Author Topic: Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!  (Read 7247 times)

elementskater_xx

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Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!
« Reply #15 on: April 28, 2008, 06:23:29 AM »
Ok well I am not the brightest I guess it's 16 valve 8 for intake 8 for exhaust. And i also found this out. Not to sure on what it means in my situation yet but I am sure i will find it helpful.
Valves : Seat angle: 45 degrees
Valve stem to guide clearance: 0.020"
Inlet: Solid, stem diameter 6.975mm/0.2756", head diameter 33mm/1.299"
Exhaust: Sodium filled, diameter 6.975mm/0.2756", head diameter 30.5mm/1.201"
Seat diameter: inlet = 31.6mm/1.244", exhaust = 29.1mm/1.146"
Seat width: 1.4-1.9mm/0.055-0.075"
Valve clearance : None, automatically compensated by hydraulic tappets

elementskater_xx

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Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!
« Reply #16 on: April 30, 2008, 07:52:15 AM »
Ok so i finally started on this project..(damn job taking up my time). I have read judt about every post on this site and i do have to say i have obtained alot knowledge thro everyones posts. I got all the way up to getting the manifold bolts off. Then the head bolts will be removed tonight. I am going to rebuild the head valves guides the whole 9. It really was not as bad as i thought to remove this stuff (lets hope i put it back togethor right). I want to replace the injectors mine look bad. I read the posts on the mustang injectors. I think i can achieve that. I will be putting up alot of pics tonight on my rebuild and design thoughts for everything. My car was built 03/1992, for some reason my body looks alot different than most peoples i see for the year my car was manufactured. I hope my engine is along the same lines. Just thought i would give you a update and let yeah know your time was not wasted and i appreciate everyones help. From what i can see at 273,000 miles nothing has ever been done to my car. Except body work.

bmwpower

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Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!
« Reply #17 on: April 30, 2008, 05:09:15 PM »
Yea, post up some picts.

kowalski

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Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!
« Reply #18 on: April 30, 2008, 11:36:50 PM »
Quote from: elementskater_xx;48219
Ok so i finally started on this project..(damn job taking up my time). I have read judt about every post on this site and i do have to say i have obtained alot knowledge thro everyones posts. I got all the way up to getting the manifold bolts off. Then the head bolts will be removed tonight. I am going to rebuild the head valves guides the whole 9. It really was not as bad as i thought to remove this stuff (lets hope i put it back togethor right). I want to replace the injectors mine look bad. I read the posts on the mustang injectors. I think i can achieve that. I will be putting up alot of pics tonight on my rebuild and design thoughts for everything. My car was built 03/1992, for some reason my body looks alot different than most peoples i see for the year my car was manufactured. I hope my engine is along the same lines. Just thought i would give you a update and let yeah know your time was not wasted and i appreciate everyones help. From what i can see at 273,000 miles nothing has ever been done to my car. Except body work.

Your car should be an e36... is it not?
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peerless

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Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!
« Reply #19 on: May 01, 2008, 01:25:46 AM »
How familiar is this post?

I had a car 318is towed in the other day. The customer complained that it made some noise that sounded like the timing chain. It stopped running on him.

I started a tear down and found the chain guide rail has busted into pieces and collected in the bottom of the chain case. One of these pieces got into the crank gear and jumped the chain a few teeth. The cams where in time, not the crank. The engine would only turn about 90 degrees and lock solid, back 90 degrees and locked solid.

All 8 intake valves are very bent in that they are all stuck open about 2-3mm and every piston shows contact for every intake valve.

Sounds like you encountered the same exact failure.

