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Messages - ten2doyle102

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1
WTB/WTT / SoCal - WTB m42 head in good shape
« on: October 26, 2012, 02:17:18 PM »
I have a good head for sale.  Shoot me an offer or something if you're interested!

2
For Sale / 2 m42s to part out
« on: October 04, 2012, 10:15:18 PM »
The first one is out of the car and most likely has a bad bottom end .  I am not sure on the condition of the head just yet but I am hoping it's ok.  Motor ran great until it just decided that it was time.  Everything is available.  Mileage is about 180k.  All the timing comp is only a few years old.

The second motor is in the car.  Runs well and idles nicely.  It has a COP conversion, JB racing flywheel and the ecu is chipped.  Also has the mess under the intake removed. That motor will be pulled probably in the next few weeks as this is my only car for a bit. Mileage is not known sadly.  I am also going to be selling the engine harness for the COP.  Trans is available along with the driveshaft.  The trans does have a slight rattle so that would be cheap.

This is the newer, working motor.



Here is a pic of the bad motor under the valve cover.



Text nine two zero-213-2786 for a fast response.  I don't get online too often so this is the fastest way.

Make me offers with shipping.  Once I sit down to figure out my prices I'll post that too.  Just let me know what you need!!!!  :)

Thanks,

Matt

3
Lately, my 1991 318is has been acting a little odd.  It runs a bit hot and its idle is rough, but it runs great on the highway and for crusing around town.  However, after my last auto-x, the motor started missing pretty hard under load.  Its quite similar to similar to hitting the revlimiter actually but then it will continue to rev the rest of the way.  Usually occurs around 6k rpm and lasts for split second but happens randomly.  When it does occur, its quite violent.  The whole car shakes!  When the motor is not load (free revving) it'll rev no problem.  No mis fires, nothing.  Car makes good power all the way up to that point where things go crazy...  Starts every time and cruises fine on the highway.  Gets decent gas mileage....  I don't know... its just when I want to get on it that I have this issue and only way up top.

I can try to record it sometime too if that helps.

It does have a chip, probably an ebay chip.  It's also got the COP conversion and as well and a lightened fly wheel.  

Any ideas?

4
For Sale / The Ultimate COP FS Thread
« on: April 14, 2011, 07:55:35 AM »
Any chance I could buy just the hard ware for this?

5
For Sale / The Ultimate COP FS Thread
« on: April 12, 2011, 03:20:29 PM »
Well, I am really thinking its the same thing... BUT the guy must have cobbled it together.  I have found several missing bolts on the car so it wouldn't surprise me.  I just need to know if the plate is supposed to be bolted down or if it just floats in there.

6
For Sale / The Ultimate COP FS Thread
« on: April 11, 2011, 11:21:44 AM »
Hey,

It would appear that the 318is I have just bought came with one of these kits.... BUT its kind of odd how its put in.  Correct me if I am wrong, but the plate is supposed to bolt down....correct?  Mine just has the plate just chilling out and the only thing holding the coils in place are the coils themselves.  Is there a spacer that goes underneath the plate or something?  Also, what length bolts are needed to mount the coils?  Mine has two different sizes...  Two are way long and actually lift the plate off the motor by contacting the valve cover.

I am trying to figure out my bad idle and I am thinking that this probably has something to do with it.

7
Engine + Driveline / Coolant boiling, bleeder hole leaking
« on: April 05, 2011, 10:17:05 AM »
Yeah, I don't know...  It just seems very high in the RPM's to be cruising at.  My speedo is 5-10 mph off on the high side so yeah....  little wheels...  LOL!

8
Engine + Driveline / Coolant boiling, bleeder hole leaking
« on: April 04, 2011, 12:16:47 PM »
Alright, well after a long drive to Blackhawk farms and a hour or so of thrashing at the track and then a long drive back..... car seems ok.  I have to check the coolant level, but it didn't seem to drop much, if any.  Also, did well too because the car is not set up for highway since it was cruising at 3700 rpm at 75mph.  Never overheated though!

9
Engine + Driveline / Coolant boiling, bleeder hole leaking
« on: April 01, 2011, 12:22:15 PM »
Also, when I had the thermostat, the profile gasket felt good. it was nice and consistant all the way around.

10
Engine + Driveline / Coolant boiling, bleeder hole leaking
« on: April 01, 2011, 11:55:23 AM »
I may have spoke a bit too early..... lol.  Its not overheating... but it does seem to be leaking coolant from somewhere... though I can't tell where.  I am going to spray it off and try to find this damn leak.  Its gotta be going somewhere.  Its weird actually....  it loses about the same amount everytime.  I bled the system for about 45 min yesterday and from what I could see... no more bubbles were coming out at all.  But this crap has to be going somewhere.

11
Engine + Driveline / Coolant boiling, bleeder hole leaking
« on: April 01, 2011, 06:53:32 AM »
Ok, well I am going to check that tonight as well.... but I think I got it figured out.  The whole time I think it was just the stupid ground nut on the back of the cluster.  Pulled it out last night and it was unscrewed about an 1/8"....  LOL.  Tightened it back up and its rock steady just under halfway tick.  I put a 92* Wahler in there so that might be why its just a shade high than most I have seen.

Thanks for the help.  I'll be taking a 2.5hour drive with it this weekend so wish me luck.  This will be a good test.

Also, part of the problem was that the radiator cap is really finnicky and if you don't be care it will screw on crossthreaded-like causing it to not be able to hold pressure.

12
Engine + Driveline / Coolant boiling, bleeder hole leaking
« on: March 30, 2011, 10:20:18 PM »
I am not seeing any leaks from anything anywhere.  Its weird.  I replaced the thermostat and water pump today and bled it for a while.  It seems to be better now, but its hard to say.  I am also going to be replacing my cluster with a known good one.  The odo stopped working and the temp gauge moves alot if I tapped on the front of it.  Also, whats a good way to measure the temp manually?  My friend has a laser thermometer to use.... is there anything that I can check it on?

13
Engine + Driveline / Coolant boiling, bleeder hole leaking
« on: March 30, 2011, 10:28:38 AM »
The paper gasket i was referring to was the thermostat gasket.  I know the profile gasket is a thick rubber seal.  Is there anyway to test to see if its bad?  I don't see and coolant residue around the gasket at all....

14
Engine + Driveline / Coolant boiling, bleeder hole leaking
« on: March 30, 2011, 06:35:42 AM »
Also, is the coolant sensor on the m42 radiator the same as a sensor from an m20 radiator?

15
Engine + Driveline / Coolant boiling, bleeder hole leaking
« on: March 30, 2011, 06:33:05 AM »
Sounds good.  I was planning on filling up both hoses first like you stated.  I hope I can get this figured out.  

http://m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9603&page=6

I read through this whole thing last night....


Seems like it was never really truely figured out what the cause is.  If it was a profile gasket, are there any tell tale signs that I should be able to see on the outside of the motor?  I was getting small drops of coolant randomly, but it looked like the thermostat was leaking...  Also, I read about people suggesting to use a liquid sealer along with the paper gasket....  is this a good idea?

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