Engine oil and lifter tick (yes another discussion on this)

[sheepdog]

Ok, for a while I have been swearing on Castrol Syntec 10w30.

When my oil  pump shelled and I repaired it, I put cheap (89cent per quart) Auto Zone crap in it while it flushed anything out of the system. While it ran decently, it seemed a to rev a bit less than the Syntech (same weight). As the cheap stuff aged, it finally started to get a little lifter tick on startup on freezing cold days, which has been typical of this car. I put Syntech back in it the other day. Now, my tick is WAAAAY worse even when it is not freezing out.

I am going to do some experimenting, anyone have anything they prefer?

I know motor formulation changed just after these cars came out, I am going to look into it, that may be part of the problem many of us are having with tick. I know Diesel oil is formulated the old way. In fact that was what they are recommending for the old v8's.

It amazes me that cheap/crap oil seemed to do better though.

[RED IS 91]

I use mobil 1 15/50 high mileage.
187,000 miles and no ticky ticky

[cecotto]

BMW specifies either of these oils for the M42:

Longlife -04: SAE 0W-40
 * 1 liter: 83.21.0.398.504

Longlife -01: SAE 0W-40
 * 1 liter: 83.21.0.144.456

Longlife -98: SAE 5W-30
 * 1 liter: 81.22.9.407.547

Specialoil: SAE 10W-40
 * 1 liter: 83.21.9.407.782

ACEA Specification: SAE 15W-40
 * 1 liter: 81.22.9.407.414

Theres also listed a lot of alternative oils, but i chose not to list that.. I need my sleep tonight :-p

Selection should be based on temperature, here should be a page in your instruction booklet indicating the correct viscosity

[D. Clay]

Originally oil had a weight and that was that. Now with "extenders" there are multi-weight oils. 10w -30 is 10W with viscosity extenders that allow it to  perform as 30 weight. The extenders are the first thing to break down with use. A lot of racers use straight 50 weight as the motor is always maxed. Sometimes a cheap oil will actually be thicker than multi-weight and decrease noise. I have a friend that has an Audi A4 that pumped up the lifters to where the motor lost compression and died on a cold morning. He had it towed to the dealer as it was still under warranty. They drained the Castrol 20W-50 and put in 10W-30 weight and all was well.

[B2thazizza]

Sounds like the problem im having also, maybe ill try that in a week or so and see if my car sounds better.

[1991 E30 M42]

I use mobil 1 15/50 high mileage.
187,000 miles and no ticky ticky

I do too, but I now have 152,000 and a blown motor

[RED IS 91]

I do too, but I now have 152,000 and a blown motor

You don't attribute that (blown motor) to the oil do you ?

[Alpine003]

One thing I have noticed is that certain oils can be "too good" for our motors imo. Some synthetics tend to clean out any and all carbon deposits potentially leading to leaks. Some are also so slick that any nut/bolt that wasn't tightened down to specs will eventually become loose. Some just seep past the rings and burns off a lot faster. All these things have happened to me.

Does that mean it's bad? No, I think it depends on the present state of your motor and will be unique to everyone.

I have yet to find any 0w30 German Castrol at any Autozones around me. :mad:

[D. Clay]

Here in Texas with the higher temperatures (today's high is 80 degrees) I try to find good oil in a straight 30W. If it's May to September, maybe 40W. The only widely available off the shelf brand in single weight is Valvoline Racing Oil in 30W, 40W, and 50W. Sometimes you can find Castrol GP in 50W.

[sheepdog]

BMW specifies either of these oils for the M42:

Longlife -04: SAE 0W-40
 * 1 liter: 83.21.0.398.504

Longlife -01: SAE 0W-40
 * 1 liter: 83.21.0.144.456

Longlife -98: SAE 5W-30
 * 1 liter: 81.22.9.407.547

Specialoil: SAE 10W-40
 * 1 liter: 83.21.9.407.782

ACEA Specification: SAE 15W-40
 * 1 liter: 81.22.9.407.414

Theres also listed a lot of alternative oils, but i chose not to list that.. I need my sleep tonight :-p

Selection should be based on temperature, here should be a page in your instruction booklet indicating the correct viscosity

Yes, the book lists this out, however, a lot of things have changed in oils since that book was written. In fact prior to the late 80's engine oil had hardly changed in the last 100 years. It has changed tons in the last 20 years though.

A perfect example is the fact that when our cars were built, synthetics were very new and not only pricey but only a few manufacturers made it. Also most engines used 10w30 or 10w40, these days most new engines are running 0 weight oils.

The oils the book was written for are pretty much not even made anymore.

[e9nine]

I am one of the minority who uses Castrol 20w50.

[cecotto]

Yes, the book lists this out, however, a lot of things have changed in oils since that book was written. In fact prior to the late 80's engine oil had hardly changed in the last 100 years. It has changed tons in the last 20 years though.

A perfect example is the fact that when our cars were built, synthetics were very new and not only pricey but only a few manufacturers made it. Also most engines used 10w30 or 10w40, these days most new engines are running 0 weight oils.

The oils the book was written for are pretty much not even made anymore.

The BMW document i took this information from is dated 12/2005.  I'm sure it was written by competent BMW engineers.  The weight / temperature scale should not have changed. Also one should not be fooled into believing that the M42 was designed in the era of dinosaur oils. The bottom end is pretty much identical to the E46 M43 equipped engines (ran upto 2002). And i think the head design / hydraulic lifters is pretty modern too.  So if you're having problems even when adhereing to BMW oil-spec. I think you might have other problems than oil quality / specification.

[melloh]

The only thing I know about oil is what my mechanic told me.  he loves this car (he MADE me buy it, in fact.  He even gives me extended "cool car" service and parts discounts) and encourages me to track it (gave me free new rotors and let me use his shop to install them - free).  Also, hes an avid racer (mostly 2002's).  When I asked him about oil, I told him I used Castrol 20w-50 on my e21.  He said that's what he uses on pretty much all his cars.  So, Castrol 20w-50  for me, even when auo-x or a track is in line.  Also note, I'm in CA where temps are pretty mild (from 30 as extreme low, to 110 for extreme hot, but usually somewhere btween 50 - 95).

[mikesjo]

I'm using Castrol 20w50 and have the annoying ticking sound...Prior to using the 20w50, I was using Castrol 10w40 with no tick. GRRrr. I'm going to go back to 10w40 and see what happens.

[sheepdog]

The BMW document i took this information from is dated 12/2005.  I'm sure it was written by competent BMW engineers.  The weight / temperature scale should not have changed. Also one should not be fooled into believing that the M42 was designed in the era of dinosaur oils. The bottom end is pretty much identical to the E46 M43 equipped engines (ran upto 2002). And i think the head design / hydraulic lifters is pretty modern too.  So if you're having problems even when adhereing to BMW oil-spec. I think you might have other problems than oil quality / specification.

Did not realize that was not from the book.

And my engine may have other issues, who knows. Especially ater what happened to it.

Just because the engine was kept the same does not mean it was not designed for other oils. The way you stated that is reverse thinking.