. and after few days.. now it lose power specially first two gears as well.. but even pass 3000rpm still No power... and makin those chokin sound.. please let me know what does coolant temp sensor would do!!
hope u can fix ur problem

DesktopDave · « **Reply #12 on:** November 10, 2009, 07:53:14 AM »

I hope somebody solves this...there's a nice black e36 318i 5-speed with the same troubles that I might snap up if it's a cheap fix. $800 here in Pittsburgh if anyone wants me to take a quick look. Seller sounds cute too.

Wizard · « **Reply #13 on:** November 13, 2009, 01:52:41 PM »

Update...
My problem basically started when my car just DIED...The fuel pump would not come on unless I jumped the relay (forgot to check that BEFORE I replaced the fuel pump). Checked the ohms going to the Crank Position Sensor and found out it was reading low (around 500ohms and should have been 650)..After replacing the CPS car started right up, but had an up and down idle at cold temps, but smoothed out after it warmed up. I changed out the temp sensor ( Part # 13621709966) and that fixed my idle problem. I have to note I also added the COP kit at the same time but that didn't have anything to do with the idle fix..
As a side note, also make sure that the electrical plug on your fuel pump is good. After doing all the repairs the car still would not start..Was giving me fits until I started to wiggle the connector at the fuel pump. It may look good and seems like it has a good connection but trust me, it may not. I fabricated a new plug using butt connectors (the blue 16-14 Gauge ones will snugly fit onto the fuel pump prongs) and a 2 pole plug from Radio Shack:
HERE IS THE PLUG
Not sure if any info here helps out but is a good place to start...

Dan

neo1985 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 19, 2010, 08:16:13 PM »

im taking my car to a shop tmr.. let ya'll know what the mechanic is goin to say about it...
i hate my car being like that.. and im goin to fix it!!