Broken Timing Guide Replacement on My First BMW

[Soul Shinobi]

Gentlemen,

I've come into a 1992 318i (M42 engine) made in 08/92. I got it for a good price because the man who owned it didn't have time to make it the track car he wanted to. It was in the middle of a timing chain replacement because the stock driver's side timing guide broke.  I'm working on fixing that, and need advice on how far to go as well as other things to look out for.


CONDITION:

Engine:

• Head/cams/cam sprockets look new
• Water pump looks new
• Already cleaned out the oil pan and pickup
• Oil pump is off

PARTS:

Have:

• All timing related gaskets
• Front main seal
• All new timing guides (the one that replaces the broken one is entirely plastic, I assume these newer ones are better?)
• New timing tensioner
• New timing chain
• Valve cover gasket
• Coolant (Prestone)

Need:

• Oil (15W40 spec'ed for summer, I plan on synthetic, what do you suggest?)
• Oil filter (11421727300 $10.85)
• Thermostat gasket (11531721218 $1.81)
• Thermostat housing gasket (11531721172 $8.44)
• Water pump gasket (11511714519 $6.96)
• Dipstick tube gasket (11431287541 $1.19)
• Spark plug tube gaskets (11121721476 x3 $1.79, 11121721475 $2.13)
• Oil pickup gasket (11411727662 $2.42)
• Tube under intake for idle air control

Subtotal $60ish


Considering:

• Oil pump (11141714611 $51.5)
• Oil filter housing gaskets (11421709513 $2.88, 11421709800 $2.42)
• Oil pump gaskets (11141743032 or 11141739868 $22.71, 11141247849 $7.94)

Subtotal $84.57


Secondary Consideration:

• Thermostat (11537511083 $47.64)
• Idle gear (11311727569 $137.97)
• Crank sprocket (11211247338 $62.77)

Subtotal $248.38?!


Alright, so right now my question is how deep do I get into the engine, and what else do I look out for? I'm trying to balance budget against the list of "Well while you're in there..." items.

I was on the fence about the oil pump, then my friend removed it behind my back (30 bolts?!) so I guess I'm doing that. Part cost isn't bad but did I list all the ones I need?

So far I've removed the oil pan and cleaned it out along with the oil pickup. Lots of plastic, I only saw a single metal flake. The old timing chain is off, I found specs for the cam holding tool and made one myself so the cams and crank are locked in place as specified by the Bently manual.



I have the Bently Manual and have ordered the Chilton manual and 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series.

I'm on Bimmer Fest, Bimmer Forums, and M42 Club.

I'm told www.pelicanparts.com and www.fcpeuro.com are good places to buy parts.  The prices I've listed here are from www.realoem.com (good part diagrams), but I don't know if there are aftermarket parts better than the OEM ones I've listed.

Anything else I need / need to know?

Thanks!

[monty23psk]

For parts, go with blunttech.com. He can also get BMW parts from the dealer much cheaper than Pelican.

[bigred]

Any information that you need, please do a search.  Im sure that its been talked about already. 
List of items to do.
1.  Change your fuel injectors to  a mustang style.  They have the four pintle as the stock injectors only has one.   Improvement is seen all over.
2.  Check out this topic   http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=16144.msg116877#msg116877 .    It talks about the timing chain cover not lining up correctly.  It will be helpfull,
3.  Carb heater plate delete.  I just completed this, but having trouble with oil and water plugging the vac hose.  I have to do a search to correct this.

Take your time and have fun

John

[Soul Shinobi]

Thanks. I don't mind doing research but I just feel overwhelmed right now and needed a place to start, your tips are helpful!

[DesktopDave]

Sounds like you have this all well in hand.  I might suggest some simple green and a pressure sprayer for cleaning up the grunge before re-assembly...these motors are messy.

I'm not sure I saw the oil gaskets listed, but I'd strongly recommend replacing the oil filter housing gasket and o-ring.  They are infamous for oil leaks.  Piece of cake when you have the motor taken apart, not so easy when it's back together.

I'd also recommend using a non-hardening gasket sealant like Hylomar on the paper gaskets.  It's a non-silicone formula that permits easy sealing, but is still safe for sensors and will allow you to re-use the gasket without it tearing.

[Soul Shinobi]

Thanks for the tips, I did put them to use.

Late update: It's all back together, compression test looked good, and it drives nice. Unfortunately it's leaking oil badly from where the oil pump mates to the block (upper left corner if looking at the front of the block). The gasket I ordered was mistakenly for 94+ engines, though I'm not convinced that's the issue, I recall them looking the same, and they're both steel.  I got the right gasket in (still waiting on other parts) which to my surprise was paper. Not looking forward to taking it apart again but at least now things are cleaner and parts are all accounted for.

Having a hell of a time with the driver's outside door handle (new replacement) and the window on that door, but that's another story, I need to search around.

God I miss working on Japanese cars, they spoiled me so much.   Everything's a learning experience.