Author Topic: DIY - painting , transparent color, glossy and flat color.  (Read 24371 times)

91318isfoundation

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DIY - painting , transparent color, glossy and flat color.
« Reply #15 on: June 14, 2007, 09:55:26 AM »
I Heart ABRAX For This Wonderful DIY

i just need a little clarifacation
Quote
4. mix the self made transparent paint well, add the second part of the paint/this which makes the chemical reactions/ add some dissolvent,

is this transparent paint your talking about clear coat?
so i mix the clear paint + color paint(i.e. flat black) and then add some dissolvent? and then spray within ten minutes. i know nothing of painting cars so what iss this dissolvent? or maybe im just retarted help me out bro
« Last Edit: June 14, 2007, 10:20:54 AM by 91318isfoundation »

Abrax

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DIY - painting , transparent color, glossy and flat color.
« Reply #16 on: June 15, 2007, 05:38:20 PM »
generally car paints consists of three intergents...

1. the paint,
2. hardener,
3. dissolvent.

the first is the paint base, the second is needed to start chemical reactions ald help the paint to stick to the painted surface and the third, which is needed to get the proper mixture to spray it well... Usually it is about 18 secs with 4mm Ford Cup... But it may differ with different car paints producers...

Transparent paint - the clear coat or whatever You name it is the last needed paint You spray on the car. - Mix it with the color paint and You get the transparent color paint...

560 km in 3 hours and 5 minutes completely legal!!!                  I love german highroads!!!

kowalski

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« Reply #17 on: June 17, 2007, 05:18:00 AM »
what psi is your sandblaster? usually panels warp due to the high heat and pounding from the sandblaster... just a word of caution to anyone planning to sandblast anything... keep a lower psi and keep the gun as far away as possible.
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91318isfoundation

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« Reply #18 on: June 17, 2007, 08:48:49 PM »
i get it Now! :D

Abrax

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« Reply #19 on: June 18, 2007, 12:18:25 AM »
Quote from: kowalski;27875
what psi is your sandblaster? usually panels warp due to the high heat and pounding from the sandblaster... just a word of caution to anyone planning to sandblast anything... keep a lower psi and keep the gun as far away as possible.


Haha - right... Sandblaster can totally destroy the iron surface... It mainly depend on how big are particles and how big is the sandblaster...

1. The small one: I use it with 10 bars and nothing wrong happens. This one is really small and the energy with which particles are thrown is not really big compared to the pressure.

2. The big one... This is much much stronger. Usually i blast with 5-7 bars, but it is highly too much for big plain surfaces like doors or trunk or anything big. The tranny I blasted with 4.2 bars. It was not causing overheating or any other problems like deformations at all.

BUT REMEMBER:

-do not blast long in one place,
- do not use too high pressure /just raise it from "idle" to the point when everything starts to work just fine and DO NOT RAISE THE PRESSURE ANYMORE.


 I didn't tell You but, my friend wanted to sandblast BMW 327 old classic car, so he has taken it to the guys who usually sandblast bridges or other urban stuff... It was huge mistake... The car needed to be hammered to give it previous shape... All the irons were nicely sandblasted but totally deformed due to local heat and monstrous energy of big amount of high energy big big particles.

They used sand which is 1-5mm in diameter... I use tha sand which is 0.1 - 0.3mm in diameter. Theese are two totally different machines. My nozzle is 3mm in diameter , their nozzle was 18mm in diameter... And they didn't do any try! Just sandblasted the whone car - stupidity can be unlimited. No more comments ;)

560 km in 3 hours and 5 minutes completely legal!!!                  I love german highroads!!!

Choking Hazard

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« Reply #20 on: November 15, 2007, 11:03:44 PM »
The look with flat panals and glossy spoiler is fantastic!  I want to see several pictures of the whole car.  Before wax, I think you should try the dish washing soap like you mentioned.
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fiftytakedowns

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« Reply #21 on: February 14, 2009, 01:56:26 AM »
Im really confused how you refurbished your spoiler.

you sanded it down then used bondo? or some other filler?

Abrax

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back again
« Reply #22 on: February 11, 2010, 03:23:57 PM »
Hi all, I'm back again. Older, better wiser! But I've lost all my photos ;) I mean that I've had them erased from the server, so it will take a while till they are all back (Yes, I'll do it :-) )

Anyway, I'll answer fiftytakedowns. My spoiler was in quite bad shape, so I've replaced it. But the new one was silver, so I've sanded it with the fine 3m 3d mesh( cloth or whatever You wil name it I mean this blue/violet something sold in painters shops :-) ), I can't actualy remember if it was broken or not, but You can't fix the spoiler with a regular putty. You may wish to use special "bumper putty" which is elastic enough to be placed on ABS, plastics or even hard rubber. But the trick is when starting to adhesing anything to plastics or rubbers. It is absolutely a must to use special plastisc adhesive before even putting a putty on it. Otherwise it will simply fall apart.

The BMW e30 spoiler has to have it's inside steel parts completely free of rust as You are unable to derust them. They are put into a rubber!

:-)

560 km in 3 hours and 5 minutes completely legal!!!                  I love german highroads!!!