idles but won't rev?

[doitover]

Long story but I managed to install the crank hub in the wrong position. I have fixed that, ( I think ) and now the engine idles, but very roughly and it will not rev above idle. It is like the throttle isn't connected.

I'm about to pull it all apart again to see what I've done to the key and to fix an oil leak that is coming from the timing cover, but if there is something I should check other than timing, I'd like to fix it first.

Any ideas? The engine ran fine before I fixed it, by the way.

I suspect that I destroyed the key and that the hub moved while I was tightening the crank bolt.

Thanks,

[kowalski]

might want to check into that, do a compression and leak down test. see if your valves are actually shutting, and if your getting compression.

why did you try to fix what wasn't broken? what makes you think you broke the key?

[doitover]

Not an interesting story, I had fixed some bad hoses that that were keeping it from idling. While doing that I noticed it had an oil leak that looked like it was coming from the front seal. So I decided to fix that and take the AC condensor fan out and put in an electric puller. All that went well except for finding that the leak was probably from the timing cover. By that point I was in a hurry to get it running. So I put it back together and in my haste I didn't line the crank hub up with it's key. I didn't realize it until I tried to start it and it wouldn't. Sounded like the timing was off. Then it occurred to me that the torque had held at about the same level for a few turns of the crank bolt, kind of like I was crushing a key. Oh crap. Took it apart and I had mashed the key into the hub.

I didn't really have anything to lose at that point so I put it back together, this time with the hub on the key, I thought. I'm guessing it slipped off in the process of getting the pulleys on and tightening the crank bolt.

So, like I say it starts on the first crank but idles poorly and won't rev. I wouldn't think it was the timing but I didn't touch anything else.

I need to fix that leak anyway so I'll take it apart, check the timing chain, replace the guides and tensioner and hopefully find a painless way to remove the key and replace it.

Unless someone has an insight into something else to check.

I do intend to check the compression. I don't think I lost any metal in there but it's possible something got in the chain and I've damaged the valves.

[nicknikolovski]

When you took of the crank bolt did you pin the crank and cams?

If you didn't, how do did you losen the crank bolt? I ask this because you may have thrown the timing out. Does it run like a diesel?

[doitover]

No, but I didn't remove the lower cam gear, just pulled the hub and replaced the seal.

I loosened the crank bolt by bolting a steel bar to one of the pulley bolts and holding that down with one foot while turning the crank bolt.
Is it somehow possible for the timing chain to shift? It is still on the key isn't it?

When you took of the crank bolt did you pin the crank and cams?

If you didn't, how do did you losen the crank bolt? I ask this because you may have thrown the timing out. Does it run like a diesel?

[nicknikolovski]

Ok, what to do, take off the valve cover. Then rotate the crank by hand until the 2x cams line up to TDC. Front lobes pointing towards each other and arrows pointing up. Also the square ends on the cams should be parallel with the head. Then if this is correct, try inserting a drill bit just below the starter into the bellhousing to lock the flywheel. If you cannot insert the drill bit or flywheel pin at this position your timing is off. Do this first, then we will go from there.