Got a new 318is, questions on fluids, LSD, bushings

[Alpine003]

Everyone's going to give you different opinions on fluids and mods.

But I will caution you from using Seafoam. I've used it on 3 high mileage cars in the past with less than optimal results. Sometimes the carbon deposits in certain areas of the engine is what keeps the engine "tight". You can experience loss in compression, gas mileage, defective sensors, etc from doing Seafoam. On the other hand, I've known people that had decent results. It depends on the state of the motor and whether you really "need" to do it or not. I would just try running some Chevron Techron through it for a couple gas tanks first. That should at least take off the carbon deposits from the valves if you have any.

As for synthetic, visually check for any existing leaks and loose bolts. If you find none, then feel free to try synthetic but be prepared to switch back if you start finding leaks or odd noises from bolts loosening up in the motor.

Do you personally know or trust the work that's been done to the motor? The reason why I ask is I bought a car with a newer head on it and it was done all wrong with the bolts not torqued correctly. Overtime, guess what happened? :rolleyes:

[flypenfly]

I think I'm not going to risk it and just use regular dino oil and not use Seafoam...

The thing is, I just found the car I actually wanted to buy so I may be forced to sell this car just as I freaking bought it right now! (if the deal works out)

[///Motorsport]

I use Mobil 1 in my car, (not knowing there ws a debate over synthetic use in older cars) and no leaks to date in my 150k car.

get Azenis!  http://www.vulcantire.com

[RED IS 91]

"I don't know if I have an LSD or not but I'll ask my friend to do the spin the wheel trick to see what happens. THen I'll order the fluids for that."

When I jacked my car up I did the wheel spin and my tires turned in opposite directions . When I was on the street and dropped the clutch both tires layed about 10 feet of rubber side by side.     LSD???:confused:

[ak96ss]

Hmmm... anything a bit more economical? This is going to be mostly just a commuter car for me with maybe a few auto-x thrown in.

Also, where can I get clips for the airbox?

You can have that old one that's next to the shiny new one if you come to MD and get it!  

And that old one is the one from Bavauto, installed ~40k miles ago.

[flypenfly]

haha aww

I'm wondering if the $200 bav auto one is any decent? I wonder how much a muffler shop would want to put that on there.

[christophbmw]

dont use synthetic. i dont know why people like to use it over crude oil. our motors where not made for it, even if it doesnt leak. the M42 does not really have close tolerances so internally you will be wearing parts out (rod/crank bearings, etc).
use 10-30 for cold climates and 15-40 for warmer climates.

[ecpreston]

dont use synthetic. i dont know why people like to use it over crude oil.

Only because it's better at doing the job? :confused: Sure, for street use, a regularly changed dino oil with decent additives package will do just fine. But under high stress (track use) or if going for 10k+ oil drain intervals on the street, synthetics are superior. No question about it.

And when it comes to trans and diff, the arguement is even stronger. As long as you leave it in, and as little as you use, the extra cost is negligible. Synthetics stay stable over a larger range of temperatures and reduce friction for less driveline loss.