Author Topic: stuck timing chain tensioner, maybe a lot more... (Read 5022 times)

parker575 · « **on:** October 03, 2007, 11:54:32 AM »

Also posted this on e30tech.com, so please forgive the cross posting.

So, fully aware that it's an easy 10 minute job according to the many threads on this site, I purchased a new timing chain tensioner for my e30. However the old one would not come out and it appears to be stuck. It was first tried with a cold engine, so that's not the issue. Is there a trick to getting the old one out?

Upon realizing that I failed in removing the old one I pushed it back in and started the car - this was probably a bad idea. I have a good feeling the timing chain jumped a cog as the car barely runs. But revving it up the engine cleared out and it ran on all 4 cylinders. This is making me believe I didn't crash a piston, however I'm accepting that I'm no mechanic and I might have done serious damage to my engine that's not repairable.

Thought this would be an easy job.

I figure worse case scenario is a new engine (very willing to do so).

What should a decent shop charge to reset the timing and check the engine for damage?

Also, if it is the worse case scenario, what would a shop charge to install a new engine? I've seen a bunch of 1992-95 m42s for sale. What would a 100k engine go for?

Need guidence. I love this car, however have been a m20 engine person in the past and I'm starting to regret going with an m42 car.

So please, make fun of me for my stupidity if you feel the desire. Either way my car still doesn't run and I have to foot the bill. Any kind assistance is appreciated.

Febi Guibo · « **Reply #1 on:** October 03, 2007, 02:09:17 PM »

can you be a little more specific re: "would not come out" ?
(I know this sounds like a dumb question)

anyway... if you feel up to it, open the timing case and take a look, it's probably nothing serious. You can also pull the lower oil pan, because any timing case related issue eventually winds up in the lower oil pan!

can you describe how the car is running now?

parker575 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 03, 2007, 05:48:00 PM »

up around 2000 rpm car runs fine and has power. anything under that it bogs down and has little or no power. also will not idle, dies on any bog down.

reason for changing, increasing clacking sound from engine. No running differences, but car is right at 200k and i know it has not been changed before. Also plan on doing the guides on engine if it's servicable.

my procedure:

1) removed cover nut with 19mm wrench for timing chain tensioner.
2) attempted to pull out tensioner, it came out about 2 cm and then would not give any more. attempted for a long time to remove tensioner.
3) with a little help it did go back in the block and would not spring back out.
4) tightened 19mm nut.
5) started engine, revved it like it was a new timing chain tensioner for 30 seconds at 3000 rpm. no problems let. then it didn't idle and hardly ran.

just had it towed to a trustworthy shop, so hopefully they'll deliver the expected bad news soon.

kowalski · « **Reply #3 on:** October 03, 2007, 06:29:20 PM »

sounds slike it jumped a tooth. not the end of the world as long as you don't keep driving around on it, and it didn't slip enough that it bent a valve. Take it to a shop, a reputable shop of course... get them to check it out, if there isn't anything wrong cept the chain, get them to re-align the chain. since to do it 100% properly they'll have to pull the front case off you might as well get a new chain and guide rails as well as the tensioner and sprockets... its gona be a couple hundred.

Jak318 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 04, 2007, 05:10:38 PM »

If you can get all that done for a couple hundred let me know your supplier! I just bought all the parts for a grand total of $596 including:

11 31 1 721 887 │CAM SPROCKET │ 2.00 │ 36.00

11 21 1 247 338 │CRANK SPROCKET │ 1.00 │ 45.67

11 31 1 727 569 │DEFLECTION WHEEL │ 1.00 │ 69.00

11 31 1 247 470 │GUIDE RAIL │ 1.00 │ 47.00

11 31 1 727 342 │TENSIONER RAIL │ 1.00 │ 88.65

11 31 1 721 419 │RAIL GUIDE │ 1.00 │ 38.00

11 14 1 721 802 │TIMING CHAIN GASKET │ 1.00 │ 9.00

11 14 1 721 919 │FRONT COVER GASKET │ 1.00 │ 4.50

11 14 1 247 837 │T-COVER GASKET │ 1.00 │ 3.80

12 31 1 717 898 │ADJ. BAR │ 1.00 │ 5.50

32 42 1 714 641 │ADJUSTING BAR │ 1.00 │ 7.15

11-31-1-247-160- 1 Timing Chain, 318i/is/iC 1992-98, 318ti 199
5-99

11-31-1-743-187- 1 Chain Tensioner Piston for Timing Chain, E3
0 318i M42, 318iC Brand: INA

Upper and lower radiator hoses - $17.00 (lower) and $12.00 (upper)

Lower oil pan seal � $10.00

A couple of the parts you could skip but wouldnt save much by doing it.
That price was just parts, I'm doing the job myself so no labor expense...

Febi Guibo · « **Reply #5 on:** October 04, 2007, 06:01:06 PM »

let us know how this works out... I sorta suck at diagnosing these things, but what yer describing sounds like an issue with the crank reference sensor...

anyway let us know!

parker575 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 24, 2007, 10:54:58 AM »

It was everything I thought it was, only slipped one sprocket on the cam. Replaced all timing guides, tensioner, etc. bill came out to be $830. I'm not very upset with that, he only charged $300 for labor all together and fixed a bunch of other little things, which was nice. I'd totally recommend this guy to anyone in the Chicago area. Runs perfect and amazingly quiet now.

I'm happy.

EN318isPDX · « **Reply #7 on:** October 24, 2007, 12:33:32 PM »

Quote from: parker575;36486

It was everything I thought it was, only slipped one sprocket on the cam. Replaced all timing guides, tensioner, etc. bill came out to be $830. I'm not very upset with that, he only charged $300 for labor all together and fixed a bunch of other little things, which was nice. I'd totally recommend this guy to anyone in the Chicago area. Runs perfect and amazingly quiet now.

I'm happy.

Congrats, nothing like paying someone else to deal with your problems! Welcome to the club! Time to get some pics up?

Jak318 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 25, 2007, 06:08:26 PM »

Quote from: parker575;36486

It was everything I thought it was, only slipped one sprocket on the cam. Replaced all timing guides, tensioner, etc. bill came out to be $830. I'm not very upset with that, he only charged $300 for labor all together and fixed a bunch of other little things, which was nice. I'd totally recommend this guy to anyone in the Chicago area. Runs perfect and amazingly quiet now.

I'm happy.

$300 is a good price, I got a quote for $400 labor plus parts. Thats when I decided to do it myself.

Sounds like we spent about the same on parts.

gearheadE30 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 25, 2007, 07:18:31 PM »

i did it through pelicanparts.com doing almost the exact parts you did and it came out to be about $350, so that's about right to me.