Messages

1

Engine + Driveline / Re: Valve cover baffles

« on: April 03, 2016, 01:56:49 PM »

After pondering this on a number of occasions I came to the conclusion that one side of the valve cover is a vent and the other is a heat shield.

If you have removed the plate it's best to drill and tap 5 or so m3 bolts, install with loctite.

2

Engine + Driveline / Re: Diff shopping

« on: November 20, 2015, 01:59:03 AM »

Given the age and NLA status the hardest part will be finding a quiet and leak-free diff. Make sure it's from drivable car or someone who will refund/exchange within a few months.

I went with a 3.91:1 and I absolutely love this ratio! First gear is more useful, didn't notice any performance loss and the RPM sits a little lower when highway cruising.

From stock (4.10) the 3.91 is only a 3.5% difference. Going to a 3.73 would be 10% "taller" and I think it would slow you down, even with a 195/60 series tire.

This might help. http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Differential

3

M42 Reference / Re: Coolant

« on: November 20, 2015, 01:32:39 AM »

Technically any liquid will act as a coolant but the blue coloured "antifreeze" from BMW is formulated to preserve the components of your cooling system. Make sure you mix with distilled water, the minerals and chlorine in tap water can also cause problems.

I wouldn't skimp on the cooling system. Ask anyone who's overheated a BMW, to save a few dollars here is not worth it.

4

General Topics / Re: 1991 318iS resto

« on: October 01, 2015, 08:45:07 AM »

You're offering me a free therapy session? great!

Replaced the transmission a few years ago, it's been working great but I suspect one of the bearings is toast, possibly on the input shaft. It's making a lot of noise in neutral when the clutch is engaged.

As for the engine, I tore it down shortly after buying the car (14 years ago). The only major wear I found was the pistons and timing chain components, I replaced those and rebuilt the head. Motor was tight and relatively trouble free up until a few years back. Long story short it's burning a lot of oil again, ticking relentlessly and combustion chambers are filthy.

It's getting too late in the year to wrench on it. Picked up a brand new Tacoma to keep me happily motoring in the meantime. Tossing between the option of A: rebuilding the motor on my own with a lower mileage block (this could take years) or B: Throwing both the motor and transmission in the back of the truck and driving down to Metric Mechanic. or finally C: getting out of the game completely as the car needs body work as well.

5

General Topics / Re: 1991 318iS resto

« on: September 30, 2015, 01:51:40 PM »

Answer: AIR PRESSURE 

Darky - Thanks amigo.

Neighbours must love you!
I thought it was a great idea to use my leaf blower to keep the tools and woodworking area clean during a summer project. Didn't know it would coat every car, window and patio on the street with stubborn MDF dust. I hope they won't hold a grudge, it was of Exxon Valdez proportions. 

By the way, great looking body work! I hope to get at mine someday, if I can sort out all the drivetrain issues i've been having since I rolled past 160,000 miles.

6

Get Togethers / Re: BMW 613 Ottawa Cruise Sunday July 12th

« on: August 13, 2015, 12:25:54 AM »

Its almost funny its so bad!!


Slowered - did you make Ted fest? I had to work that whole weekend...

I really wanted to go but the weather was awful plus I had the in-laws staying over.

7

Suspension / Re: Ideal Street Alignment? (E30)

« on: August 11, 2015, 10:41:38 PM »

Update:

Going to aim for these settings but it's hard to say what happens out in the road with a 25 year old car. Could be flogging a dead horse.

Front Toe: 0.3 degree, 1/8", or 3.2mm (total)
Front Camber: -1.3 degree (each side) ...can't change this at the moment
Rear Toe: 0.0 or 0.3 (total) ...if I can make up my mind
Rear Camber: 2.0 degree negative camber (each side)

8

Suspension / Re: Ideal Street Alignment? (E30)

« on: August 11, 2015, 10:12:32 PM »

Thanks Rohan! It's so simple once you pointed that out.

I just searched for some alignment e-mails with my shop, looks like I run -2.5 camber up front (have m3 offset bushes) 2mm toe in - in front, 0mm toe in the rear. Car is used on track and street.

I assume the car drives fine with those settings?
How does it feel with the added front camber? I've always heard that reduces understeer. Anything strange happening with the back end without any toe... scrubbing the tires at all?

