Author Topic: M42, but E36 one, not e30 (Read 7328 times)

xploda · « **on:** April 11, 2010, 12:34:13 PM »

Hello everyone!

So basically I am looking to buy an IS, but the e36 one. I need some advices only about cons of e36 IS and possible usual troubles in this model. I saw some comments about vac leaks, ICV & CPS and so on, but really don't know what are those about. I am in Europe, so as you probably think my English is not native one and I don't understand what those ICV, CPS and others means at all.

///digitalme · « **Reply #1 on:** April 11, 2010, 03:56:05 PM »

m42's vacuum leaks, icv=iddle control valve, cps=crank position sensor i believe...major issue with m42's vacuum leaks...as for cons of the e36 i have no clue im an e30 guy so wouldnt know

xploda · « **Reply #2 on:** April 12, 2010, 02:00:22 AM »

Quote from: ///digitalme;90715

m42's vacuum leaks, icv=iddle control valve, cps=crank position sensor i believe...major issue with m42's vacuum leaks...as for cons of the e36 i have no clue im an e30 guy so wouldnt know

Thanks!

Can you or someone else explain a bit about this vacuum leaks? What it means exactly? Something about intake?

carguy101 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 12, 2010, 02:31:19 AM »

A con would be its an E36 not an E30 lol jk
and their interiors don't hold up as well.
The rear shock mounts usually wear out and need replacing or you will have to spend a lot of money to replace your towers due to the shocks going through the rear end, so Z3 rsm plates are good to get.

xploda · « **Reply #4 on:** April 13, 2010, 04:07:18 AM »

Quote from: carguy101;90742

A con would be its an E36 not an E30 lol jk
and their interiors don't hold up as well.
The rear shock mounts usually wear out and need replacing or you will have to spend a lot of money to replace your towers due to the shocks going through the rear end, so Z3 rsm plates are good to get.

Are you talking about "famous" rear subframe damage? Because I saw couple people already fixed this issue on e36 and e46 with not so much money. They spent from 100 to 250 euros for this intervention.

carguy101 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 13, 2010, 03:49:35 PM »

Yes that is what I am referring to, if it is not taken care of quick enough it becomes expensive. Yes it is cheap to do preventive measures but make sure you check it before it becomes an issue

carguy101 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 13, 2010, 03:51:06 PM »

This should help you too

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=311638

Sean_318is · « **Reply #7 on:** April 14, 2010, 11:07:22 AM »

Check the wiring harness where it goes into the boot from the body, these wires fray over time and cause problems all over! Open the boot up and look on the left side. You should see a harness from the boot lid to the body. Peel back the rubber to see what condition it is in and repair as neccesary.

Also, door handles seem to be quite poor on the '36 as both mine have snapped on the aluminium casting that actuates the latch.

As with any car buying activity, check everything and if it feels wrong it is. People like to drive these cars hard

cozmic · « **Reply #8 on:** April 15, 2010, 02:27:36 PM »

Hi not sure if this is of any use but here goes, Icurrently own an e36 318is and have owned 2 e30 318is previously. The e36 is in my opinion a better car than the e30 overall although the e30 is more fun;)
The idle control valve can cause a rough idle problem but removing it ,cleaning it in carb cleaner and refitting it usually cures it (this also happens on the e30. All the air pipes on the m42 engines need to be in tip top condition and the air filter should be replaced regularily.
Early e36 cars can suffer water leaks into the cabin due to seal failures and coupe versions can suffer door and window seal problems.
All in all it,s just a case of having a really good look over a prospective car both are very good cars as a track car the e30 is the better car, as a daily driver the e36 is maybe just that bit nicer,but hey thats just my opinion;)