Author Topic: Erratic fuel gauge? (Read 3972 times)

Frankie · « **on:** March 21, 2008, 02:22:01 AM »

What seems to be the problem since my fuel meter is sometimes showing full tank and suddenly it drops to nill or sometimes it even shows correct level?

Some one said that it can be bad connection behind the gauge cluster?

nicknikolovski · « **Reply #1 on:** March 21, 2008, 05:49:19 AM »

Could be but then most of your other gauges would not be working.

You could try replacing the SI batteries in the cluster, however I believe you have a failing fuel sender unit.

Frankie · « **Reply #2 on:** March 21, 2008, 05:59:00 AM »

To my undestanding SI batteries do not affect fuel gauge but it does affect service lights. If the fuel gauge connection is bad, can it also affect other gauges?

individualist · « **Reply #3 on:** March 21, 2008, 06:35:11 AM »

On the back of the gauge cluster you will find a single brass nut and washer that holds the fuel gauge in place. Remove the nut and push the gauge off of the two +/- pin sockets to view the solder joints underneath (from the back, you will need to remove the screws holding the clear face plate). If the solder joints are ok, sometime reseating the gauge and tightening the nut will resolve the issue. If this doesn't work, you can go to the bone yard and pull a replacement fuel gauge from another unit.
Good luck.

Selfish · « **Reply #4 on:** March 22, 2008, 08:28:52 AM »

You know, I�ve been having the same issue, but also other gauges aren�t working properly. The speedometer is fine, but my tachometer is stuck on 2500 rpm as long as the engine is running and my temp. gauge is also very erratic. Is it a pain in the neck to remove the gauge cluster? Do I need to remove the steering wheel? I probably don�t have to but it would be advisable, I guess.

individualist · « **Reply #5 on:** March 22, 2008, 09:45:10 AM »

No to the steering wheel. First remove the screws on the lower left trim panel (three screws I believe) let it hang down. Next reach under the dash and just to the upper left and right of the steering column to find two thumb nuts and remove. These nuts hold the small trim piece directly above the steering column. The small trim piece can be coaxed out with a little persistance. Now to remove the cluster bezel, remove the four screws along the bottom of the bezel and two more on the top that screw into the under side of the upper dash. With this completed the cluster can be manipulated out by pulling the mounting tabs on the top of the cluster down so that they clear the inset area on the upper dash mounting location. For me it easier to pull the top of the cluster out first and then the bottom as far as you can. On the back\left side you will have exposed the three locking connectors and four individual wires that provide power to two small light bulbs. Working from left to right, use a small screw driver and pry up on the black locking clip of the first connector, next remove the two wires on the left that are connected to the light bulb. Pulling the cluster a little to the left hand side as you work the connectors out will help to gain access to the last connector on the right which also has the additional light bulb with two more wires connected. In total there are three connectors and four wires. All is color coded which I have memorized but you can make notes if you like.

Good luck