9

Suspension / Re: Ideal Street Alignment? (E30)

« on: August 10, 2015, 01:29:38 PM »

Found this in the Bentley service manual.
Not sure what unit of measurement they are using? Need to convert to a format I'm familiar with and then most likely adapt it to work with my suspension setup.

Problem with all of this is I can't easily tweak the alignment settings.

10

Get Togethers / Re: BMW 613 Ottawa Cruise Sunday July 12th

« on: August 07, 2015, 09:35:36 PM »

Agreed Norm! It seems that's the caliber of people we have in our nations capital.

11

Suspension / Re: Ideal Street Alignment? (E30)

« on: August 02, 2015, 05:52:07 AM »

colin86325: I checked my guide books, both explain caster/camber/toe but no numbers.

E36-italia: I didn't get a caster reading but it should be slightly over stock. I installed M3 lower control arm bushings, they move the front wheels forward 1/2 inch.
How do I achieve zero bumpsteer? Swapped to an e46 steering rack and e36 tie rods, I have a some ability to shim it up or down but it's currently at the lowest position. Come to think of it I've played around quite a bit with the suspension, not entirely sure how a stock e30 handles anymore.

nickmpower: I think the car should have a neutral stance with the wheels pointed perfectly strait, but I have no idea exactly what happens when forces are applied. That's why I've been looking around for the factory specs.

12

Suspension / Re: Ideal Street Alignment? (E30)

« on: July 30, 2015, 12:19:02 AM »

Well I'm new to this aspect of E30ism and BMW won't give me the factory alignment specs without putting the car on their rack.

So I have been studying the stance of other Bimmers and they all have considerable negative camber and slight toe-in on the rear wheels. Front is more or less strait and perpendicular to the road. I'm trying not to question the reasons for this but when the car is lowered things change quite a bit.

Moved my car up and down today and took some measurements of the effect on camber. It appears the trailing arms are far from linear, you get about 1 degree positive camber for every 2cm the car is moved up, center point seems to be slightly below where my car is sitting. By this logic on a hard corner I should be getting plenty of pitch and roughly 4 degrees negative camber on the outside wheels.

I'm thinking in light of saving tire wear I shouldn't exceed 1 degrees negative rear camber. Maybe dial in more negative camber on the front so I'm not rolling over so much on the outside of the tire.

I have a feeling this is going to be a lot of trial and error.

13

Suspension / Ideal Street Alignment? (E30)

« on: July 27, 2015, 08:21:46 AM »

I can't find adequate alignment discussion anywhere regarding E30's, maybe it's time we talk and possibly achieve something?

Looking for a "sporty" street setting for a slightly lowered and reasonably upgraded car (stock size wheels). Been driving e30's for 17 years, I don't need excessive understeer built in and I don't mind a little tire wear (negative camber) as long as it's holds nice on the highway.

This is mainly for those fortunate to have rear toe and camber adjustment kits (Ireland Engineering) along with front camber plates or the offset hats you can play around with.

I don't trust the suggestions some computer gives me at the alignment shop, my initial thoughts on ideal are listed below.

Front:
0 to 1 degree toe (total)
2.0 degree negative camber (each side)
Rear:
1 to 1.5 degree toe (total) "roughly 1/8 each side"
1.5 degree negative camber (each side)

This is based on my own general knowledge of the suspension geometry we are dealing with here. It appears that under load the rear trailing arms squat significantly and toe in slightly, the front is a little more linear so I gave 0.5 degrees less negative camber to the rears. I find toe in really eats tires and with poor quality roads it can become a handful to drive thought I want a slight toe in on the rear to help around town.

As it currently stands I had quite a bit of negative camber and toe out in the rear, only 2.5 degrees total front camber. Had to buy new tires! Plenty of of roll onto the outside shoulder of the tire and the rears are scrubbed off badly on the inside.

Please post your thoughts and correct me if I've made an incorrect statement.

14

How-To's / Re: Fender Screws

« on: June 01, 2015, 06:25:42 AM »

Pretty sure they are NLA from BMW.

15

General Topics / Re: 1991 318iS resto

« on: May 18, 2015, 09:36:02 PM »

I say nothing compliments a shirt and tie more than scraped up grimy hands.

Did you get the M3 out of the garage today?