As a note, I have noticed these M42's are metal munching machines as they like to eat steel quite a bit. My first experience with a M42 was my buddy's. His oil pressure relief valve seized, lost all oil pressure and the engine grenaded. 3 holes in the block, one in the upper oil pan. The next M42 we purchased to rebuild ate the thrust bearing and the thrust surface of the crankshaft. So a another crankshaft was needed. So we ended up using parts from 3 M42's to rebuild 1. And then the M42 towed in as mentioned above. M42, the metal munching machine. yum yum! :)

I have quickly learned these engines have 4 common failure modes, 1) Timing component failure 2)Oil pump cavitation failure from loose oil pan bolts 3) Oil pump relief valve failure from seizing 4) Crankshaft thrust bearing failure.
Robert


www.e30motorwerks.com
(714) 398-8405

elementskater_xx

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« Reply #20 on: May 01, 2008, 06:08:32 AM »
It is a 36/42. I spent all night on 2 exhaust manifold bolts. Man I am still working on them. I will keep ya posted.


Yeah my next missio is to pull the oil pan and mess with those bolts.

Quote from: peerless;48260
How familiar is this post?

I had a car 318is towed in the other day. The customer complained that it made some noise that sounded like the timing chain. It stopped running on him.

I started a tear down and found the chain guide rail has busted into pieces and collected in the bottom of the chain case. One of these pieces got into the crank gear and jumped the chain a few teeth. The cams where in time, not the crank. The engine would only turn about 90 degrees and lock solid, back 90 degrees and locked solid.

All 8 intake valves are very bent in that they are all stuck open about 2-3mm and every piston shows contact for every intake valve.

Sounds like you encountered the same exact failure.

As a note, I have noticed these M42's are metal munching machines as they like to eat steel quite a bit. My first experience with a M42 was my buddy's. His oil pressure relief valve seized, lost all oil pressure and the engine grenaded. 3 holes in the block, one in the upper oil pan. The next M42 we purchased to rebuild ate the thrust bearing and the thrust surface of the crankshaft. So a another crankshaft was needed. So we ended up using parts from 3 M42's to rebuild 1. And then the M42 towed in as mentioned above. M42, the metal munching machine. yum yum! :)

I have quickly learned these engines have 4 common failure modes, 1) Timing component failure 2)Oil pump cavitation failure from loose oil pan bolts 3) Oil pump relief valve failure from seizing 4) Crankshaft thrust bearing failure.

bmwpower

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Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!
« Reply #21 on: May 01, 2008, 09:48:08 AM »
Leave the manifold on the head and remove it in one piece.

elementskater_xx

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Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!
« Reply #22 on: May 01, 2008, 11:02:12 AM »
Quote from: bmwpower;48273
Leave the manifold on the head and remove it in one piece.


I tried the bolts that hold the upper to the lower is rusted so bad it's deterating. Ya know where the upper and lower connect.

nomad

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Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!
« Reply #23 on: May 01, 2008, 02:34:27 PM »
Get it up in the air so you can get under it. you'll probably need a nut extractor for stripped nuts, and hit it with a bunch of heat, sawzall, drill etc.
SoCal, 318is: IT RUNS AGAIN!
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Artem

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Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!
« Reply #24 on: May 04, 2008, 02:45:24 PM »
x
« Last Edit: May 04, 2008, 02:48:38 PM by Artem »
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peerless

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Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!
« Reply #25 on: May 04, 2008, 04:56:40 PM »
Quote from: nomad;48289
Get it up in the air so you can get under it. you'll probably need a nut extractor for stripped nuts, and hit it with a bunch of heat, sawzall, drill etc.

My friend Colin ended up going this route. After about 3 hours of fussing and cussing, I simply handed him a sawzall and told him to cut the damn pipe in half just past the O2. 3 minutes later, done!

When we reinstall it, it will only take a beer can and 2 hose clamps to get it to the exhuast shop to have rewelded for $10.

In a normal cylinder head R&R or engine removal, the fastest way I have done the M42 manifold was to simply grab a air ratchet and hit all 12 studs on the head and the header fell off the head. 10 minutes.

Work smarter, not harder!
Robert


www.e30motorwerks.com
(714) 398-8405

elementskater_xx

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Timming Chain replacement..PLEASE HELP!!!
« Reply #26 on: May 04, 2008, 06:50:45 PM »
I finally broke them free . I got a set of sockets for stripped nits and bolts. It worked out. I have my head being re-done right now. Should get it back on wensday.