Author Topic: Crank shaft seal replacement? (Read 3970 times)

sand_m4n · « **on:** February 13, 2008, 03:10:59 PM »

As the title suggest my crank shaft seal is bad! and i need help replacing it! can i do this my self? or should i have my local shop do it for me? I have done a fair amount of car related projects but am worried about this one because i heard it is tough; my question is, do you think i should attempt it? If so do you have any helpful tips or links? Or do you think i should simply pay the 150 bucks for the shop to do it?? Any help is greatly appreciated. BTW i have an 1994 E36 318i not E30 :eek: once again thanks :cool:

sand_m4n · « **Reply #1 on:** February 14, 2008, 05:27:08 PM »

plz your guys i am in need of advice

dude8383 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 14, 2008, 06:10:53 PM »

Front or rear?

If its the rear, its going to be a bigger pain...the front is definitely do-able but you will need the crankshaft locking tool!

nicknikolovski · « **Reply #3 on:** February 15, 2008, 04:52:03 AM »

For the front seal you need to pin the flywheel and also the camshafts should be held using the tool, then you need remove the lower timing case cover and you can knock the old seal out. when I did my seal it was fairly difficult getting it to go into the case cover.
I used a socket of the same size and hammered it in lightly with a mallet.

For the rear main seal, you'll have to mark and drop the driveshaft and exhaust. then unbolt the tranny, take off the drive plate or flywheel (depending on trans type) and then replace the rear seal. (also not sure but I think the pilot bearing may have to come out as well. this is much more time consuming and difficult under jack stands.

I would just take it to an independent shop, saves you the hassle unless you're really keen to do it. Good luck

strypt · « **Reply #4 on:** February 15, 2008, 07:30:26 AM »

Quote from: nicknikolovski;42820

(also not sure but I think the pilot bearing may have to come out as well.

No thats not necessary.

FredK · « **Reply #5 on:** February 15, 2008, 07:34:40 AM »

To replace the rear main seal, the pilot bearing does not need to come out.

You can remove the entire rear main seal carrier plate and remove the seal on a workbench. Pressing the new seal into the carrier plate is a lot easier when the plate is out of the car, and the crank isn't in the way.

sand_m4n · « **Reply #6 on:** February 17, 2008, 05:56:59 PM »

Its the rear seal.. for 150 bucks i think this DIY'er is going the independent shop Route

Thanks for all the help guys

Wise Old Dog · « **Reply #7 on:** February 17, 2008, 07:07:25 PM »

$150 for a rear main replacement? Sounds too good to be true. But if this shop knows what they are doing good deal. Now would be the time to do any replacement or upgrades to the clutch.

D. Clay · « **Reply #8 on:** February 17, 2008, 07:59:02 PM »

That's 2 to 2.5 hours labor. That's about right if they are familiar with the car. They'll have a transmission jack, lift, and impact tools. It's an all day job in your driveway with a friend helping. If you can access a flat rate manual, it's R&R the flywheel plus about ten minutes for the seal

sand_m4n · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2008, 05:56:30 PM »

This garage is actually honest,truthful, and fair :eek: I found them after my last encounter with the almighty Bmw dealership. i diagnose my car and they detected a knock sensor was bad; 1200 dollars to fix it they quoted. Im not an idiot so i decided to look around i found a small shop West german bmws & audis garage that charged me 120$ and did it in a hour.